Cathy Horyn made a comment on the overall mood of the collections at London Fashion Week being decadent, over-the-top and dramatic. Is it the spirit of the current ‘Age of Couture’ exhibition at the V&A (I’ve yet to go but will report laden with pics!)? Is it paying a respect to fashion originals like Isabella Blow that fashion excess was seen at designers like Giles and Christopher (quite literally, there was an excess of ruffles at the latter’s show)?
These factors may all play a part but how does this impact upon London’s streetstyle then? I noticed that the overall level of effort put into outfits was seriously notched up this season at fashion week. Dressing-UP was out in force and there was a distinct penchant for the dramatics. Pale blue Cinderella gowns with mini-white top hats. Heels of the most vertiginous proportions worn with luxurious hoisery. Edwardian dandy looks on guys complete with breeches, brogues and even walking sticks. My eyes were feasting…preying even!
We single things out as ‘dressed-up’ quite instinctively – hats, the way a person is made-up (yes, guys and girls BOTH get in on the cosmetics action), shiny magpie things, exaggerated shapes, historical period features. The list goes on as they all fall under the cateogory of being ‘ostentatious’. The traditional glossies and probably many amongst you, revere the ‘effortless’, the front row editors dressed immaculately in expensive, on-trend but not overly-so, tasteful outfits and the people who don’t look like they’re ‘trying.’. I’ve always had a bit of a problem with these oft-used statements of ‘effortless’ and ‘people who try too hard’. Is it a crime putting effort into an outfit? Is it wrong to give some sort of calculated though to an outfit? Are people like myself to be burnt on the fashion stake for scouring vintage stores for the perfect veiled hat, for painstakingly sewing an extra veil on it and then co-ordinating it with a two-toned dress, matching the fabric colours of the two veils (fuschia pink and navy if you must know…). So that is effort. When worn, it can have attention-grabbing effects. It did take thought behind it. Is that all wrong then?
Unluckily, whilst sitting down at a show (in my Day 5 outfit aka ‘Circus Extra’), behind me I heard two Taiwanese girls (could tell by the accent) who, thinking I couldn’t understand Mandarin, said ‘She’s just wearing those tights to get attention and get photographed.’ I’ll be honest, the words did sting a little and grate the ears. I wore those stockings (why is my hoisery always getting stick I wonder…) because I wanted to add a ‘funny’ element to my black dress, something off-kilter. It certainly wasn’t to get snapped in and if you see the constipated expressions on my face when I do get photographed, you’ll see that I have no love for the camera.
What I’m really griping at here is that the people I’ve been seeing who have upped the level of ‘dressing-up’ and get inadvertedly snapped for doing so, may be misunderstood by others and seen as ‘try-hards’ or ‘posers’ when they could have been dressing to their tastes, their heart’s content.
Perhaps what we need is acceptance that what qualifies as ‘dressed-up’ to most is normality to others. Perhaps our eyes need to be readjusted/retrained into seeing a hat for instance for what it is; a hat and not ‘that crazy accessory that eccentric woman is wearing.’ You might say this is all subjective and dependent on who we are talking about but I know that a certain ‘decorum of dress’ exists and I know people use it to heap judgement upon others. It is no wonder that fashion is feared when the industry have people that people take pleasure in uttering ‘WHAT is she wearing?’ in disgusted tones, yet those same people will happily declare a John Galliano collection as genius.
As usual, my rant has become convoluted, but faced with so many points to make, it can’t be anything but confusing. I guess in my head, I’m thinking that we have nearly reached the point whereby we are ushering in this new mood of ‘dressing-up’ but perhaps we don’t have to call it that anymore when for most, it’s just ‘getting dressed’.
“It is no wonder that fashion is feared when the industry have people that people take pleasure in uttering ‘WHAT is she wearing?’ in disgusted tones, yet those same people will happily declare a John Galliano collection as genius.”
