There are those obvious films that are always referenced for having the best costumes and I think we can always guess the usual suspects. Well, I’ve seen all those usual suspects but over the weekend, I managed to catch a film that is probably the most stylishly executed film I’ve ever seen without having those ‘fashion-in-film’ moments that makes the likes of Breakfast in Tiffany’s, Moulin Rouge, Funny Face oft-referenced in the fashionable film discussions. The Conformist (Il Conformista) directed by Bernardo Bertolucci in 1970 based on the novel by Alberto Moravia stunned me in both the story, cinematography and attention to detail with regards to style. I won’t delve too much into the story and the all the philosophical themes that play out but it’s basically about an unwilling Fascist, Marcello Clerici (played by Jean Louis Trintignant) who has been given the mission of assassinating his former professor.
I’m a little ashamed that I haven’t seen this up until now but thanks to the trusty BFI, I now have clips imprinted into my mind that makes me want to buy the DVD and screencap the whole thing. I would use the word style as opposed to fashion when talking about this film as it isn’t that the clothes that the characters wear are purely aesthetically perfect and that is it. It’s the interplay between the styling of the characters and the surroundings and the uneasy tensions created by scenes that make the clothes all the more striking. Filming in 1970, though they get the period of the 30’s-40’s spot on, there is this rather attractive 1970’s ‘tinge’ cast over the period clothing that I rather like. For example, Dominique Sanda who plays Anna Quadri, the professor’s wife is seen wearing loose flared slacks and a turban which seem like quite contemporary additions. Her character contrasts well with the more girly/classic looking Stefania Sandrelli who plays Marcello’s wife Giulia.
There are meticulous costume necessities everywhere and symbolism cast within that. A perfectly cut silk sleevless shirt with an attached scarf serves to make Giulia vunverable looking as she reveals her past to Marcello. The fox-heads and animal print on the furs that Giulia and Anna wear as they walk about shopping for dresses at Jacques Heim (an early example of Parisian ready to wear…) representing the tension between the two.
Alas, screenshots and detailed images are hard to come by but I‚Äôve done my best…
Hopefully YouTube will set some of you hunting for the DVD or catching at the BFI (trailer here) if you‚Äôre a Londoner…
The dance scene between Giulia and Anna is beautifully set up to a) show off the seductive qualities of their dresses and b) the still-stylish but provincial costumes of the other dancers to serve as a contrast.
Marcello and Giulia embrace in her apartment. The scene lets in light in a stunning way bouncing off from Giulia’s black and white diagonal striped dress.
The final assassination scene where Anna’s all beige outfit of a tight knit dress, ankle boots and turban is fitting to play against the dramaticism of the events.
Assasination
I agree that movies are great fashion statements. I personally love older movies with classic style clothing. There is a lot of chic in them, something that you don’t see that often in every day life.
Great post susie, your blog is the best fashion blog ever, but you already know that… 😉
For some reason lately I’ve been more into the ’70s version of ’30s/’40s looks than the real thing . . . I think it just looks a little less severe and easier to pull off. Thanks for the recommendation!! It looks lovely.
Bertolucci films always have amazing costumes, though Last Tango in Paris is remains my favourite..
looks like an interesting movie! i will make sure to check it out
I love it when they focus on retro, classic looks. I love this peice by Meghan Fabulous…it’s cinematic, like a black and white movie, but with hip, new style. I love trench coats!
http://www.meghanfabulous.com/meghanshop/fabcoat.html
Thanks for another really fascinating look into the art of style (as distinct from fashion). I haven’t actually seen The Conformist but I remember Bertollucci’s 1900 (Novecento) also having wonderfully evocative scenes with the same fascist (and Art Deco) era interiors and clothes…the men’s suits as imposing as any power-dressing from other decades. I’ve always enjoyed the way much design of the ’70s seemed to loop full-circle back to the ’20s; Bowie could have walked into any Weimar nightclub and they would have totally “got” it.
I’m not familiar with this film, I’ll have to check it out. Thanks for the post.
i didn’t know this movie at all. so beautiful. i will have to go & find it 🙂
Oh Jean-Louis Trintignant!!!!
He is one of the finest actors from France. A truly brilliant actor! I have been seeing a lot of movies with him.
Another wonderful and stylish film with Trintigant would be Vivement Dimanche by the great Truffaut. Fanny Ardant was so sophisticated and stunning in this one…