Don’t Box Me In

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STOP!!  HOLD THE PRESS!! (Not sure what holding-of-the-press I'm referring to there…) Sandra Backlund, whose extraordinary knits have been around the internet and press block so much so that her lookbook images may be up there in the collections circulation chart, has not got any chunky hand knits in her new collection.  And…. *draws deep breath* she has used…fabric, NOT knits to create her sculptural pieces.  Do you need some water?  Something to fan you down perhaps?  I may be jesting but when I went to her showroom today, Sandra did tell me some people were quite physically shocked.  

Me?  Actually, the surprise didn't hit me as hard.  Whilst Sandra has made cornered knitwear into her own structural niche and has pushed people's idea of the genre, I never thought she was one of those designers restricted by the medium in the same way that I think people like Louise Goldin would do just fine handling a piece of woven fabric.  For Sandra, it's her shapes in knitwear that have always sparked interest for me and her particular way of seeing how things can interlock with each other.  I'm reminded of interviewing the Meadham Kirchoff boys after their recent dressup fantasy shocker A/W 10-11 collection and they said "Our aesthetic can't be defined by just a few collections!" and for a relatively young designer like Backlund, it's also true that she has a lot more to give than just built up tetris-piece knits, which for her would actually be the easy way out.

This season was therefore a challenge to enter new territory and for Backlund to push herself without the collection manifesting as just another series of out-there, attention-grabbing pieces.  Not that, the A/W 10-11 collection is of course competely without those familiar elements… as illustrated by the piece below which has been created with nylon that has been ribbed to look like the knitted ribbing she has used in the past…

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I love the corset detailing on the sides of this dress…

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The interlocking knits plays out in organza plisse…

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Naturally, knitted pieces are still in the mix and pushing machine knits once again, she has created a frayed texture which is achieved by cutting up the machine knit to reveal rows of flesh revealing holes…

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Sandra's love of the astrakhan texture led her to also developing this stretch knit that ruches up to give the appearance of that familiar black fur.  Apparently this took many an attempt before they got it right…

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I'm longing for the moment when all the elements which Sandra has explored come together to form a complete collection of her full prowess. These small collections, shown privately, allow her to play with all the elements Sandra feels she is capable of and hopefully have paved the way for her to fully stand up and strongly declare her presence in the future.  I'm waiting for a ROAR Sandra… a big LOUD one…

57 comments

  1. Those organza pieces are so frothy and light looking and I think this clearly shows that her style works well with different mediums, though I am still partial to the knits. Her work in general gives me a feeling of “warrior wear”, like you would feel tougher because you were wearing it and the organza and ruched pieces at the end show a nice softer side. I’m also looking forward to a complete collection in the future!
    http://ganymedekids.blogspot.com

  2. We are not interested in photocopy machines & reproduction but only by experimentation & research which are the tools & keys for innovation!
    Where will we be without Sandra?
    Way to Go!

  3. Wow such a fabulous progression, I too am waiting for her to be able to show a complete collection. Also, congrats to Sandra on the attempted astrakhan remake – I’m afraid I just couldn’t bring myself to wear the real thing…
    xx
    Duck
    http://anastasia-duck.blogspot.com

  4. These are just amazing, especially the beautiful organza pleaty stuff. So great to see such innovation with the ripping knit and the astrakhan-a-like!

  5. her eye for structure was what always got me, and whilst i’m a complete knit fanatic and loved her for her input in the area, these are all beauuuuutifully done, i cannot complain at all! that fur effect jacket is a must-have (as in, i must have immediately, sob sob) and those fleshy revealing slots on the dress are superb, not to mention that floaty light blouse. her eye for contour is a mean one! oh how looooooovely everything is.
    http://fanfareforlibrarians.wordpress.com/

  6. The blue dress in the last picture and the corset detailed dress are stunning. Coming from Ireland, knitwear has a special place in my heart, and the holy grail is to find something warm and gorgeous. Sandra has acheived both.

  7. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  8. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  9. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  10. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  11. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  12. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  13. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  14. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  15. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  16. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  17. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  18. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  19. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  20. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  21. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  22. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  23. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  24. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  25. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  26. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  27. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  28. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  29. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  30. Her sculptural shapes and talent for creating exquisite and unusual textures is really what she’s about, no? You don’t just happen upon these things because you can knit! I’m interested in hearing more about the people who were ‘physically shocked’. I need to know, was there vomit? Fits? No, not diarrhea! That’s a mood killer.
    Had she done a line of tie-dyed t-shirts I could see that but there’s so much Sandra Backlund in this!

  31. Wow! The pieces look totally incredible and I am loving that she is using new fabrics! We just decided to try new mediums with our new jewelry collection, so this is just what I needed to see!

  32. WOWW!!! THAT’S AWESOME, stunning beautiful!!!!
    Susie, can you please reserve 10 minutos of your day to answer those questions I sent you? It would be awesome if you could featured in that fashion blogger’s article for the brazilian press…. Please say yes! ๐Ÿ˜‰
    well, let me know marilialevy@yahoo.com.br
    or facebook, twitter or in my modest blog
    marilialevy.blogspot.com
    xoxo

  33. OH my…she has done it once again. As a designer, I find the idea of creating and developing your own fabrics fascinating…it’s such an amazing thing to be able to do, and sets you totally apart from your peers. I think it can only be positive that she is now moving into wovens, as pushing her work even further….ROAR SANDRA!

  34. the astracan imitating pieces (especially the blue dress) were the best in my view

  35. Susie, I just wanted to say thanks for always showcasing the coolest, most beautifully, interestingly, constructed garments, and providing them with the attention they deserve on your blog. You’ve introduced me (in a way) to some incredible designers, and opened my eyes to a side of fashion other than what’s featured on style.com. I can’t tell you how much your blog inspires me.
    Thanks

  36. Firstly I would like to thanks for your nice and for your informative blog. I saw your fabulous progression.Its so pretty and How can i will buy it? you have any new collection please show me.
    thanks again

  37. The pieces look totally incredible and I am loving that she is using new fabrics! We just decided to try new mediums with our new jewelry collection, so this is just what I needed to see!

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