Fabric Wizardry

6a00e5508e95a988330134805251a4970c-640wi.jpg

When I was still at Dazed, a curious triangular cardboard arrived lying by the filing cabinets and nestled inside, in amongst a mass of shredded tissue paper, was a resin-cast ultra-realistic replica of a dead chicken.  Here's photographic proof of this artefact.  Later that week, some cardboard penguins courtesy of the Dover Street Market x Peter Jensen window display also arrived and chicken and penguins were getting chummy by the rusty filing cabinets.  That chicken was the emblem of designer Omer Asim's S/S 10 debut collection, a realistic and somewhat ridiculous object representative of death.  I've been in touch with this Sudanese designer for a while, exchanging lookbooks, emails and not-well-timed emails.  Asim studied architecture at The Bartlett and then went into the United Nations Development Program.  He then made a turn for fashion and worked under Vivienne Westwood as well as in the costuming effort for the Harry Potter saga.

Omer1

Omer2

Omerj4

Omerj5

Architecture.  Global outlook.  Wizardry.  Those three things are certainly evident in his debut S/S 10 collection above.  Themes aside (the collection was inspired by Kevin Carter's The Vulture and the Baby), the thing that is most apparent is Asim's intuition with creating defined lines within a garment that dictate the ensuing volumes and overall silhouette.  The chicken also turns up as a literal pale pinkish print that from afar could be anything from blushing roses to coloured smoke.  

This collection came complete with trumpeting birds, a defined statement as well as evocative imagery and film.  What follows in the A/W 10-11 collection is a slightly cleaner evolution of the unexpected shapes and lines contouring the body.  The patterns are purposely circular and pod-like which creates the pockets of volume.  We could get poetic and talk about the foetal nuances in Asim's work but from my perspective, I'm more interested in the structural feats that somehow manage to avoid becoming overwrought…

18

2 4

12

16

… as I came to discover when another triangular box arrived at the office.  This time, it was a lighter affair and nestled in amongst tissue paper was that flash of pale pink again but fortunately, it turned out to be a wearable form of this colour…

DSC_0107 DSC_0112

DSC_0108

… a diaphanous organdy creation trimmed with pleated satin-organza that informs the way the dress juts out at the neck and along down the front as well as the back.  Asim terms this shade a 'winter pink' and this shade is echoed in one of the pieces from the A/W 10-11 collection above.  For me though, a flash of palest pink has no seasonal boundaries and right now when contrasted with the slight fuddy-duddy-ness of my mum's old Burberry trench, the dress is tamed, contained and left to stun and shine against the backdrop of the Uniqlo khaki skinny jeans…  

DSC_0115

DSC_0117

DSC_0132

DSC_0136

DSC_0133

(With Burberry trench, Unqilo t-shirt, Uniqlo jeans, Marni shoes)

41 comments

  1. His architectural background is indeed quite visible in his works, and so is his involvement with wizardry and the iconic Vivienne Westwood. As for your dress, it is really a work of art. I would have said more a peachy-pink, even a dusty-pink, rather than a winter-pink, regardless you are right, a pale pink transcends seasons. At first I wasn’t too convinced about the Burberry coat. The outer color was a great addition, what I was more worried about was the inner print. Yet, the more I look at it, the more it makes sens, it picks up the pink nicely, and it also balances the black and dark bej in the shoes.

  5. The dress is amazing, a perfect layering piece for your wardrobe. Loving the Burberry trench too, love that you chose such a classic style!

  6. That dress they send you is amazing, as well as the long black one! And your long trench is also amazing.

  8. Wow Susie, the organdy dress looks so cool with the khaki skinnies and Burberry trench. The way your pair pieces together; it’s so inspiring. 🙂

  14. Oh wow, I really dig his work. That combination of soft cuts combined to sharp pleats really looks fresh.
    And the outfit with the dress is great!

  16. that dress is truly beautiful. such an uniquely edgy grace to it. and nice pairing with the tied trench!

  19. Très beau et impressionnant travail de matières. Je m’exprime en français car mon anglais est très très faible pour ainsi dire nul !!! Merci pour toutes ces découvertes, tu effectues un vrai travail de rédactrice. C’est toujours avec autant de plaisir et d’excitations que je clique à cette adresse, quelle va être la surprise du jour !!! Malheureusement je n’ai pas encore trouvé un blog français qui ouvre des fenêtres sur la jeune création française. Dommage. Merci encore !!!

  24. Oh good gracious I’m in love with that dress that was sent to you! Just wanted to let you know your blog has become a serious inspiration and help for spotting trends ! Thank you

  27. I love everything about this piece, the colour, the sheerness, the pleats, the shapes, its just beautiful. It somehow reminds me of clouds. I also love your Marni shoes ;). <3
    skiepies.blogspot.com/

  31. I absolutely adore the soft, dream-like effect of the satin organza. Love the combo with the skinny jeans and trench, and the colours work well together. Well done 🙂

  32. wonderful beautiful…you are lucky! Doesn’t it feel like it was your birthday when you get a present like this? xokathrin

Comments are closed.