Mouki Bolthole

“I wanted to create something small, personal, simple – bringing together unique discoveries from around the world” – Maria Lemos

Shamefully, it took an exhibition about 18th-20th century Grecian attire at the nearby Hellenic Centre (more about that later…) before I’ve even stepped foot on Chiltern Street.  Nestled behind Marylebone High Street, it’s a street that seems too well-heeled for the likes of my stumpy trainer-clad feet.  It’s all quiet good taste displayed in stores like Trunk Clothiers and the Monocle shop.  With Andre Balazs’ new hotel opening up on the site of an old fire station, the street will undoubtedly get more feet passing through, but the sole reason for a detour after yer’ visit to Daunt Books has to be Mouki.  Opened last year, it’s the labour of love of Maria Lemos, founder of Rainbow Wave, London’s elite fashion showroom represeting the sales of labels like Peter Pilotto, J.W. Anderson and Marios Schwab.  Mouki, named after Lemos’ daughter, has nothing to do with her sales showroom but rather it’s a lifestyle haven of all the things she has come across on her travels.  Its “un” fashion-y quality is precisely what makes it so lovely.  The interior of the store was designed by William Russell of Pentagram, who put in place a number of Victorian and Georgian features like encaustic geometric tiles, weathered iron display units and fireplaces, giving the two floored store the feeling of someone’s home that just happens to be filled with fine things.  The moments of whimsy in the embroidered cushions and cards by Coral and Tusk, which I’m now intently obsessed with, add to the vaguely lived-in “rough luxury” that Mouki is promoting.

There is a quietness to Mouki, demonstrated by the beautiful paper cut-out artwork by Tahiti Pehrson, that’s currently on display.  You could be mistaken for thinking this is all a bit overly refined and polite but I dare you not to be charmed by its idiosyncratic selection.  There’s a pleasing Japanese angle with a good lot of Sacai Luck and well-crafted clothes that rest heavily on quality rather than quirk like 45 RPM and Arts & Science.  Seamless and smooth leather goods Isaac Reina and folksy bags by Wendy Nichol are chosen for their tactile feel rather than brand recognisability.  Same goes for sunglasses by Bruno Chaussignand and Garrett Leight – opticals from France and L.A. that reflect Lemos’ well-travelled taste.

In fact, most of the brands were new discoveries for me, especially on the jewellery and beauty side of things, a real strong point of the Mouki.  The jewellery cabinets on the ground floor are filled not with in yer’ face statement pieces but jewellery that you’d never take off.  My personal favourites were the stacking rings by ethically-minded jewellery Paris-based label Jem, different weighted clean-line bracelets by Le Gramme or uniquely shaped bangles by Fay Andrada.  Since I’m a self-confessed beauty dunce, Mouki has enlightened me with hard-to-find skincare and wellbeing brands such as Susanne Kaufmann and Rodin as well as niche and specific perfumes from Olo and D.S. and Durga.  Candles San Francisco-based Austin Press and Postalco notebooks complete the gift-y elements.

For Lemos, this is a bricks and mortar experience that isn’t likely to enter into the e-commerce sphere and surprisingly for me, I’d be inclined to agree with that line of thinking.  This is a shop for touching and smelling, senses that are not yet catered for by the glint of a computer screen and I hope, never will be.