No matter how hard we do the burying our heads underneath the sand routine, when it’s hitting front page news on your Sunday paper, you really can’t avoid. I had been vaguely aware of Arcadia’s (umbrella group over Topshop, Topman, Dorothy Perkins, Miss Selfrdige etc) less than savoury workforce policies, with people working for Arcadia telling me of Sir Philip Green’s grubby fingered ways of making as much money as possible and it has finally made it to the forefront with news of Sri Lankan, Indian and Bangladeshi workers in Mauritius, getting less than ¬£4 wages a day, 40% below the local wage.
This has been called ‘slave labour’ by critics and if all of this is true, frankly I’m ashamed and in a little bit of a quandary. To those of you are are a tad more educated on the subject than I am, the previous statement might strike you as ignorant. But there it is, I’m not a crusader and can only really face the situation when confronted by a shocking headline.
I’ve always been a mixer & matcher when it comes to my wardrobe and no shop is shunned but having successfully not bought anything from Topshop for 3 months in a row a while ago, I know that the Arcadia Avoidance can be done. For me, this isn’t just a matter of getting on my high ethical horse, as you very know, I have none of those ethical pretensions. My gripe is that Topshop on the whole is not actually cheap as chips and yes, though I can’t fault it design-wise, I can live without it by turning to alternatives, being lucky enough to live in a city where your whole outfit doesn’t have to come from Topshop.
So now what? Can I promise a total boycott? Can I go the whole hog and not do the half-hearted pansy thing? We shall see but for now, the key thing I can do is avoidance. This of course brings into question whether I can in all honesty vouch that the rest of my non-Topshop wardrobe is ethically correct. Again, for me, it’s a matter of a lack of education. I can only do my best and try.
The same goes with Zara and the Inditex group. Most of their clothes are from Camboya, Pakistan, etc… And I have reasons to think they do the same with wages. It’s a shame.
The irony is that many people just can’t afford to be ethically sound, since ethically sound clothing generally costs more, quite a lot more, than high street clothing.
I generally assume that most high street shops use slave labour- at prices that cheap they have to be, don’t they?
But Topshop isn’t cheap, (by my standards, anyway) which is what doesn’t make sense. But I guess it does when you look at Phillp Green’s lifestyle.
It’s just a bit of a moral dilemna because clothes that are both pleasing to the eye, and good value for money, that are fairtrade, eco friendly et al, just don’t exist!
Sad but true.
S xx
Indeed… it is nice to know when you buy certain designers everyone’s getting their fair share.
I do my best to only by things made in places which I can rely on a bit more (Italy, US, UK etc…) when I don’t know much about a brand
Well the cheap-but-unethical backlash has been bubbling under for a while, perhaps this revelation will really stir things up. For what it’s worth, I attended a George At Asda fashion show a few weeks ago and its managing director (forget her name but extremely dynamic woman) made a big point of saying that the people who make George clothes are paid a fair wage.
great post Suzie!
I think we should be more critical about the prices of clothing specially in mass production, where the costs of production are even lower than at more exclusive brands. They are def getting their profits from slave labour.
It’s the same with H&M too! Here in Romania, my aunt works at a factory which makes (or at least made, I don’t know about now) clothes for H&M. It wasn’t a H&M factory, they were just clients, so you can’t really say what they paid for the workmanship. But my aunt makes 200-250euros a month, that means 50something euros a week, that means about 10euros a day, so it’s not much, working in a plain textile factory. She (and the workers there) also made clothes for bigger designer houses like Dolce&Gabanna and Armani. And the money she got was the same. It’s not about TopShop, it’s the industry…And I do not know what one can do about that…..
I was about to comment that I’d read in some book on ethical shopping that H&M was relatively good, but then I saw the previous comment.
It’s the same with pretty much all the high street brands. A lot of the designers too.
You said you haven’t bought anything from Topshop in the last 3 months. Yet in your Turban post (June 7th, 2007) you tell us you bought a Turban from Topshop. Watch what you say and write. People do not like dishonesty.
