Smock Frock

6a00e5508e95a9883301630633fac2970d-800wi.jpg

Smocking /Ààsm…ík…™≈ã/
noun
 [mass noun]
decoration on a garment created by gathering a section of the material into tight pleats and holding them together with parallel stitches in an ornamental pattern.

There are some words that give me sheer unadulterated blips of joy when I roll it off my tongue and "smocking" is one of them.  It's partially to do with what "smocking" actually physically produces, as seen in this Rue du Mail S/S 12 dress, which I've hugely enjoyed wearing, just so that I can say "This is a smocked dress."  It's also to do with the word itself.  There's the association of kinkiness – smocking rhyming with stocking.  Then again, it could be repressed kinkiness, as seen in the heavy smocked garments of Medieval yesteryear.  Either way, it's all good when it comes to the gathering of fabric with intricate stitches hlding them in place.  

Rue du Mail's dress here, which features tight pleating with rows of ornamental stitching in the shoulders and a criss-cross pattern running down the bodice in a looser formation, is by far the most beautiful example of smocking I have in my possession.  Excuse me whilst I get this pun off my chest, but it's smocking hot.  There are precarious moments within the stitching where threads look like they could come loose and the frock might become duly unsmocked but I've been keeping a beady eye on it to ensure that it's smocking goodness is in ship-shape order.      

IMG_2850

Img6263d
(Photo from Couture Caddy)

IMG_2846

Susie+Bubble+MBFWA+2012+13+Lisa+Ho+Backstage+tJhFB74kh5ll

IMG_2849

A preoccupation with surface detailing has of course always been key to Martine Sitbon's work at label Rue du Mail and so experimenting with this age-old technique and adding contemporary twists and turns to it shouldn't come as a surprise.  S/S 12 was stuffed full of delicious moments where exposed thread and fraying edges are tactile positives rather than flaws.  

IMG_4522

IMG_4523

IMG_4495

IMG_4486

The smocking developed into criss-cross gathers of fabric for A/W 12-3 and the appearance of smocking was also mocked up (mock-smock?) in instances of complex embroidery.  Smocking aside, Sitbon also takes the amateur string art we all did when we were five and applies that to a real garment with lengths of yarn looping in vertical lines, forming blocks of embroidery on top of sheer black tulle.  Sitbon's skilled hand in fabric manipulation needs to be appreciated on a regular basis and thankfully, I've got just the right bit of smocking in my possession to do so.  

IMG_4332

IMG_4334

IMG_4339

IMG_4277

IMG_4287

IMG_4288

31 comments

  1. “Robes a smock” used to be for posh, nice little girls when I was a child in Paris, and as such my mother loved them and my friends would find me so uncool for wearing them. But things have changed. The girls are now probably wearing boring polyester black office trousers, and I’m thanking my mum for giving me an appreciation of smocking! Your navy is dress is so cool.
    Elisa
    Wandering Minds fashion
    http://ourwanderingminds.com

  5. I am off to do a smock project on my over-apron type thingy I am making.(For Ziggs)
    Brilliant timing just when I need some additional inspiration.
    Takes time of course but I have plenty at the moment and the weather in Cornwall is stormy as hell . . ..

  8. Hi Susie!!it’s an amzing collection;)
    and difficult to realize i think;))
    you always doscover amazing fashion thinks!
    kiss,
    Amy
    THE FASHIONAMY BLOG

  9. every photo is so exquisite! I always admire designers that innovate their design through beautiful construction. and your dress is amazing as well!

  14. Between this and the Fela Kuti post I want to live in bizarre textiles! Fun Fact: Smocking was not always just an aesthetic practice.

  20. What an exciting collaboration! I get nervous meeting new people too, but for a beautiful girl dress like this, I think I could get over it!

  21. Sitbon designs are beautiful, i love the mix of materials and their effects -it never looks too much sophisticated but rather crafty.
    Virginie/
    Style Reload

  22. This is a fabulous collection of smock-frocks. Smock-frocks are great for the summer, the lightweight material is just right for displaying some fun-loving summer spirit. Summer smocking is smokin’!

Comments are closed.