I know! Its sort of hypocritical how some fashion critics barrage people on the street for dressing outside of the box. but when someone with a big name presents a runway show that is just as outrageous and weird, it is applauded as unique.
by the way, your day 5 outfit has got to be one of my favorite outfits of yours. keep up the good work 🙂
In my opinion, fashion is a matter of perception…depending whose eyes are beholding the visual is going to determine if it is a thing of beauty or not. What works for some may not always work for others. That doesn’t make it wrong or right. I agree with you completely in changing the context of “getting dressed-up” to mean the same as “getting dressed”. The best part of my day is right after I put the child down for bed and my “duties” as wife are complete for the day, that is when I get to stare into my closet and style my outfit for the next day. Its a welcomed challenge to develop what I am going to get dressed in for the following day of events, whether or not those events are on a large scale(parties) or small scale(errands). I constantly recieve comments that insinuate that I am over-dressed for a paticular situation(work). In the beginning of my fashion development,I was sensitive to these remarks but as I am evolving, my skin is thickening and my mind is opening. Fashion is a very personal statement and expression, with out ever saying a word. I just want to thank you for this latest post, because you delivered a message that more and more people need to hear…UNCONDITONAL APPRECIATION…..especially in a fashion realm. Those smack talking taiwanese girls were obviously trying to hard to be a part of a world that their mentality wasn’t ready for. Now, having gotten that off my chest….just wanted to let you know that I will be doing a feature on you and your blog in a fashion newspaper developing here in Hawaii. The article will be about fashion bloggers in general but i am going to make mention of how you are a foundation and pioneer in the field. I know how hard it is for you to accept that sometimes but it is what it is so embrace it. FOREVER FABULOUS, JESSE
I think you’ll like this Vivienne Westwood interview. She seems to agree with what you’re saying. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/main.jhtml?xml=/fashion/2007/09/26/efvivienne126.xml
As I was thinking about what to wear for a debate tournament I have this week (yes, my first thought is “What will I wear?” and not, how prepared am I to debate?), I kept trying to find ways to make my outfit look effortless and young despite the required professional dress code. At first, I thought, girls have to wear hose? Skirts must hit below the knee? All shirts must have collars and no wrinkles? No colored jewelry? Even my mother went, Oh, that’s just a little much!
But then I realized that most of my judges would be older men and women. People born at a time was girls wore dresses and only railroad workers, etc. wore jeans. When jewelry was pearls or diamonds, period. When you were judged based not on how different or ironic (damn those hipsters) your outfit was, but on how put together and cohesive you look. Maybe that IS a remnant of a more socially divided time (after all, cashmere sweaters look luxe and lovely because they are, and appropriately priced. Ditto for pretty AND well-made shoes), but isn’t it just as prejudiced to say, “Oh, she dressed up. Who does that? How pretentious,” as it is to say, “Oh, she just rolled out of bed. She’s too sloppy to be wealthy.”
Sorry I just wrote the equivalent of one of your posts, but it quite a lovely topic to ponder. And I for one will be wearing an outfit to my debate tournament that looks like I put enough effort into my look to care about the competition.
Ah, I SO agree with you on the notion of “trying too hard” on an outfit. I find it really hypocritical that people can spend hours deciding on a look that will make it seem like they didn’t think at all, but when the thinking SHOWS you get sneered at. I get the Taiwanese girl-experience all the time, whether it be funny looks in my school hallway or people making extremely backhanded “compliments”. And people never realize that dressing is for fun, not trying to “impress” anyone. If I wanted to do that I’d just wear a plunging neckline or too-tight skirt (like everyone else does).
Thank you for the rant, it sums up perfectly what’s been bubbling in my mind for months.
please tell us that you called out those girls (in Mandarin) on their cattiness!
I confess I’ve used the phrase “trying too hard” to disparage someone’s outfit. However, I’d never describe your looks that way, Susie, as they are carefully thought-out expressions of your personality and utterly unique.
“Trying too hard” (to me anyway) refers to the ladies who lunch/socialite crowd who are head to toe in one designer, making sure you know how much they are worth by their outfits. I think of it as trying to hard to impress, not dressing to please oneself.
I’m gonna go against you guys and say I think “trying to hard” is the worst fashion crime there is. However, I define “trying too hard” differently. It’s not simply dressing up and putting effort into looking nice or interesting. I would never hold that against anyone! When I say somebody is trying to hard I mean they are trying to impress, trying to look rich or follow every trend. There is no original thought in it.
Susie tries. She doesn’t try too hard because there isn’t one certain thing she’s trying to do. She does some trends, but also does totally offbeat things that make it clear she is doing it for herself only. (This is sounding like a Nylon article… I don’t mean to be obsequious.) The girls who remarked that she was just trying to get photographed must be terribly jaded because I cannot explain it any other way. I’ve read this blog for a long time and never thought Susie looked like that.
exactly. this hits home.
it doesn’t take much effort to express oneself in a genuine way. that it’s so often mistaken for the other kind is damned unfortunate.