An ethical take on fashion feels a bit like a paradox. DJ m(arie/michelle) already pointed out the ironic cost of the warm fuzzy feeling of ethical clothing. And I wonder how much of the rise in ethical products we are seeing is part of a genuine cultural change, or merely faddish lip service to massage people’s consciences. This is pretty much what is happening with the whole eco-friendly thing so far. Case in point, *that* infamous bag. Or organic stuff – whether it’s cotton or tomatoes, does anyone consider the cost of bringing it over here? Or the land cleared to grow it?
Arcadia runs a pretty tight hegemony over most people’s clothes-shopping habits, and i don’t know what can be said of those outside it. Nothing too cheerful, as Diana’s comment indicates. So for those outside major cities not blessed with independent stores or great vintage stuff, you’re not left with an awful lot of options. Unless you are happy to opt out of the cycle entirely.
It’s good that such bad practices are brought to light, and i hope it can encourage Arcadia et al to improve. But as a society that is currently grounded upon rapid change and turnover of trends, we are as consumers feeding the monster ourselves.
I like manufacturing in the U.S. so that I know the people who work for me are getting a living wage…but try getting people to pay U.S. prices. It’s hard. Everyone wants a bargain.
I try, as much as possible, to buy my stuff from local designers. A lot of my favourite pieces are from those talented indie designers or pieces I put together myself by recycling old clothes. I alos love thrift shopping, but many of these clothes were originally sweatshop made anyways… There are even a few local brands that offer clothes from organically grown cotton or hemp. I have to admit I usually am not able to afford these though… The only way to really know if something is made ethically, for sure, is make it yourself.
Sad thing is, nearly every high street/retailer and even certain high-end designers fall in this category. I hate to sound smug, but I haven’t purchased anything but secondhand/charity in over 5 years. I couldn’t imagine it otherwise, anymore.
oh impala lily
she said she tried not to buy anything :S
so yeah
it was only a turban
mm.
This is the kind of post i’ve been waiting to see on such a widely read blog like style bubble. I choose to shop very conciously when looking at clothes, and i’d like to think that if people understood what was going on in the factories of the brands they love, they would williningly give them up too. My advice would be to check tags and research the company’s website to see if thier products are made in an ethical manner. The same goes with things like beauty products, make sure that they are not tested on animals and shop wisely!
Susie didn’t say she hadn’t bought anything in the last three months, she said she didn’t buy anything for a period of three months a while ago.
“having successfully not bought anything from Topshop for 3 months in a row a while ago”
Watch what you read.
A while ago? added?
Trust me I do watch I read.
I think slave labour is terrible and Topshop have a lot to do to clear their name.
However, just because it is on the front page of a Sunday newspaper, everyone jumps on the bandwagon.
Topshop was caught out five years ago, so surely a boycott should of started then.
Diana got it spot on, it is the industry. And we just do not know.
I have worked in the industry for six years. At one point I worked for a major high street retailer. Everything seemed fine, as checks were done on the factories. But deep down you knew corners were cut. I could see this in the attitude of those above me. They did not care how it is done, as long as they made their money.
I am sure Amy is right, it did not say that earlier, as it does not read right. Anyway I think her point is valid about a sudden ‘U-Turn’.
Topshop has been done before, I remember there was video footage. But to be honest I carried on shopping there, but not as much. We are just so blind and unfortunately I do not think there is a lot we can do, apart from a boycott. It makes you wonder what others are doing. Why is Primark so cheap? What corners are they cutting? I do not shop there and never have done.
I think it happens from high street to couture.
Interesting subject! 😉
I’m not defending them (arcadia) or anything. I do believe in humane wages. 4 pounds is actually a large sum there, not really large but it is enough to live. People who hear about their wages think that it’s absurd because their country and culture is way different than the workers’, many of them are actually happy they have a job with such a company.
manufacturing in the US does not mean every worker is getting a living wage. there are many “home sewers” who are very underpaid in the US.
Before I even begin to answer points one by one, I wanted to clarify that I DID say ‘a while ago’ when talking about not shopping at Topshop for three months in a row…. in fact, I’ve done this Topshop plateau thing on quite a few occasions. It wasn’t a conscientious thing, just that nothing from Topshop happened to rock my boat. I was using it as a way of saying that avoiding Topshop on the grounds of their production policy IS possible.
