Jolly Jolibe

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I’m starting to compile the list of shows/presentations that are on my hit list for coverage as I’ll be doing the four week show round come September and for New York, Jolibe is definitely one of them.  The designer behind this three seasons-old label, Joel Dias worked for Helmut Lang for five years.  Not that that is immediately apparent when you look at the AW08 collection of Jolibe.  There’s something in the sharpness of the tailoring, the linear attitude and overall strength that bears similarities to Lang but added to that is a delightful appreciation for textures and a clever use of colour.  The collection isn’t cohesive in palette but there’s a continuity of richness.  I’m glad the images from the Blogspot website (blogs as label flagship websites… not a bad idea for the tech un-savvy) are quite large as the close-ups are needed to make everything stand out.   
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I thought I had found the perfect bit of purple pleated goodness in Miu Miu’s resort 09 collection but this one might have knocked the Miu Miu off from the number one spot.

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Soft structures aplenty…

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Perfect camel coat alert! I don’t even like the colour camel but something about those undulating curves on the front makes this very alluring…

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I love this take on a one shouldered top with plenty of structure injected into it…it does look quite DIY-able…

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My favourite dress out of the collection… the mix of knit, sheer organza and shiny PVC blows me away.

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36 comments

  1. I love it all, but I really want those fingerless gloves. They’d be perfect with my full skirted 50s housewife dresses.

  2. Holy crap! I haven’t seen a designer’s collection that echoed my own tastes so perfectly since, well, ever.. I’ve just downloaded half these images for my own sewing inspiration, and then I realised their site has loads more. And I love NEARLY EVERYTHING they’ve done! I just wish there was some more information about the label on their site. Thank you for posting this! They’re definitely one I’ll be watching closely…

  3. I love how the pieces are quite structured, but there are still some loose and flowy elements in there.

  4. wow, that camel coat is amazing…. and i thought i had found my coat obsession at nicole farhi, this is another level of stunning!

  5. *sigh* That purple dress and that camel coat…excuse me while I wipe the drool off my keyboard.

  6. I like the way the details look tacked-on. I worry that they’ll crumple and lose their integrity, however, upon sitting down.
    But they are beautiful.

  7. fantastic! havent seen such a promising designer in a while. though i cant agree with all the design details but i love his style overall

  8. That blazer has possibly the most perfect shoulders and the most perfect sheen I’ve ever seen in my life.
    xx

  9. Fab post! I’m loving these looks.
    Do you mind me asking where you find out about the designers and their collections?
    I’m not exactly down with what’s on the catwalk but its something I’m interested in so I was wondering if you had any good websites/magazines etc for me to check out?
    Loving your blog as always,
    -Cheryl x

  10. I don’t know if anyone else gets this, but to me this looks very ‘fashion student’. Not to say I don’t love it but i could see some of the pieces as part of a graduating show.

  11. Susie I notice you always home in on the really “studenty” obscure designers,who over design, with ever detail chucked in. The dress you like is just such a no no for me, interesting combo, but ultimately its doesn’t work, not balanced, yes, very statementy…but ultimately catwalk piece. I know you want to namecheck “emerging talent”…but alot of the designers you feature can’t survive in the real world and 80% will/have folded…

  12. I’m not too crazy about the palette (unfortunately that, to some extent, keeps me from appreciating the workmanship) except for that sort of flower bud-wrap-around bodie sort of dress there which I find absolutely fascinating and fabulous..

  13. Badam, that may be true with regards to the labels that I write about folding or being too studenty but not to point out the obvious…
    A) I’m writing about them because I personally would wear jolibe… Style bubble denotes my own ‘bubble’ from which I write about my discoveries and loves…I’m not writing about labels to inform people of the labels that will be the next whatever…simply giving them some lovin’ because of my own tastes…sorry if that is selfish but um…I do write this blog for nothing..

  14. B) What gives you the authority to say that nobody would wear this? Have you asked th entire world? From what market perspective are you talking from?
    C) who says fashion student-y collections are a bad thing? I’d wear it which I realise is a poor indication of mass appeal but perhaps that is not what these labels want and that there is a growing niche. I never write from a business perspective because I am honestly ignorant and live in a fantasy land where these labels thrive but that is my own belief and

  15. Moreover the labels by and large that I have written about are in fact still around with business and stockists…research that if you wish
    D) Plenty of blogs write about the known designers and I choose to write about under the radar ones for my own benefit…perhaps they are striving to propose something different or something not for the masses… I bloody hope so…
    Sorry for triple comment posting..commenting from blackberry as this actually angers me and is very very frustrating…

  16. Wow!
    Those clothes are just gorgeous!
    The pants are amazing and the drapp√©s…!
    My favourite is the last blue/black dress!
    Beautyful fabric & color combination 🙂

  17. the camel coat is to die for its sooo nice! and that purple dress is stunning!!!!! the first print has some fabtastic intense colour in it its great!

  18. Oh my god. I’m in love. I literally gasped when I scrolled down to the purple dress. there’s the absolute beauty of it slightly offset by the element of “hmm, does that *quite* work?” which i think makes it even more beautiful. Love the electric blue too. and the red jacket. and all of it, all of it!!!

  19. Simply a genius! this young men has found himself, it doesn’t matter what we think about his work. He is just expresing himself.

  20. I am madly in love with that cropped red jacket. It looks like car upholstery, but I don’t care. I love it.

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