I Got Sand In My Eyes

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Alright no, I didn't actually get sand in my eyes but I was clouded in a good way yesterday when Nakkna opened Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Stockholm and all eyes tried to make out details in amongst the smoke and sand but instead were hit by shape which incidentally echoes a similar image on Nakkna's website,a silhouette of the trio in abstracted form.  Now that I've done Stockholm Fashion Week, I thought I had gotten into the groove of who I was going be seeing but there have been a few changes which meant the welcome return of Nakkna with their 15th collection.  The trio Camilla Sundin, Claes Berkes and Ella Soccorsi who met at the Beckmans School of Design have been going solidly and soundly, scoring a key stockist as part of Topshop's EDIT selection which of course gets a big thumbs up from me so I can covet their draped shapes in interesting materials…

"NeoMinimalistic, GeoAnatomic and fluid" is how Nakkna (answering as a trio) once said of their aesthetic and whilst parts of that could be perceived as being overly cerebral, fluidity and a 'flow' in their work which has perhaps softened the geometric elements has infiltrated this latest collection…

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The sand in a windswept desert definitely seemed to be the primary force in the first part of the collection where softly printed caftans and tunics with pleat plaiting detail on the sides moved around…

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When pieces were not soft, loose and looking like they would ripe for wafting around in with plenty of sunlight and bare legs, anything remotely tailored was given a rumpled/crumpled texture…emphasised here with 'ropes' of fabric splaying at the shoulders…

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The trio said that the inspiration behind the collection (oh ye common common question…) was 'What you just saw at the show' meaning…open for interpretation then I'm thinking of Ryan McGinley's 'Moonmilk' series of photographs when I start seeing this print combined with the deep camel tones…

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Then enters a more robust section with the introduction of these men in grey with the women following suit in a utilitarian style long shirt seemingly covered in a layer of dust…

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Or trodded upon with a wrinkling device…

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Nakkna's wide trouser leg shape tells me I need some trews that flap around with a heap of volume…

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Finally though, a monochrome vaguely Earth-derived (or is it the sky, space or beyond?) print pervades…

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15 comments

  1. what a super fashion show, i like the gas effect. it makes the dress looks so uber cool
    rchliey.blogspot.com

  2. The long, sand-colored dress in pic 5 & 6 is my favorite. Love the details in the fabric across the chest! Nakkna deserves more attention for sure…

  3. great stuffs.
    anyway really admire that swedish point of view, doesn’t matter it’s fashion or simple living.

  4. It’s a shame that very little empirical evidence is known on this question. I’ve been working on some experiments, but need to finish up those working papers with the results.

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