And I didn’t ADD ‘a while ago’ to the post. It was always there… I haven’t even been at home to edit this post until now!
Right, wording error clarified…onto the points…. let me read and digest everything as I think people have bought up really interesting points…
I can clarify that Susie didn’t add anything into her post – I came upon it as soon as she posted it and it’s exactly as it is now.
I find being ethical near impossible really since I live in a city which is 90% high street. I think the best chance we have is that these retailers change their policy because of consumer pressure, and the industry in general as Diana says.
Lets get real here, a lot of high street shops and designers use cheap labour to produce their stock which is how they adopt their pricing. It is very trendy now to be eco friendly but if you are to go down that road then you need to go the whole hog and maybe boycotting a lot of shops. Cheapo shops such as Primark, Matalan and TK Maxx have had the finger pointed at them as well and questions are being asked as to why their clothes are so cheap. My opinion is that this topic is a very debatable one.
I thought I read something different too? But nevermind!
I agree with Diana, Rebecca and Amy- actually with everyone!
Topshop are just unlucky as they got caught out, I think most high street ‘cut corners’ (and high end companies/labels). This is not the first for Topshop, but it is hard to see what is going on out there. I worked in a Buying office for a big high street chain and our suppliers/agents/factories all told us they were 100%. Interesting what Rebecca says, what about ‘cheaper’ stores like Primark? Why are they so cheap? Also from my experience, Aya is right. The people I met from our factories abroad loved the fact they worked for someone big and British, and the pay was the best they could get compared to anything (however I know this does not make it right).
It is not so black and white. Also we have to remember that the Times is not a fan of Sir Philip Green and never have been!
I am sorry, but I do not think I will be the only one, I will still shop in Topshop. I think I will take that chance and be punished for my fashion sins!
I think its not really our job as consumers to boycott these clothing
because we cant really choose can we?…
most clothing are made from slave labour, so there should be better laws, not only here but in third world countries especially. The pressure should be on the governments who allow this, not on topshop.
Topshop is doing a legal thing!
i’m sorry, but some of us need to grow up.
what people are forgetting is that arcadia group is in the ‘business’ of fashion and by business i mean making a profit. they are making their investors very happy/rich and their millions of customers are happy which takes priority over some underpaid workers. their business model works: BUY CHEAP, SELL HIGH.
that being said, i’ve never bought a thing from topshop. i don’t go to h&m, mango or zara unless it’s an emergency. i just don’t shop there. i’m more of a looker than a buyer. i’d rather make investments into my wardrobe than cheap seasonal buys. these shops are not the place for that.
if you want to get ethical quick or now than:
LEARN TO SEW/KNIT/CROCHET- make your own clothes. my nana made my mom’s clothes and gramps made her shoes (he was a shoemaker). it’s easy: buy basic pattern blocks, a second hand sewing machine, some material, scissors, some thread and knock yourself out. BE LIKE SUSIE- start with ribbons & glue or by making pillows or something small. in a year you will be able to make some decent stuff for yourself that actually fits your body.
if you’re too lazy than GO TO THE LOCAL SEAMSTRESS/TAILOR. bring them a picture/pattern/fabric, they’ll take your measurements you come back for a fitting and a week later you have an outfit made for you. or just have them UPDATE/ALTER what you already have by raising a hemline, etc.
but once you’ve learned to sew, then BUY FROM LOCAL MILLS- ask the fabric store person for (list your country here) made textiles or swiss textiles. i’ve visitied alot of swiss mills. they rarely outsource anything and their workers are paid VERY well (min wage here is 25chf an hour). they are more expensive but WELL MADE and ETHICAL.
for those of you who might say that it takes too much time to do all of this, just think about all the tv/internet hours you’ve logged in a week. More than 5 hours is it? i think you’ve got some time to spare…
I work in one of the big retailers (hopefully not for too long) and I agree with most of the things you all discuss here. From the inside what I can see is that the whole system is so huge that there is no one who really controls it and the responsability does not fall on any specific part of the chain.
