A lot of ‘Phoaaar’ and ‘Rooaar’

Anyone who knows me will know my fear of two things: rodents and cheese.  Of course, when it’s a furry white mouse attached to this memorable shawl from the Gareth Pugh SS08 collection, all is well.  It isn’t me confronting my biggest fear.  It’s me at the Mandi Lennard SS08 press preview day which was last week. 

The theme was ‘Fearsome’ and if by fearsome, you mean ‘Oh my – that’s FIERCE!’, then yes there was heaps of that going on.  Mandi Lennard represents a lot of the London Fashion Week designers that have that ‘phoaaar’ factor and in person, the clothing had me swooning quite a bit in that un-nochalent unfashionable way.

The main bit of FIERCE that you immediately spot is of course Gareth Pugh.  The blog has witnessed some interesting Gareth Pugh discussions in the past so I’m not going to say anymore on the subject other than the same-old same-old: I really do think the SS08 collection is his best yet.  In person and up close, the variety of textures and materials used really comes alive and on the rack, (this might be an insult to Pugh…), the clothes are quite desirable in the way that you want to wear them.  I do feel like all the leather fringe pieces would benefit from a permanent wind machine attached to them to get the full-on effect of that tough flowiness.

Roksanda Illincic demonstrates a different kind of fierce-ness.  As opposed to tentative swooning, I did do some girly gushing at Illincic’s satins and silks in gunmetal and a lot of acid yellow.  I quite like that whilst it’s an elegant collection, it verges on being slightly comic with balloon sleeves, oversized rounded shoulders and stripy black and white bras inserted in dresses.  You also get some masculine aspects in the collection like the blazer with the shoulders jutting right out (a Margiela influence me thinks but I like that infiltration…). 

Press days are supposed to be for the fash pros to check out the collections in person and to see what will be good for shooting/editorials etc.  However, I ended up professing my love for certain things, instilling desire for things that won’t ever be mine.  It’s a health hazard I tell you when you’re looking at things with supposedly a professional eye but all you’re really thinking is ‘Gosh… how do I get my mitts on that?’.  The things that will never be (or have a very slim chance of being) in my posession…

Danielle Scutt’s black and copper ruffle skirt that is FIERCE with the ruffles.  Note: Ruffles are generally not FIERCE. // Her HUGE metal belts and pendant necklaces that I’d wear with a pretty bare outfit. // The sort of animal print pencil skirt that isn’t so cliched with its use of the animal print ergo, I need it. 

I didn’t really go wild for the Karen Walker country florals but this red military shirt is all sorts of cute.  I only like to give military a ‘nod’. // Karen Walker sunglasses are always a welcome find in London. 

Henry Holland’s impossibly small sizing scared me off from even thinking about trying on a tight little dress with tie dye bust or those studded gradiated trousers so the accessories will do me.  I strangely like the colour combination of the turquoise and the aubergine with the studs.  It’s the rich intensity in the colours that I like // I already say I liked the shoes and a helpful reader gave me more info about the designer Holland collaborated with for his footwear – Atalanta Weller. 

Even the menswear got me.  Like this b Store SS08 black and white checked jacket (their own store label just gets stronger and stronger) // Aitor Throup’s complex black jackets that also have instruments that can be attached to them.

Excuse the over-usage of ‘Fierce’ in this post.  Seeing as I somewhat lack the Bronx badass attitude to use that word in real life, I over-indulged here. 

26 comments

  2. Yup… I’m quite scared of cheese…. really not into the stuff…

  3. Funny how I don’t think of the word “fierce” as particularly Bronx-ian. To me it is the exclusive province of gay men: “Oh honey, that is so FIERCE!” etc.
    But the Roksanda Illincic is amazing. I do so love all things yellow.

  4. I used to own a lovely wee rat named Gregory and thus that Mandi Lennard scarf is rather upsetting.

  6. I was amazed at just how roxy music so much of the stuff was. those huge shoulders everywhere, scutt’s flounced peplum skirts and even that (admittedly wonderful) pugh pliss√© wool dress with swarovski panels all screamed ‘for your pleasure’. maybe that’s me reading my favourite crap into it though?
    hate house of holland as I may, those leather jackets were beautifully made. the tiny flanges of contrast-coloured leather binding around the zips were absolutely beautiful.
    love,
    Alex.

  7. I love Danielle Scutts work and that skirt is FIERCE, I havent used the word Fierce in ages. I’m a big fan of Gareth Pugh, however I think I’ll pass on the mouse scarf, me and rats dont get on, they scare the hell out of me.

  8. The Roksanda Illincic stuff is gorgeous! I love that dress. Yellow is lovely. Not sure about the rodent chic… Conjurs up memories of how my cat ate my sister’s pet rat on christmas day! It sounds farcical but its true. It was not a merry christmas. Except for the cat, of course!
    I want to find a skirt like that ruffley one x

  11. Oh my god, did some of you think those were real mice??! As if I would even hold them if they were… I don’t think mice even come in that shade of cream…. They’re thankfully faux… *shudders*

  12. Cheese? I don’t imagine you eat much pizza then 🙂
    The mouse dress makes me think it belongs in the Addams Family mansion. But the Ilincic stuff is gorgeous, as are the House of Holland accessories (what price range has he placed them in?)

  13. I understand you comment of seeing Pugh’s clothing on the rack, helps you envision wearing it; I feel the same way. The styling at the shows (which I love and wouldn’t want it any other way) is quite conceptual and brings the garments into a more costumed world. But still, there are way too many practical shows out there, so I hope he doesn’t change a thing.

  14. I agree with you entirely about G. Pugh’s Spring collection. I was really disappointed actually, You give him more credit than I did. Oh I think Ilincic is up to some cool things…It’s so awesome that you get to see the clothes up close and personal. That makes all the difference.

  15. Yes, I feel the same about that mouse coat, totally squeeeemish. Strange that one would want to kill mice only to recrate them on your coat. Reminds me of the thing that MJ’s BF wore to his after party. Ick. I love that checked b store jacket though but I’m really surprised that you didn’t like the Karen Walker, that stuff looks super cute, I love her stuff.

  17. FUR IS WRONG WRONG WRONG!! I THOUGHT YOU HAD TASTE UNTIL I SAW THAT MOUSE SHAWL.

  18. aitor throup is god…..the only men’s wear designer in die to get my mitts on.
    makes me want to marry a rich guy and have him shower me with all the aitors money can buy. delusions…..

  19. I’m so jealous you got to see Roksanda’s stuff up close and personal. I am absolutely in love with her Spring collection, especially with that yellow dress.

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