Going Helter Skelter

Going Helter Skelter

"What happened in the end, for the show, just wasn't the collection I was trying to make, in almost any respect.  I don't really know what to say about the collection you all saw."  

Elle Collection AW 13 is the magazine that keeps on giving and as I keep delving into it as a resource when pondering the collections.  Yes, SS 14 shows may be about to kick off but I'm actually snuggling into AW 14 vibes.  Multi-season brain mode is switched on and ready to go.  One particular quote from EC that stuck with me in particular was in Alex Fury's feature piece on Meadham Kirchhoff where Edward Meadham rues what their "Helter Skelter" AW 14 collection didn't turn out how he wanted it to.  A search for perfectionism underscores his verdict but also there's a feeling that he's bristling at the sudden idea that this was the season that big wig editors and journalists suddenly turned around and declared it to be their best yet, heaping hysteric praise upon it.  They declared that the duo had raised the bar, upped their game and produced work that was finally palatable to their minimalist and well-heeled tastes.  

"The reaction (to the show) makes me more depressed, honestly.  the people who apparently liked it before, who said this was their favourite – obviously, you didn't like it before," Meadham carries on in the light-shedding interview.  Well, I might be just go out on a limb and say that no, this wasn't my favourite Meadham Kirchhoff collection but that I can recognise it because it excelled in another regard.  In truth the real story here is that Ben Kirchhoff and Edward Meadham pushed on and evolved.  Just as there exists the film trope of the Manic Pixie Dream Girl, so it is that Meadham Kirchhoff have created a Manic Meadham Kirchhoff Girl, since A/W 2010 when they began their "A Chronology of Women" collections.  It's a style trope based on shallow readings of their collections – pastel frou frou, overt decoration, glitter, stickers, more is more is more.  Other designers and brands following Meadham Kirchhoff in their wake have adopted this Manic Meadham Kirchhoff Girl as their muse.  A veritable tribe exists in London who subscribe to this adorn and express approach in their manner of attire.  They might whizz past you in a blur of marabou, lace and all-out Kawaii expressionism.  And they genuinely don't give a shit what people think, something which both Kirchhoff and Meadham wholly advocate.  All over Tumblr, you can see trails of glitter stickers, symbolically attached to Meadham Kirchhoff images, with teens hearting them, loving them and thoroughly pledging aesthetic allegience to all things MK.  

If it sounds vaguely like I'm disparaging the Manic Meadham Kirchhoff Girl, you've got it all wrong.  I've got my MMKG moments for sure.  Pulling out pieces from my wardrobe for a journalist today, she remarked, "My eyes literally can't adjust to all the colours and textures you've got going on in here."  More is more is me for sure.  That said I'm able to recognise the need to change and develop and Meadham Kirchhoff's AW 13-4 collection, whilst yes ticking those more "commercial" and "wearable" boxes, also showed a different side to their MMKG.  Dare I say she is now "chic"?  Urgh.  I can see Ben and Ed cringing at such a notion.  According to Fury's piece in Elle Collections, they were trying to explore the "pursuit of perfection" at home – keeping things tidy and baking nice things.  If that seminal S/S 12 collection underlined the idea that wearing sickly pink and girliness on your sleeve was still a form of female empowerment, then Helter Skelter takes ownership of domesticity.  It neatly chimes in with the current foodie obsession and series like the The Great British Bake Off going stronger than ever.  All the more need then for slicked black latex wipe-clean surfaces and pinafore/apron detailing.  

Better than evolution though is the collection's emphasis of Meadham Kirchhoff signatures that go beyond the MMKG visual trope.  That signature involves painstakingly magnificent construction as always, seen in the pin-tucked chiffon dresses and well-tailored tweed jackets and prim uniform dresses.  Even a pointed collar edged with broderie anglaise on a velvet dress is treated with deep respect from the duo.  These are the things that mark out their couture-on-a-shoestring-resource approach.  Where Meadham Kirchhoff go from here will always be intriguing, whether you're a MMKG or not, if you have a deep appreciation for unabashed beautiful quality.  














































Leave a comment
  1. Jana H.

    2013-08-28 at 8:56 PM

    I love the last looks, the white ones, it reminds me of very old fashioned gowns, or the long shirts people used to wear for sleeping. They look so beautiful! Same for the black ones with the white laces on the neck, for example, I love this! Some of the dresses i would put them on for my tango argentino dances.
    It’s the first time in a loooong time I see something different, kind of classic and original in black!
    thanks a lot!
    Jana H.

  2. Jana H.

    2013-08-28 at 8:57 PM

    And by the way (I know, already commented once)… the long gown that’s in a light color, a little yellow but not beige… it’s so 30s, tell me it’s not perfect!!!!
    Jana H.

  3. Natalie Anne Bourn

    2013-08-28 at 8:57 PM

    What a stunning and unique collection.