I also know that European laws have gotten more strict which means these giants are being more watched than ever. So I guess that is good news.
Then again responsability should also fall on us, consumers…we need to change our mindset, stop desiring to have more and more; stop our voracious appetite for the new, learn to live with what we have, minimize,recycle, buy vintage, stop the craziness.
I challenge all of you who read this not to buy ANYTHING else this month that is not absolutely necessary (no, those flat boot in deliciously soft buttery leather are SO not indispensable). Is it possible?
I am aware that this isn’t just isolated to Arcadia as Allure and others have pointed out so it does point to the bigger problem, like Rollergirl said that when will our appetite for the cheap and disposable end? I’ve read several articles that points to this trend for cheap cheap one-season clothes has reached saturation level and that shoppers are becoming more discerning about buying so much. If this is the case, perhaps this discussion is pointless really.
However, Topshop clothes for me isn’t really cheap throwaway tat and I DON’T want to stop buying it. I’ve been enamoured with their Unique/Boutique range and their designer collaborations which have all held up quality wise for me, so the nitty gritty issue is the questionable ethics behind Arcadia’s production which I believe is being investigated by Arcadia and hopefully I can post a rebuttal as on a selfish level, I don’t REALLY want to stop shopping at Topshop….
DJM and Steviehave also pointed out the difficulty with buying ethically whilst keeping expenditure low, especially if you don’t live in a big city where there is a bigger variety of stores. It’s a personal quandry for me as to whether a boycott is possible because I can shop in other places if I so wish. I understand this isn’t possible for everyone and nobody should be criticised for their choices! Theresa’s point about indie shopping reminds me that buying from smaller designers is no longer a localised affair because of the internet and I suppose that helps a little.
Diana: That is an interesting insight. Pointing to a bigger problem then – it’s the industry…high street, high-end…. where there is maximum profit to be made, they’re gonna make it and from a business point of view, quite rightly so!
So then you guys have bought up alternatives…namely…
Theresa and Dimes and your DIY proposal. This would be ideal but unfortunately we’re not all skilled and to be cliched, it’s a time-poor, cash-rich world we live in. Even with the 5 hours of extra time I waste on surfing (essential for the blog, non?), I’d struggle to make decent garments…. perhaps it’s a long-term fix that everyone can aspire to…
Hannah…I’m sure you and a lot of people have long shunned the high street. Personally I’m still not sure whether I could completely shun it because of the composite nature of my wardrobe….
Aya and Alice: Interesting points again. Are the workers happy? I also understand that as it’s the same with production factories in China making a lot more from producing clothes for foreign companies than working for local wages. Again, I suppose the public needs to be better educated as to whether the workers see themselves as being exploited.
Kylie: I don’t comment on these matters much simply because I’ll only get accused of being an uneducated oaf who knows jack shit about what she’s talking about…. and that is true… I AM an uneducated oaf and I’m not going to pretend otherwise…
Amy, Ive, Alice: The post was about me pondering about Arcadia rather writing them off completely. I appreciate your insight which is why I said I need to be educated more and this comment thread has proved to be exactly that…educational.
Amy: Please read my earlier comment about post editing…which I absolutely did not do. I can send you Typepad records if you so wish.
Too many points to answer individually just means that all in all….this is completely inconclusive. It isn’t black and white as someone has said. It can’t be argued out on this blog due my lack of information (and I never intended to be an informant anyway…). I have no concrete solutions to the ‘bigger problem’ because these are areas shrouded from the consumers. Perhaps, there is nothing more than to carry on as normal and leave it to the big guns to sort it out…. ? Again… I have no idea…
I’m yet again embarrassed by my inability to speak intelligently about something that is ever-so touchy. Ok…back to posting about shiny shoes….
I don’t think you need to solve it Susie, I think it’s just an excellent topic to bring up and to provoke discussion. The post has certainly been successful on this front! We all need to take responsibility for what we buy. I do buy Topshop, Zara, H & M and Primark, I’m a student and can’t afford much else. So I have to live with those choices and I understand that workers are exploited to make the garments I wear. That does not make me feel good about it but without money there is less choice. I now resolve to buy more second hand clothes and at least to be aware of the exploitation that goes along with my High Street purchases.
