Urban Lingerie

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Now there's a snappy phrase in the title there that press releases love to churn out for a highly memorable bitesized chunk.  That said, without going into long polemics, overreaching prose and longwinded back stories, sometimes it is as simple as those two words.  I've arrived in Paris a day earlier than I normally would for one reason only.  

Anthony Vaccarello, with whom you may be familiar with if you're a regular read of the blog, as I've been tracking his work since his early days (he also happens to be a very close friend… yarsh… nepotist alert) presented his A/W 10-11 collection as the first 'show/presentation' to kick of Paris Fashion Week. Being on-schedule for the first time is of course a whole kettle of fish from doing more private showrooms but the static presentation at Palais Royal was most definitely still intimate enough for the throng of people to get up close and personal with Anthony's scope of "urban lingerie".  At least I hope they did get up close and personal to really inspect all the details that Anthony had worked into each piece, playing with various opacities of black, going for a subtle texture contrast that isn't immediately detectable unless you start to touch.  Once again, these are feats of craftsmanship that I know for a fact Anthony worked his socks off, making because for him, an idea is only half-baked if the finishing doesn't back it up.  Hardware has come off the lapels and instead have become giant necklaces that share a geometric symmetry with the clothes.

Having seen the patterns for these pieces, everything is done by strict-ruler precision giving everything a sharpness that actually for the first time, isn't completely untouchable.  The sculptural florals of his A/W 09 collection may have been an ask in terms of wearing and those giant gems of last season could also have done some serious physical damage but take these ensembles apart or as they are and these are more open to instant-wearing and slipping into.  Or at least for me, it's my kind of apparel for "slipping into".      

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You know how much I love backs…. well, when they're this good, they really deserve shots of their own.  The one on the right in particular takes the biscuit…

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Lou Doillon seems to think so too as she was so enamoured with his work, she very kindly agreed to model the lookbook where I think her own spirit fuses well with that of the collection…

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(Photography by Julia Champeau)

Honestly, I could *tear* up a little but that would be sad and pathetic considering it's only the first day of Paris fashion week.  I'm crossing my fingers for Anthony on several accounts and next season, it will be veeeeery exciting and I'm incredibly grateful that I've been able to track the progress until the point where probably blog posts like this one will stand redundant against the mountains of hyper-high-end-press.

38 comments

  9. These are exactly the kind of sassy little dresses I like. I’m going to keep my eye out for Anthony Vaccarello.

  12. love the unique details and the metal pieces. The outcome photos are amazing.

  16. This is like vintage lingerie meets rhythm nation era Janet Jackson… and somehow it works! Very interesting collection. I like the lookbook pics too. The model kinda reminds me of Jane Birkin : ).
    -SarahJayne

  17. Genius. I love.
    Susie, you’re a superhuman fashion queen. You have dominated fashion month; I was at LFW for 4 days and went home weeping with fatigue and sore feet. Have really enjoyed your blog recently…have fun in Paris!
    Imogen Eight

  22. The way he uses panels is incredible! And the variety of fabrics within them is so interesting… I love the back of the dress that has the chunky hooks and eyes. What a gorgeous detail. I’m positive that it will go down extremely well.
    Clare x

  24. I think this is the best interpretation of the ‘underwear as outerwear’ trend that I’ve seen thus far. I like that the pieces are very ‘femme fatale’ and don’t give the appearance of vulnerability that many items following this trend do. The styling is also great – the cigarette and the tattoo reading ‘Marlowe’ especially (although the tatto could be real…)
    http://girlonahottinroof.blogspot.com/

  30. Ahh, these runaway friends… But you were there from the beginning and that counts! Lou seems to be the perfect girl to show his beautiful structured & sexy designs. (I haven’t been on your blog for few days and now I have triple as much to say… chatty, I know.)

  31. breathtaking. divine. thank you for giving us these photos,particularly the closeups on the mannequins(better than on the model)- I felt I could almost touch these creations. How rarely is a close-up as rewarding as the whole view? it’s what makes these garments beyond RICH.

  33. Ah! Am styling Alice Dellal in a week, can anyone tell me who represents him? Would like to call in some SS10 stuff…

  35. Gorgeous craftsmanship, i appreciate the ability to transform such materials into out of this world visual delights. Oh, and black rules!

  38. Its great posting .Every women want show herself as her favorite celebrity. Bit I think that Sex appealing based on what you are wearing & its mainly based on brand and its brand image and USP.Comfort level to branded cloths have the work which leads to high research on fabric & styling.

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