Bigger Fish

In my round-up on Business of Fashion about MBFWA, one of the initial run-up thoughts of trepidation surrounding the schedule was that there weren’t enough “big” names to bolster the fashion week.  One omission was particularly glaring.  Dion Lee – arguably Australia’s biggest designer success story at the moment, already showed his mainline collection in New York, where normally it would be the central headline draw of MBFWA.  It’s worth reminiscing about those heady sun-filled shows at Sydney Opera House five/four years ago when Lee was beginning to debut and really caught our attention as a red-hot one-to-watch.  He’s well on his way to becoming much more than a one-to-watch with his international ascent, an established second line, a newly launched swimline and a first notch store in Sydney (with Melbourne to come).

Therefore it was high time to give his second line, which makes up around 70% of his business, a decent show.  It certainly wasn’t a second-best or second-rate show from Lee and in fact was still a highlight of the week despite the lack of theatrics or stunning venues.  That’s because the clothes spoke directly to the audience.  It made you want to shop and wear pronto.  Simples as that.  I’m not a huge fan of immediate pre-order and tend to want instant gratification in purchases but here Lee’s pieces jumped out at your credit card.  There’s a reason why Lee doesn’t call Dion Lee II a “diffusion” line.  There’s nothing lightweight about them.  Twisted shirts, jackets with twisted elbow cut-outs, sports-striped basics and yes, even the little waistcoats done up as belts all felt solid and looked like cornerstone pieces.  Sure, it’s down to styling but it’s nonetheless persuasive.   There are little nifty design features about every piece that makes you want to wear them over and over again, as demonstrated by a blue sweater with cross-over cut-out straps in the back (currently available in black or white) from his first collection of Dion Lee II.  I’ve turned to it time and time again and I have no idea why.  That’s the sort of wear you’d want out of a twisted basic.

 

A peek into his first store in Sydney’s historic Strand Arcade and it was the second line pieces that I immediately made a beeline for.  Then of course, saturated colour, sharp prints and pattern cutting detailing took over my attention span as Lee’s mainline pieces constrast starkly against the concrete, mirrored and raw wood interior, designed by Kelvin Ho of Akin Creative.  Inside the dressing room, you’ll find yourself looking and getting lost in a lit-up infinity mirror installation, created by artist Jason Sims.  If you’re trying on Lee’s architectural lines, trompe l’oeil prints and intricate pleating, then the reflections are bound to be mesmerising.  I did fully intend to sensibly stock up on will-wear-all-the-bloody-time line II pieces given that they’re somewhat harder to find in the UK (Lee is looking into ways of expanding the wholesale business of line II abroad) but neon lines got the better of me and I opted for a criss-cross grid wrapover skirt, that looks a little like a deranged printer cartridge colour test.

Worn with Topshop sheer tops in blue and green, Ryan Lo pink camisole and Christopher Kane belt and sandals