Tomboy Frill

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February marked the first time I had "done" Milan Fashion Week properly save for the previous times when I'd pop over for one day and go back home again.  Beyond the razz-ma-tazz of all the biggies – DOLCE, PRADA, MARNI, VERSACE etc (capital letters required…) – I did find some time to slip off to discover more about Roberta Furlanetto, a label I wrote about a while back, fascinated at their status of sitting as an under-the-radar Milanese label.  I've always wondered whether there is 'more' or something 'underground' beyond the Milanese/Rome house biggies but I've yet to make an investigative query in to whether a 'New Gen' of fashion designers equivalent exists in Italy (Vogue Italia's Who is on next? finalists are a good starting point…).  Roberta isn't exactly a young gun, having worked for Christian Lacroix, creating intricate textiles work for his haute couture creations and she then created her label in 2007 but for me, she does represent a different side to the Made in Italy coin.  Her label has made assured and quiet treads, gaining stockists like Dover Street Market and The Corner, and she plugs away from the glitzy hub of Milan, concentrating on a her own style of textiles-based intricacies that consume her work.   

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In her atelier, I found numerous examples of her experimenting away – cutting, folding, pleating, plaiting, shredding, twisting fabrics to achieve the right effect that will embellish the final garment.  Despite spending hours working out these decorative solutions, Roberta manages not to get mired in an obsessive state of mind where she cries for "More ribbondry!" as she steps back to then piece it together in a sensible semblance…

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I particularly loved this chequered effect where the checks go off into a random scatter which is then replicated in a fragile dress…

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The skill in Roberta's work is not just in the itty bitty fabric manipulations but in cut as well which is evident in this cashmere cape coat (one where your arms DON'T feel restricted) as you follow the line of the curved seam from the shoulders rounding off into the back so that it slightly flares out…

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Simpler, less adorned pieces form a foundation for this A/W 11-12 collection.  Roberta doesn't really do 'themes' and instead covers cornerstone wardrobe bases without pieces looking like pointless filler…

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Her particular way of presenting her looks always contrasts a tomboyish spirit with the simpering frilly girl which is probably why no ruffle ever looks superfluous. 

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Her frilly accoutrements together with her choice of fabrics form a texture riot… criss-cross suede, faux fur boleros, knits with raised reliefs, lace that looks like it's disintegrating into a mass of candy floss – and it somehow all looks cohesively held together into one collection…

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It's all down to the weightier pieces – a cropped suede jacket, a shearling coat with zippers that run up the sides transforming the piece, boiled wool cape and sporty parkas – that bring the frills back down to earth and it's this contrast that makes a decorative dress more enticing.  As though there's more of a 'point' to a flighty cocktail dress when paired with a well-made coat and a pair of flat shoes. 

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Case in point, a black turtle neck underneath this organza frothy dress that looks almost like a delicious patisserie creation does the trick of making it conceivable that I might run about in the day like this.  Yes, I'm wearing salmon-coloured ruffles whilst picking up stuff from Boots.  And what? 

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The showiest it gets is in this gown here which trails the floor but you can bet that underneath is a pair of practical shoes…

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Speaking of, here are A/W 11-12's Roberta Furlanetto's shoe offerings which are again flat and pointy, some with a raised platform creeper-esque sole, and are the perfect accompaniment to the collection, providing solidly planted feet on the ground.

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29 comments

  5. I am indeed in love with that beautiful long dress. It is truly stunning and the coat also. What a talent. I may try a replication of some of the work at the top, plaiting etc. for my Etsy shop, maybe a plaited bag handle might work quite nicely. I do rather much love being inspired by your blog Susie.

  10. Wow..what a designer. Impressed by this garments, specially the long dresses and last 3 shoes.Wonderful making.Thanks for sharing.

  18. If we have one thing is common is our love and support for Roberta Furlanetto {I’ve featured her plenty too} And, I love for the new, emerging, and undiscovered.
    I was suppose to visit her atelier during Milan Fashion Week, but it never happened ‚Äî due to scheduling conflicts. So, naturally I’m a bit green, because she is without a doubt one of the best things about Milan right now. The immaculate details and her level of skills ‚Äî few can match it. I do have plans of visiting her in the Fall, because this is just beyond! But, if anyone deserved a peek it was you, so I’m not that green, because she was in great hands.

  28. Wow the detail is incredible. Weaving the fabrics to create, beautiful unique designs. I take my hat of to them!

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