Coming across someone who touts Galliano as the Absolute Fashion God of the Universe as We Know It is usually a pretty clear sign that he or she has had little to no exposure to great big world of fashion. It’s undeniable that the guy’s done great things but it’s equally undeniable that he’s designed some absolutely heinous garments as well. >:D Anyways, I think people who try to hard are those whom dress in a way that completely contradicts their lifestyle (i.e. the blue-blooded daughter of a CEO dressing like a hippie? or Japanese scenester?). It’s important to experiment with different styles but don’t pretend to be someone else…
Wow, those two outfits make you look super-tall… like a model!
You dress fantastically; don’t be discouraged.
As for the Taiwanese girls, I’m embarassed, as I am also Taiwanese.
I think anytime you dress outside of the comfort zone of others you will be labeled as “trying too hard”. This to me is just like dumbing yourself down in school. I do try hard darn it! I want to succeed, do well, be smart, look good/unique.
And I love my hats, gloves, shoes, etc. I get the feeling that others think this is all I think/care about. I just ignore it (or embrace it – much more perplexing for them) and wear the stuff I like.
I just need to do that more!
Luv
Poochie
shoedaydreams.blogspot.com
I totally agree! And if you have this problem in London, imagine how one way minded people are in Romania, I don’t even have to dress up, I might as well add one thing that captures they eye and I’m done, everybody comments, and OH, in the same language, behind my back, making sure I hear them.
You know, you should consider yourself lucky because you live somewhere, where you see others “dress-up” too, but here everything is just bland, jeans and belly bearing t-shirt, or sweatpants kinda style.
I want to wear all my vintage dresses and hats and feel timeless. At least I wear whatever I want at home:) kinda sad, no?
I’m too tired for a serious answer so I’ll just say I love those outfits and give me those shoes or else!
trying too hard is completely subjective. “She’s trying too hard” is often uttered by girls who lack style or an appreciation for anything outside of their comfort zone.
Just because you wouldn’t wear it doesn’t mean you couldn’t appreciate it.
I have been stuck in a fashion rut for a few months, so this post is totally hitting home for me. I was shopping for groceries and noticed a very stylish young mother: stripped tunic dress ala Phillip Lim, black wedge shoes and a fantastic green python bag. While her outfit was sort of trendy, I appreciated that she was dressed in a cute way rather than track pants or plain black slacks and a sweater like I was. I was definitely not trying at all which is worse than trying too hard.
A big loud “ditto” on what diana said. I’d really like to not give a shit what others think–honestly I dress for myself, I really don’t care or want compliments or attention…just keep your comments and questions to yourself, thanks. I resent having to “explain” why I dress the way I do (and I’m not even a fraction as bold as you) to strangers, coworkers, and yes, even friends.
Yes, I completely understand. I often get told by people that what I am wearing is far too dressed up for going to college, or going into town or whatever. My mum often asks me why I don’t leave some pieces of clothing for best. but I have to wonder why?! I buy clothes to wear, and if they’re stuck at the back of my wardrobe waiting for a special occassion, then what’s the point?!
Silly stuff.
Btw, I went to the Golden Age of Couture exhibition on Monday, and it was absolutely incredible. You need to set aside a good couple of hours to have a look around. Unfortunately, I only had about 30 mins, due to the fact that my college left us 4 hours to look around three galleries/museums. Highly ridiculous! Anyhow, the only downside to the exhibition was that no photos were allowed to be taken! I was slightly disappointed.
what is wrong with trying hard? nothing!
even if you Were secretly hoping to be photographed. It doesnt mean that you are trying to assert sartorial dominance over anyone or dressing ostentatiously to show condescension. I put effort into my appearance too because I appreciate it when others do the same thing. I like people watching and when people dress up it is like art on the streets. It is like creating a great poster or admiring a beautiful building, a form of self expression and an appreciation of the penetration of art and aesthetics into every sphere of life. Everyone likes to dress differently. Fashion is based on variety, and people who criticise the effort others put into their appearance or the personas they create do not understand fashion. Fashion is more complicated than most think, of course people can live without it. BUt then again, you could live without art too. See where im going? Let everyone dress as they want, because no matter where they come from they are trying to embody some sort of dream or desire. They may be confused, but at least they are living.
sorry for the rant. This is convoluted but I hope my point has come across. Living in australia – where fashion is synonymous with casualness doesnt help either.. although I think casual is beautiful too. To each their own, variety is everything.
ok. – i think ill take this to my diary..
