Let the MAAAAAAA Action Begin

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My coverage of the London College of Fashion MA show on Thursday, is a little on the late side but I did treat myself to a non-wifi environment for the weekend as well as hopping it along to Stockholm for their fashion week (Dagmar show starting in about….twenty minutes… ).  I have just about enough time to bring you ramshackled collages and condensed thoughts.  Seeing as there is however a fair amount of information on most of the students (though sadly not on the ones I rated the most…) on the students' LCF profile pages, I'd advise you to do a bit of clickety click click to get any actual CONCRETE information…

Young Li Lee – He scooped the 'runners up' prize for his immaculate tailoring but aside from form-fitting 40s inspired dresses, what attracted this deserved prize-winning collection to me was the swathes of satin ribbed ribbons which were knotted together in a sort of loose macrame style, embellishing the dresses and sometimes informing the structures of the pieces… I liked that on top of these supposedly ladylike and prim and proper affairs, there are these loopy, satin 'snakes' that are sort of unexpected.

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So Ra Kim – Well, this had me written all over it and I did rhetorically ask my friend "Is it REALLY predictable that I like this collection?"… lemme see…. hyped-up pastels that are almost fluoro, Mickey/Minnie Mouse ears, a bit of metallic thrown into it, some odd proportions, weird marbling effects that look like hypercolour t-shirts, a mix of unexpected textures….yes, yes and YES.  *Hangs head in shame*

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Jin Joo Ma – With this collection, Jin Joo Ma was exploring the ideas of 'mefale'…male and female all mixed up which explains the balance of hard and soft which I loved.  What struck me though was the mix of materials that gave this rigid appearance (the glitter 'cardboard' and the faux leather) which were then softened by oodles of chiffon.  Meadham Kirchhoff has planted the idea of rigid glitter card garments in my head and now Jin Joo Ma has reinforced that. 

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Sven Hoppe – This menswear collection bagged the Collection of the Year Award and in my mind, was probably the most well balanced and complete collection out of the lot… the standouts were the treated blazers that incorporated some kind of painted latex and marbling.  You can't see here but on the trouser cuffs there are also these twists at the sides that change the shape of the trousers ever so subtly.  As with most menswear collections, it's all about those ickle deets. 

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Other Admirable Deets…

Wouter Baartmans' peter pan-shaped fur collars… hopefully they're detachable for adding to everything and anything…

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Nicole Murray's layered oyster/nude satin ensemble that has touches of Prada/Balenciaga about it…

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Eliana Dimitrakopoulou's take on 'ghetto' furs which were actually really beautiful in person given the amount of colour gradiation work done on these fluffy beasts…

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Merve Tuna's collection had bundles of fur-related shock factor in it but I think this oversized bag was the most effective BOO piece…

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As you can see… a lot of the students were going a bit ANIMAL mental… Sophie Condie injected a lot of huge big bird-style feathers into her collection.  I love the combo of the blue and the dusky pink here in this jacket…

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(All crappy catwalk images taken by me and all good backstage images taken by Morgan O'Donovan for Dazed Digital)

57 comments

  10. Goodness Sven Hoppes’ treated blazers and So Ra Kim’s line… (So Ra means ‘seashell’ in Korean, Jin Joo means Pearl, now isn’t that quite the appropriate ;)) Sadly LCF graduates are always underappreciated because of CSM’s limelight, this needs to change in the future.

  11. Wow!! Thos are some really really REALLY talented students right there. I especially love the feather jacket and So Ra Kim’s collection.

  13. So many amazing pieces! Thank you for posting all of these collections! There was something familiar about Young Li Lee’s line, and I realized that the ribbon effect is very similar to what the Argentine designer Tamando does:
    http://www.tramando.com/ns/home.html
    For the last couple of years he’s played with volume in a similar way.

  54. i`m sorry but i don`t like it…especcially the pig bag…discusting…who will do that for fashion, hurt an inocent animal only for po it in your precius bag!…no no no.
    post me bag…jaja..sorry but i`m not dure if your post it`s going to be nice…
    PD: i was just being honest…

  55. I liked that on top of these supposedly ladylike and prim and proper affairs, there are these loopy, satin ‘snakes’ that are sort of unexpected.Thank you very much for that information. I liked your blog, the topic is very interesting and I would love be more aware. I am a person who loves me true independence and his blog seems very interesting.

  57. There’s some more youngsters creating an interactive installation at the Trafalgar Hotel. that are sort of unexpected.Thank you very much for that information. I liked your blog.

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