No offence to anyone, but this subject is as old as time. I’m not saying just because its not new it shouldn’t be brought up. I’m saying why must it take front page, sensationalised news to be brought up? If anyone really wants to be ethical, stop consuming anything MNC related and grow your own farm and be self subsistent. Unfortunately, that is not possible. If you don’t buy Topshop, you’re still drinking coca cola. Some people here have said that that amount paid to workers is “big” in those respective third world countries. They’re not. These retailers pay folks local wages (or they should anyway), and local wages are shit to begin with. If anyone wants change, want it because you know everything about it. If not, one won’t be much better than uninformed buyers happily sweeping off racks of clothing at Topshop/wherever. Partially informed and jumping on this ethical bandwagon crap is about as wise as being ignorantly blissful and decked out head to toe in slave manufactured apparel.
That said, I’ve been a reader of your blog for some time now, and am thankful for all the entertainment/inspiration/etc.
I think “sew your own clothes” is not a reasonable solution for most people. Let’s be real. I also disagree with the idea that you can’t ponder an issue aloud without knowing every single fact. No one would learn anything if they weren’t allowed to open their mouths until they were perfectly and completely educated. Education happens through give-and-take. I do agree that it’s not a black-and-white issue. There’s a lot of hand-wringing but it’s true that unless we go back to subsistence farming and wear sack-cloth and ashes, we’re going to continue to exploit the human resources and the earth’s resources to varying degrees.
Well it’s not a newspaper headline that is going to change my buying habits, people have to be pretty damn stupid if they thought all this “cheap” clothes the high street give us are being made with fair wages, it’s the way it is.
I’m glad this things are out in the open and the owners are called to responsabily with this newspaper reports but am I going to start Avoiding Topshop specifically ? Of course not, I buy clothes on a budget, I can’t avoid the high street all together, and since I have more to do with my life(besides the fact that I’m a manual work disaster) than sewing my own clothes and raise my own farm animals, Thing have to go on as it is and hope for the best.
It’s not a panacea, but a clothing swap can be one among many alternatives. Some friends and I just had one, trading clothes we didn’t want or that didn’t fit for others, and donating the leftovers to a thrift store (charity shop). I was pleased with the results, personally.
It’s not going to solve the industry’s problems, but it can shift the cycle of acquiring clothing for those who have fewer “ethical” shopping options.
Let’s all get naked.
blosson: great idea!! :)))
IT takes a sensationalist headline to make people think about it, that’s all. i think Topshop is a great example, as it sells average garments very expensively. And actually, It IS our choice as consumers. It’s ENTIRELY our choice. We can choose to spend ¬£30 on an ethical cardi or we can buy one from Topshop, same price, that means slave labour in a sweatshop and Phillip Green in an earth destroying private jet.
And i was struck by the article becasue i was reading a book about working conditions for immigrants in 1900 Chicago – and the techniques/conditions were identical.
Saying they should be grateful for any work they can get is lazy. Would YOU like to do do it? No. So why is it good enough for them?
Hello
I actually have no problem buying stuff made in poor countries. I just want to be sure that the people get paid fairly (in their countries standard), do not have to work in awful condition and are over a certain age. Many people need these jobs. And lets see it clear. The child of a factory worker has more chances, than the child of a farmer. A lot of young women in China start in clothing factories and move then on to electronics. To have no factories and production industry is often more dire for people, than sewing stuff together. This is better work, than to stand in a flooded rice field, setting plants by hand, as much as romantic greenies want to believe in the connection with nature. Farming with non-modern tools is a pain in the ass and really risky, because bad weather can happen to everyone. And then people do not get to eat.
And not sharing my money with them, because I can actually do everything myself, is also not fair by my standard. Good the trickle goes awfully thin in the end, but this happens with charity too. At least people are in charge of their life. And as countries like Taiwan show, people profit in the end.
But as I said, I would like them to be treated as human beings and not having to work in near slavery.