I like the 2nd pic.
The key point here is that the girls behind you were… behind you! There’s got to be a dollop of seat jealousy in there too?
I think you’re too nice to have openly said something but I wish that you’d at least have given them a sneer or a whack with your handbag?!
And re dressing up: Victoria Beckham tries too hard. You don’t – you experiment which is the most fun way to dress up! Keep it up! (I know you will…)
Mrs F x
bleh… pointing out problems is so much easier than coming up with solutions. i don’t know why it is, but the human mind can always find something to complain about… which is a trap because looking for beauty only creates, more beauty.
these girls, only express their insecurity and lack of creative integrity by saying such catty comments. it’s to your credit that you are able to conceive of attire that people notice anyway.
and by the way… style bubble is such a great blog, and you don’t need anyone else taking your photos, you are your own force.
and one last thing… i love your use of tiers and layers… fantastic!
What IS it that is so disagreeable about hosiery? My friend wore red tights and someone asked if she was preparing for christmas festivities. Trying hard, i believe, is when someone attempts to look interesting or unusual but doesn’t pull it off with the aplomb people such as you do.
I think the fact that you put together outfits just for fun in your own home, and take pics and then kindly post them just for OUR fun proves without a shadow of a doubt that you’re not dressing “just to get your picture taken”. I think that you and all your readers understand the root of the best part of fashion, namely the challenge and creativity used in putting together and new outfits.
Shame on those girls for being so catty.
I think you are trying too hard. Sorry, but less is more. Too many layers, too much thought put into it. Its interesting, but 70% of the time not stylish, too much going on…you are unique, but thats about it. Sorry, no brown nosing from me, just my honest opinion.
You know, so many people said Isabella Blow was “trying too hard” during her life and they worship her like a goddess now that she’s dead. Screw other people and their opinions. Dress like every day is a party. Life is short. Why should your epitaph be, “She was perfectly tasteful (and unmemorable)”? Anyone can do a LBD and tiny diamond studs. Yawn! Fashion and the arts in general are moved forward by people who dare to push the envelope. Just do what makes you happy because you know can’t please all of the people all of the time anyway, so why bother?
Thanks for all the comments and your insight on what constitutes ‘trying hard’. I’m not a fan of mis-appropriation and I don’t use phrases lightly. ‘Trying too hard’ is one of those that are thrown about MUCH too often without real thought…
Moda Maga: There is indeed that dichotomy in fashion which strikes me as bizarre!
JESSE: Powerful comment there… I think put more succintly than my post! UNCONDITIONAL ACCEPTANCE is indeed what I would hope for but it does seem unlikely…
Eva: Just read that today! It doesn’t of course surprise me that Dame Westwood is disgusted at the blandness of today. Of course I’m not disgusted but I would like people to readdress what they deem as attention-seeking.
Cameron: Good luck with your debate outfit! That is an interesting thought though that criticising people for thinking too much about one’s outfit is perfectly acceptable but calling people lazy is seen as cruel…
Brooke: No worries for resummarising my rant… I’m glad you feel the same!
nadarine: Was too stung to retaliate (and my spoken Mandarin is pretty piss-poor…)
iheartfashion: ‘Impress’ seems to be a keyword when talking about ‘trying too hard’ and I like your definition…
Fiona: Thanks so much… glad my persona comes across through this pink and green blog. Again, the notion of trying too hard and trying to impress seem to go hand in hand…
Soleil Noir: Ah – another defition – contradicting clothes with lifestyle. I’m not sure this works 100% of the time. I dress in styles of all sorts that don’t necessarily correlate with my own lifestyle…but then I guess my lifestyle is also ramshackle as well…
hurlax: I’m not tall at all… I actually thought the 2nd outfit made me look stubby but I wanted to wear it anyway…
Princess Poochie: How does one detect another person’s comfort zone though? Another good point…
diana: I have more respect for you especially when people jeer you openly… stay strong!
WendyB: I wish I had more of those shoes to give….! Your last comment….RIGHT ON and SPOT ON!
