Wonder Kinder

6a00e5508e95a98833016302cbdf07970d-800wi.jpg

Kinder Aggugini's design C.V. is pretty impressive – Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Calvin Klein, John Galliano and a hefty seven year stint at Versace – but for me his solo own label work has never properly clicked.  It could well be the case that Aggugini's ghost designing prowess at so many houses, has meant that finding his design niche with his own label has been more of a slow burner.  That could just be me though.

That said, eight or nine seasons for a designer is still a relatively short period of time and finally with this A/W 12-3, there has been some clicking action going on between my brain and Kinder Aggugini.  Alright, so I am a sucker for print but it's how he combined his cowboy motifs with A-line school uniform-type silhouettes and traditional Savile Row fabrics that really propels this collection.  On his press notes Aggugini cited "appropriation" as a theme for the collection.  To be fair, what collection ISN'T about appropriation these days?  At the very least, Aggugini is brazen about it and comes up trumps with a print motif that reminds me of blue and white porcelain, vintage 50s cowboy wallpaper and old Hermes scarves all at once. Weirdly, for a collection that's about appropriation, there's nothing here that feels tiresome or hackneyed.  Apologies if I'm late to the Aggugini game but if he's going to be creating more unexpected sartorial mixes like this cowboy winner, I promise I'll be deathly loyal.  

IMG_0007

IMG_0001

IMG_0005

IMG_0006

IMG_9969

IMG_9974

IMG_9983

IMG_9977

IMG_9985

IMG_9996

IMG_9991

IMG_9997

IMG_9999

Ten points for collaborating with Stephen Jones on the Stetson hats (Jones is determined to see us all obscuring our faces under big hats next season) and another ten points on creating these loafers with Dr. Martens that come with a splay of gold tassels.  

IMG_9979

23 comments

  6. I attended the show too and have to admit that my favourites were the dark blue & gold lace dresses, without a doubt not the most controversial thing on show but that’s what I would rescue out of a burning atelier…
    Stef
    x
    http://verystef76.blogspot.com/

  11. I really like this collection and the cowboy hat in particular. Fun and serious. The skirts are so structured they remind me of a neoprene Mary Katrantzou piece.

  15. Love this! Right up my alley. At some stage Susie, I wouldn’t mind asking you some questions so I can complete a special feature of you and your AMAZING blog on my blog-For the love of Audrey.
    Suzi x
    For the Love of Audrey

  16. I love Kinder A. I’ve sold a fair few of his early pieces in the past – when he was working just under the name Kinder – and the quality and attention to quirky detailing is just superb. LOVE those prints.
    Emma
    http://www.stylesequel.com

Comments are closed.