The Flanders Fashion Institute showroom in Paris continues to throw up names that I want to talk about. Unlike a MAHUSSIVE showroom like Tranoi or Rendezvous where a selection process is required, FFI’s selection is always spot on and of course far more concise, showing about seven or eight designers every season and demosntrates the best of what Antwerp Royal Academy has produced. It is not often that designers go from specialising in menswear and then turning to womenswear and more often it is womenswear designers who then expand into menswear. However, Demna Gvsalia, who wowed people with his menswear collection at Antwerp, has decided to cross over to the darkside (sorry guys!) and presented his first womenswear collection for S/S 09.
It’s undeniable that there are Martin Margiela influences in his work; the shapes for instance and those shoulders. However, Demna has taken to womenswear like a duck to water and has appreciated that a certain something more than shapes is always welcome. The oversized embellishment in the belt, the frilled leather and satin details making black much more interesting and then there’s that print. The print, which works superbly in the context of over the knee Puss-in-Boots (I’ve finally found Puss-in-Boots boots that work for me…), tights, dresses and jackets….the painterly floral speed print just seems to add a crucial dimension to the collection. Demna is also keen on keeping his clothes atelier-made only – i.e. made to measure and customised for the customer, pushing for a revival of haute couture in a more contemporary sense. Perhaps he saw that menswear already had the made-to-measure element down to a pat and sought to do the same in womenswear, hence his change in direction.
It’s always a pleasure to read your blog and discover this emerging and talented designers.
I saw that impressionist-inspired dress up close in Athens Fashion Week! So beautiful, and the models had amazing solid black eye make-up that kind of undid the girliness of the flower print. Amazing!
Unfortunately that dress in the only photo of the Demna Gvasalia show in my post for that day of Fashion Week:
fashionarchitect.blogspot.com/2008/10/afw-workshop-day-5.html
All the other pictures turned out too blurry. The irony!
wow its so encouraging to see upcoming designers as talented as this! these pieces are excuted perfectly and actually wearable too.
I really like the boucle zip miniskirt, and I would love the frilled leather clutches if they were a bit shorter.
definitely seeing the margiela influence but im loving his take.
I’m reminded a bit of Thierry Mugler, too, with some of the shoulders I see here. The print is perfect, and the leather has me in a lather.
My eye is drawn to the ruffle-y shoes.
Hello’s,
My brain is baffled (in a good amusing way) by the diverse structures very *exciting* , another aspect I really adore is the square… (no their circles aren’t they? Sorry I tend to always highlight the damn obvious, hehe!) tiled background of this photo its just so perfect against the various sharp and soft forms of the garments; Stunning.
Kites & Bobbins…
Prettyneons x
thanks for always introducing new and inspiring designers to me (and all of us)!!
the structure and silhouettes are somewhat what we’ve seen before yet a closer look proofs to us that his collection still has some personal elements
nice collection 🙂
I could only wish he still does menswear because I rather like his aesthetic particularly that menswear collection of his that you shared!!!!!!!!!!!
I don’t like it mainly because I don’t see it as something that is particularly new or innovative. Quite frankly it bores me. I’m too lazy to elaborate more though…
What incredible pieces! I want tie-dye slouch boots now. The shapes are just fantastic, and I also like that quilted zipper skirt and those rufflelined shoes are very original!
Thanks for the tip, good good stuff
Love the shapes, and that colourful print is to die for!
Ooh, my heart skipped a beat over several of the pieces above! The simplicity of the blue top/dress, the gorgeous floral prints, the slouchy boots, want want want!
this is a very beautiful collection. interesting, challenging and wearable at once.
I too love the blue dress with the tall slouchy boots, and I love that little cape thing.
The print work is interesting. Like the quintessential leather pants/boots combo as well.
I can see why he would do a WW collection, as I think his mind is more set to WW, looking at his MSW collection. However, I feel he has to translate his MSW view into WW more, which will end up with a more suprising collection than the WW collection he did now. Although I like the aesthetics of the collection, I do not find it very ‘new’ or really ‘his own’….
I’m not too sad he changed to WW tho… didn’t like his MSW stuff for men
i just love the shoulderpads and colors.. it’s so right.
this year, i’m going to paris… there’s no way i can miss it again.
wow those prints are so vibrant it’s like they are moving…
fabulous looks! lovin all the thigh high boots and watercolor.
I love that blue dress and the prints!
The colorful boots are amazing! Is it possible to actually buy them anywhere? Though I bet they’re quite expensive.
this makes me happy. 🙂
Oh god – those blurred flower shots were such a rippoff of Erdem’s spring summer 08 range. Or I wonder if they employed the same textile designer to whip up the print. Sorry. They are far too obvious NOT to be noticed.
i think this website just translated ur post and claims that it’s their ORIGINAL!!!!!!
http://pop.zoshow.com/fashion/26379.html