Leathered Up

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>> Did Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne just say to his design team "Right, LEATHER.  I want as many different shades as possible.  Run my little Acne-lings and go forth to get me some leather, the more unusual the colour the better!"  Err…perhaps that is too simplistic a thought but nonetheless, this A/W 10-11 collection's main emphasis was on all the leather, a material that is increasingly being taken out of its comfort zone of being made into purely biker jacket, trousers and bag styles and instead we have loose and louche leather that all together have enticed me back to thinking that Acne does indeed warrant some of their prices.  Especially when it's as buttery, smooth and hardwearing as these leather pieces.  I hate talking about pieces that will 'live with your forever' – forever afterall being an infinite impossibility – but these are pieces that are thankfully trend-lite and seem to try and detract any leather-haters from voicing their concerns.  Me? 

I'm of curse in the love camp of leather lovin' and in particular here, the oxblood red and the dusky pink seem to be the shades that get me going, especially in loose cropped trousers that also flare out a bit on the end.  I love that in some instances when juxtaposed with the silk tulle, the leather becomes secondary to the overall texture proving that this isn't a mono-tone collection either. 

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Add some metallic squares and blocks and the leather can only get more interesting…

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Oh and of course a sheer trouser moment is not to be missed off my radar especially when the hem of these sheer trews touch these sculptural wooden platforms that are sort of like if Dr. Scholl shoes were plasticine models and they morphed around (like Morph!) to become the taller, more directional and elegant version of the original clumpsters…

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For comforting clump though, realistically I'll look to these lace-up wedge brogues which has the heel carved into the shoe, another take on the perennial favourite, the brogue/oxford to have come out of LFW, the other being Simone Rocha's 'ghost' wedge shoes…

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17 comments

  1. This is such a beautiful show. The tulle touches on the pants and the clompy shoes are super magnificent. I don’t usually like Acne but this show was really good.

  2. Yeah, I love leather too. That first item looks great!
    Indeed so many pretty and unusual colours!!!
    Thanks for sharing.

  3. Wow, there must be a very low threshold between making a gimmicky moto skirt and making an amazing moto skirt. They really pulled it off! Impressive. And those wedge brogues, mmm, yummy licorice shoes.

  4. Ok, so oxblood leather dungarees might be a step too far for me but the coloured leathers are beautiful.

  5. I absolutely love ACNE, every season I just can not believe how I want every single piece from the collection!! bring on the leather:))

  6. I am officially in the leather loving camp, I love what they have done with this, i just want to see it all in real life and touch it! And as for the sheer trousers, so so beautiful, and the wedge brougues. LOVE. I no my observations are simple and merely repeating what you have picked out, completly agree with your choices though, love the collection. x
    http://peaceandloveand.blogspot.com/

  7. Mmm, I’m not so sure about these. Think I like the traditional use of leather best and I do think it should be made to stay with you forever. To use animal hide in a trendy way seems wasteful and overly decadent to me.

  8. There were some seasons I was disappointed with Acne’s designs, but these clothes look incredible – great designs and super-wearable.

  9. I am definitely in the leather-lovin’ camp as well, and I am especially lovin’ the oxblood cropped overalls, the metallic and leather mix pants, and the blue and yellow skinny cropped pants. The colours are mouth-wateringly beautiful and they look sooooo soft.

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