Neon Newbie

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There were few surprises this RAFW when I vaguely knew how to get around and the schedule was fairly familiar with only a few BIG comeback shows.  I missed Magdalena Velevska's collection last season but since then it seems this Macedonian-born, Australian-based designer has made leaps and bounds since that debut.  Magdalena Velevska has turned to the lingerings of past neon collections (with a smidge of the Jil Sander S/S 11 palette) and has had a go making her own stamp and owning it.  Well, to my knowledge, I don't think anyone has switched off the lights in the finale of the show with a UV light installation in the middle to brightly illuminate the neon dresses (sadly I couldn't turn my camera settings fast enough), a bit of theatrical planning to really take advantage of the colour palette which depending on who you're talking to will conjure any number of things from felt-tip highlighters to Christopher Kane or both.

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Still Velevska had a few other elements jostling around that stamped Velevska apart from just being another one of the neon tribe such as this delicate knitwear…

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Then, just as you think you might be getting collection deja vu, looking up close this monochrome print is in fact made of a lace pattern derived from Velevska's mother's wedding dress and placed into this floral pattern that could also be a cartoon depiction of coral/sealife under the sea…

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Then there's this macrame knit with black abruptly running into hot pink, a piece that didn't feel out of place despite being all by its lonesome self…

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The most oft-used technique that also helped Velevska own these highlighter brights that some might feel overposed to (I however am still trying very hard to make sure neon pink, orange and yellow can cometogether in one outfit…) was this 'point de mousse' embroidery.  Fun face – I'm told by Velevska that this type of embroidery was the first to go into space on NASA's space suits.  Woo hoo!  The moon has seen delicate point de mousse!  Here Velevska has embroidered lines of loops that from a distant look like raised waves that draw perfect symmetry lines down the fronts of models' dresses and tops.  The fact that the lines resemble neat formations of Dylon 3D Puff Paint lines doesn't hurt this neon 'point de mousse' either that sits either on top of the print or on top of the solid neon and black/white colour blocks…

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Layers of pleats are built assymetrically to add movement to the dresses as well as something that makes them slightly off-kilter and perhaps on one level, more complex than a lot of the easy-to-wear collections that have been shown at RAFW.  There won't be any escape from comparisons though and I suppose Velevska will be mindful of that given the number of articles that have emerged in Australian press, accusing designers of being influenced by European/American collections that have gone before them.  Referencing seems to me par for course, especially for a young designer primarily targeting the domestic customer.  There seems to be enoughs legs for Velevska to stand on here that at the very least makes me wonder what she will do next…

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22 comments

  1. Its basically C. Kane’s last 3 collections (for his own line as well as Versus)mixed with SS11 Proenza Schouler…… AWESOME!!

  2. Gorgeous collection, those pink and orange dresses are amazing! Very jealous of you being at RAFW. I’m an Aussie stuck in London for exams and would give anything to be there! Will be checking back for updates!
    xxxxx Mazzi Mi
    http://www.MazziMadeMe.com

  3. Actually love Velevska’s designs. Only problem is, her clothes are impossible to get hold of here. Googled her and her website is down, another site recommended stores where you could buy her collection and none of them have her in stock anymore. Gutted!
    Where would you buy her collection from?
    – WMS.
    http://wardrobeofamillionairestudent.blogspot.com

  4. This collection was one of the delightful surprises of the week. I actually met you very briefly backstage (I admired your Pradas) and you were beaming. I’ll be looking forward to seeing what Magdalena does next year.

  5. Happy I bumped into you briefly at the airport. Not happy I missed this collection! I think I love everything about it. Thanks for this post!
    stylewilderness.blogspot.com

  6. Really loving the colours. The knits are so interesting and I’m loving the pleated skirts

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