  4. Sophie

    2013-08-28 at 9:02 PM

    Just beautiful. So neat and crisp, the quality is stunning.


    2013-08-28 at 9:08 PM

    Delicious craftmanship. Stitches of pure poetry.
    Thank you Susie for a breath of fresh air every single time.

  6. Angelique Jennifer

    2013-08-28 at 9:49 PM

    Some of the pieces make me think of an old Chanel collection, but I can’t remember which collection it is…

  7. Nicola

    2013-08-28 at 10:31 PM

    Love this, so stunning and unique. The details are perfect.

  8. Leslie

    2013-08-28 at 10:53 PM
  9. milex

    2013-08-29 at 12:45 AM
  10. Sul Gi

    2013-08-29 at 5:03 AM

    Oh……It moved MY HEART!!!!….How can I say….All I can say is…..BRILLIANT.

  11. Patricia g.

    2013-08-29 at 7:25 AM

    Amazing style! Not maybe for my town hahahahaha

  12. Anastasios

    2013-08-29 at 7:30 AM

    It’s painful being hopelessly talentless! Ugly is not creative.
    Sorry to be so mean but that’s my opinion when I saw those images… and those shoes…

  13. The Fashion Fraction

    2013-08-29 at 7:35 AM
  14. cloe

    2013-08-29 at 9:05 AM


  15. Denisa

    2013-08-29 at 12:19 PM

    Interesting collection. Great day.

  16. Elisa Taviti

    2013-08-29 at 12:25 PM

    Really amazing!!!
    xx Elisa
    My Fantabulous World

  17. The Provoker

    2013-08-29 at 2:55 PM

    The more I stare at the shoes, the more I’m actually taking a liking to them (I still am so into those ballerina cake flatforms two seasons ago). It’s commercially creative, and I hope that with this new collection, people can see the craftsmanship and not just the ‘craziness’ and that Ben and Ed would start selling better as I know commercially and online, they’re not very wide spread as opposed to their peer st.martin graduated designers. All those details are stunning, and I see some couture sewing and tweaking elements especially in the tailored jackets. I’m impressed! <3
    xx The Provoker

  18. Ches

    2013-08-29 at 3:45 PM

    THIS IS A FASHION TAKEOVER!! The luxurious brand Mado Luzayadio is coming out. After working with high brand designers. Such as Louis Vuitton, Celine, Maison Martin Margiela, just to name a few. The unique Mado Luzayadio is making its mark to the fashion industry. Check her facebook page and if you like what you see feel free to LIKE the page. You heard it from me first. Be aware!!

  19. Jane

    2013-08-29 at 5:53 PM

    Love it all! Add some unique vintage too! https://www.etsy.com/shop/JewelryOnVintageLane?ref=si_shop

  20. Like__Enchanted

    2013-08-29 at 6:37 PM

    Top cool your post of the day !
    Love, unicorns and glitter on you. <3

  21. Juliane at Modern Mural

    2013-08-29 at 8:58 PM

    Love all the fine detail in these pieces. Definitely feels like an old, Spanish painting… those long gowns are amazing.

  22. pourquoi moi?

    2013-08-29 at 9:47 PM

    I love your blog, its very cute!!!!
    kisses fron Spain
    New post: http://pourquoimoi.es/pourquoi-irene/

  23. Rebecca

    2013-08-29 at 10:03 PM

    I love Meadham Kirchoff! This collection is beautiful.

  24. shop vouchers

    2013-08-30 at 4:32 AM

    All of them are so amazing. I really want to have one.

  25. Matilda Munyard

    2013-08-30 at 9:04 AM


  26. Chocolate Rose Style

    2013-08-30 at 9:05 AM

    Chocolate Rose Style

  27. Ashton

    2013-08-30 at 2:44 PM

    Really extravagant

  28. Beautiful Things

    2013-08-30 at 4:49 PM

    I really, really like this! Very whimsical. Just wish I could bloody afford it, lol!

  29. Medusa

    2013-09-21 at 4:46 PM

    Where can we buy the items featured in this show? It doesn’t seem like a lot of them were ever produced/are able to be bought. I am particularly interested in the shoes. Please help!

  30. Abigail B

    2013-09-25 at 7:09 PM

    This is really something.
    I’ve followed MK since their first collection in London. I was entranced by the haunting, romantic quality of their work, and the layers of detail and research that goes into them.
    No, this isn’t my favorite collection, but it is the first collection where I’ve thought,” Wow, I want to buy that”, as opposed to,” Wow, I want to look like that”. I saw individual pieces more, and they didn’t get lost in “the look”. I think this might me a welcome change for MK.
    And to Edward Meadham, there is nothing wrong in simplifying your vision. I know they are all about, as you said,” more is more is more”, but sometimes less IS more.

  31. Jung T.

    2013-11-03 at 7:54 PM

    wow, a have not been this excited by a line in so long! beautiful!

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