Girls Allowed

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I didn’t get properly excited about the Marc by Marc Jacobs (henceforth to be known as MBMJ) show until I spotted these posters dotted around the Meatpacking District, hailing Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley’s reunion as the new creative director faces of Jacobs’ diffusion line.  According to Vogue.com, neither Hillier or Bartley had any idea who was putting them up but clearly someone out there (secret gesture from Jacobs himself?) has got a lot of love for this Brit girl duo.  Let’s recap here and remember that hazy vaguely teen epoch when Luella debuted her seminal “Daddy, I Want a Pony” collection in 1999 and then through those early years of blogging when I, together with a group of like-minded readers and bloggers would lose our shit over ensuing Luella collections and cried collectively when she stopped her label.  Then there was talk that Mulberry was like the “new Luella”.  Or that Carven was like “French Luella”.  The Luella outlet store loitered around for a bit longer at Bicester until that also closed.  She wrote a book.  She was having a quiet life in Cornwall.  That was that.  But, that did not quell the hardcore Luella-ites.  There is no new/French Luella, as there is but one.  And so she has returned to our consciousness once more, teamed up with pal Katie Hillier to form a strong Brit contingent at Marc Jacobs HQ.

That initial excitement ramped up a few notches when Alex Fury of the Independent went to do a sneaky peek as he’d be missing the show, and reported back saying “You will love it!”  What can I say, I’m a predictable book.  He got it in one.  We entered a pier building right by Manhattan Bridge and found ourselves in a plywood built skate park (apparently there is a real skate park nearby).  The set wasn’t supposed to give away the theme but instead, provide a reiteration of youth, as a background note to what was an elevated Marc by Marc (ooops…sorry, still getting used to MBMJ) show.

I came to Marc by Marc, too late to remember its early millennium days, when it felt fresh.  I was part of the Marc by Marc generation searching it out on eBay and finding a slew of knock-offs from China.   Let’s be honest.  MBMJ was always cute as a button and it didn’t often veery away from that remit, which was fine for its growth in new markets.  That the high street got savvy and started to do Marc by Marc … well… better than Marc by Marc was perhaps to the diffusion brand’s detriment.

What Bartley and Hillier achieved then was an impressive reboot.  They apparently had seven collections in mind before they had even started (Bartley has had plenty of time to think and accumulate on her sabbatical away).  That could have made for a confusing debut.  Instead though, seemingly disparate elements came together just so – it was stompy oddball fun.  For the mixer and remixer girls out there who doesn’t shy away from emo plaid slash giant hara bows slash skate slash motocross slash ski.  Oh wait, that’s me!  Not to brag or anything but hold up, didn’t I try to make motocross happen, and lo and behold, it did?  For Bartley and Hillier, it wasn’t about simplistic themes revolving around action sports though.  They just wanted to give their girls swift movement, the freedom to bounce about in their trainers/snow boots/Buffalo-esque hybrids.  I know I use that “h” word a lot but that’s the summation of fashion today.  If you can’t invent anything truly new, then you have to mix things up unexpectedly.  Illustrator Fergus Purcell added credence with his skate/bike sticker style graphics and slogans and Judy Blame put his own spin on jingle and jangle to headbands and bandanas.  “Revolution”, ” Twist”, “Bunny Hop” and of course “MBMJ” – sure, you could call it Insta-bait but when it looks as cool as it does here, then why analyse.  When swathes of sharp knife pleated skirts paired with chunky bikers emerged, that’s a nod to the Marc by Marc of yesteryear.  Still, the transformation was evident.  I will be loitering around the MBMJ (admittedly, it doesn’t roll of the tongue quite so easily) store and seeking it out once more.

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25 comments

  5. Really liked the electric vibe of this collection too. As a earlier fan of Manga some of the looks seemed to come straight from the cultish Akira, with their bad boys bikers aura!

  9. I agree with you: Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier seem to have made Marc by Marc better than Marc himself, compared to the past few years anyway. This collection stays true to the line while being very fresh and new, unlike the last few collections which were nice, but getting a tad stale. Also, the motocross references made me think of you, ha! Looks like this motocross thing’s going to happen after all!

  12. Marc by Marc Jacobs was one of the first brands I connected with… years and years ago.
    But then it faded away for me.

    I’m glad to see this – it might not all be my cuppa, but I love the feel of the collection and there are some pieces I see myself wearing – and that doesn’t happen often!

  16. Wow, your an amazing blogger. I am a final year university student and I’m doing a fashion show. I need a fashion expert for this years summer trends. Would be interested in participating?

  17. Patterns, textures, colors, models, I´ve never seen something like this, very unique collection full of creativity. Love the purses, very chic!

  18. Great coverage, fabulous write -up. But it’s like, so sad, because that girl in the first picture looks rather ill. I may be the only one thinking this, I may not be. It was a major distraction from the clothes. And she is not the only one.
    I read that guardian interview with Katie Hopkins where it emerges that she is completely emotionless and never cries. So I am wondering if this applies to fashion as well. As in, people don’t see the models, they see the clothes. And it doesn’t matter what the girls look like, they’re just a cog in a factory….
    Nothing is going to change any time soon, and many people don’t really care, so it isnt going to make a difference.
    Just a thought.

    1. Hello! I was just wondering if you realized that these models are most probably being paid a heck of a lot of money, and no-one is making them be models, except themselves. No-ones forced them. Just a thought.

      1. Oh! I didn’t know that!
        So it’s ok then 🙂

        This is truly revolutionary! Let’s forego all CSR, ‘cos the status quo is, well… here to stay!

        I for one am sick of seeing zombies. And because of the likely ethical issues involved in the manufacturing, I’ll be taking my custom elsewhere as well.

        Moving with the times an’ all.

        G’day to you.

  20. Great post, and even better pictures! Also, love the orange fur coat- looks amazing. I was wondering if you could do a post about the Topshop Unique show? Fabulous work as usual Susie. x

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