Sandra-Mendoza: I don’t have problems with ppl not trying at all with their outfits – ppl can do what they like! It’s when ppl piss on others for doing their own thing that I get angry…
Celia: Yes, no explanations needed. Unfortunately, this blog has made me feel like I have to explain my decisions, back things up and I never intended for it to be that way…
buttonsandstars: No photos? Gah… goddmanit! Yes, there really is no point in saving things for a special occasion…who knows when that occasion might arise?
Marie: Rant much appreciated – variety is vital and I think you have the right attitude towards this…
Mrs F: So that’s why ppl were carrying such big patent studded bags – they’re for whacking ppl! Nah…had a teensy clutch with me – no chance!
Lady Coveted: Can I call you my blog-buddy as I really appreciate your support! Thanks for pointing out that this could be connected with a natural instinct to find fault…
Susan: Red tights are superb…. and thanks… I don’t really care about pulling things off with aplomb as long as it makes me happy.
Angie: I do see my posting photos online as a way of getting across ideas rather than saying ‘Here is me, look at me, me, me me….’ It’s me sharing my thought processes…. nothing more!
Dezmond: I don’t mind a difference of opinion. My question to you then is how you define this box of being ‘stylish’? I feel like increasingly, this box is becoming smaller and smaller so that it eventually is unattainable. That isn’t too much of a concern to me as I dress to please myself and not to try and get into this box but I fear for others who do wish to get into this box find they fall short and that causes other issues to ensue….
These comments are so interesting I had to comment. Nice reply to dezmond, I agree that people have different settings for what’s stylish, and I guess it’s the same with ‘dressing up.’ I think people comment on ‘trying too hard’ because they think you believe you look great because you’ve obviously put so much effort in and so they want to put you down because they don’t feel the same. In a perfect world people would see dressing as an expression rather than a judgemental factor and let things be. At least they probably didn’t purposefully mean for you to hear the comment? But maybe we don’t want that to happen, is a bad reaction better than no reaction?
Baby doll! Those shoes! Whose shoes?! WANT!
I’ve been guilty of the ‘trying too hard’ bitching on occasion myself, so I welcome the opportunity to re-evaluate just what I mean when I say it. And after thinking about it, I’d have to say it’s ultimately all about pleasing yourself. I definitely don’t think Isabella Blow or Anna Piaggi are try-hards in THAT sense, because for them it was and is about an expression of their personalities, or even just the way they felt that morning as opposed to doing it so everyone else would notice. If I were to be absolutely frank, it isn’t bad to want a little bit of appreciation for the thought you put into getting dressed, either. You’d want as much if you cooked a bunch of people dinner, wouldn’t you? It’s ultimately about putting yourself centre stage as opposed to dressing with the first and foremost intention of being trendy or whatever.
I’ve never gotten the ‘trying too hard’ vibe off you. Maybe I’ve disagreed with the results of a sartorial experiment once in a while, but it’s never as straightforward as “trying hard= bad”. It’s a very mental thing, I guess..
Obviously you try hard because you are passionate about clothes. You clearly spend a lot of time considering what to wear and how to put things together.
People place too much emphasis on looking ‘effortless’ which is nearly always seen as more stylish than trying hard. Rare is the person who can look unique/quirky/original, or whatever you wish to call it, without effort – in fact I have never met a person like that. Trying hard is NOT a bad thing. If I wasn’t so damn lazy I’d try hard too!
I don’t know … I think with most art, when the effort shows, the work isn’t entirely successful, and the same can be said for fashion. It’s when the parts come off as an inevitable whole that I think most artists themselves are satisfied with their work. Frankly, I was thinking when I glanced through the London street shots that the outfits did look too calculated — and that was just my aesthetic response, not a personal gripe against the wearers. If the point is to have fun, then so be it, more power to them. But the result tends to come off as kind of clumsy, like a self-consciously arty movie by someone who hasn’t bothered to learn much about craft.
AMEN
I agree with Susan, WTF is so bad about interesting hoisery? It’s hardly that obscure and yet I always get mixed comments on my pink or purple tights.
I personally only feel half-dressed if I haven’t “dressed up” with sufficent imagination. I love being creative with what I wear – I can’t draw or paint so clothes and makeup are my form of visual art. I love seeing other people making an effort as well and I think it is always better socially to be overdressed than underdressed – you might get compliments for the former but you won’t for the latter.
Well Put!
what’s wrong with looking “calculated” or “trying too hard”? i actually think these types of people look much better than the people trying to be effortless(looking).