The Gauche and the Grotesque

scherer4.jpg

I came across Scherer Gonzalez’ work first via Mahret at F&ART (aka German-fash bible…) but I had to have the name jogged out of me when I was thinking of suitable Met Costume Institute Ball alternative affair.  Quite simply, Paul Scherer and Constanza Gonzalez’ designs show an atypical side to German fashion that rests in fairytales, fantasy and dreamscapes.  In fact from my first look at the collection, it all borders on being quite gauche/ugly/grotesque…. not positive initial sentiments but somehow, something good comes out of those descriptions.  I’m definitely thinking of the old-fashioned and true meaning of the word ‘grotesque’ being bizarre, strange and fantastic.  The number and quality of techniques and materials that Gonzalez and Scherer have utilised in their collection simply demands respect however you feel about exaggerated butts, yards of shiny fabrics or dramatic-bordering-on-costumelike evening wear.  Duchesse satin specially dyed and hand silk washed to get different effects… zips, straps and ties used in abundance… heightening of the female form… carefully structured curves everywhere…

It’s all so ri-DON-culous (my silly way of saying a heightened version of ‘ridiculous’) and OTT that you go back and forth between thinking it’s very grotesque or very beautiful…          

Furthermore, I’m fascinated by their ‘more is more’ philosophy as an increasing number of new labels that are very wearable and slightly dilluted pop up, along come these new guns who have something a little irreverant to say…      

Scherer4

Scherer5 Scherer1

Scherer2

Scherer3

The deets… 

Schererdeets

43 comments

  1. Wonderfully weird, I absolutely love it all. I especially love the leather jacket and trousers.

  2. ok, this is gonna be the third comment I try to write lol….my internet dies just as I click “post” argh!
    basically the gist of it was that I liked it very much but I probobly wouldnt need any more enhancement in the back area :-/
    -Giselle <3<3<3

  4. All I can say is that although I love avant-garde, I would not want to wear something that makes my ass look bigger than it already is.

  6. It’s a strangely compelling mixture of old fashioned and futuristic, very creative…not sure that it would be easy to wear though. You’d probably need your own personal ladies maid to get in and out of the outfits….or a very understanding bf/hubby etc 🙂

  8. that first pic is the perfect scroll down! I’ve been looking at alternative wedding dresses for smne and that would be an awesome dress.
    I love all the complexities, especially the ass-enhancing shapes! not that I need any more enhancing though…

  9. The last photo reminds me of an 18th century pauper jacket reinvented in the 23rd century, aha. All lovely stuff.

  10. I love the colour palette, I think the neutrals stop the designs straying into ridiculous territory. That bomber jacket is gorgeous.

  12. Adore the the grey/sherbet palette and i cannot stop examining all the pleats, details and drama! I can totally imagine their style working for a stage production… maybe a ballet choreographed by Matthew Bourne. Definitely falling in intrigue/lust.

  13. definitely made me blink, i’m trying to think of someone i could imagine in these wears and i just can’t! i do love how there’s lots of seams and bones, proving intricate design and something i can’t contemplate how you would make!

  14. The first look, the evening dress is very nice but it’s best left to the red carpet.
    Anyone walking the red carpet at Cannes any time soon, haha?
    As for the others, the deets are kinda intimidating and I could just imagine the amount of work on those pieces!

  17. Your blog was featured in a local fashion magazine here in Chile. I dont know if you had any idea. if you want i can send it for u to see it (although its written in spanish of course hehe)
    bye bye

  20. The amount of panels and cuts is mind numbing. I agree that it’s nice to see such detail and workmanship in clothing, as much as it is to take in.

  27. i love this. the way the material sits over the arse looks like armour. Actually, the whole thing kind of reminds me of Elizabeth (the movie).

  28. Scherer & gonzalez is amazing. I would love to marry in a dress like that. WOW hopefully we see more of them in the future

  33. Grotesque, really?? I think they’re just so beautiful. All the curves are perfectly exaggerated.

  35. Oooooo so beautiful this is the kind of stuff I used to look to McQueen for before he started phoning it in. Really lovely to see this kind of drama done in a softer color story.

  40. I absolutely love it. They are beautiful, sculptural pieces. While I may not be able to work all of them into my every day wardrobe, I could see the satin, fur trimmed jacket as an immediate addition. The pants in particular make me think of armour in the style of Joan of Arc.
    With all the time consuming work that has gone into these, I don’t even want to imagine their retail prices though.

Comments are closed.