Hulme’s Home Run

It's that time of year when I come home from fashion month and find it altogether inadequate because my suitcase, overflowing and spilling out into my teensy tiny hovel is making the place look like a right pigsty.  Therefore stepping into designer Sophie Hulme's home and studio to view her S/S 12 collection was an envious experience seeing as she has an amazing house, both in construction and in interiors.  I didn't want to invade her privacy by going all Homes & Gardens on her but let's just say her cavernous mews house in Highbury stuffed with collections of Japanese toys, glitterballs, Space Invaders-decorated walls deserves to be Selby-fied.  Not sure why the thought escaped me to snap away at her home but trust me on this one, Hulme's home is certainly telling as to the way she designs‚Ķ

Her display of Japanese toys or a set of antique scales for instance relates to these jewellery charms that she has been producing each season as a solid memento, with each trinket evoking a childhood memory.  For S/S 12, she's produced a golden biro pen lid that should stop compulsive pen lid chewers like myself from indulging in their habit.

Hulme's latest S/S 12 collection is admittedly compact but she's gearing up for a bigger autumn winter collection that will include specialist knitwear and shoes for the first time.  After all, Hulme decided to strip down her collection to concentrate on outerwear and bags a few seasons ago so it makes sense that she would revel in heavier autumn winter seasons.  Still, that doesn't mean this S/S 12 collection should be skipped over. 

Her bags of course that have become recognisable Sophie Hulme staples continue to flourish and vary up in shapes and now include a plethora of shoulder bags, a rucksack, more streamlined professional briefcase bags as well as the signature tote, all complete with that sheeny shiny hardware.  Apparently there were four of them spotted in unison at a London Fashion Week show front row which just goes to show how much toting her bags have done thanks to being stocked at Selfridges, bStore and collaborating with ASOS.

She's introduced a delicate embroidery that like her metal plating fixtures that she places on her bags and her apparel, is a more delicate way of conveying an ode to craftsmanship.  Made in England is still very much high up on Holme's agenda but she has conceded that if something can be done better elsewhere (such as this embroidery done in India), then it is also worth exploring.  I loved the fact that the embroidery is done in a way whereby you can't see any of the coloured thread stitches on the underside.

Stripes and shades of pistachio green also lighten up proceedings…

Hulme's strength still lies in the outerwear pieces where she literally shows some metal in smaller riveted brass bands this time across the shoulders of leather jackets and dresses.  Leather hoods and sleeves and paneling tally up with Hulme's emphasis on leather goods as well as beefing up a trench coat or a parka.

There's a sense of grounded reality to Hulme's clothes, that has been consistently built up over the last few seasons and fortunately, it means her clothes and her bags are getting increasing on-the-streets visibility.  Hulme has got some exciting projects such as a collaboration with Globetrotter coming up which will only serve to make her case for interesting craftsmanship even stronger.