Surreal Show

Back to reality is the only way I can describe coming back to London since I had a surprisingly fashion absorbing few days, without even shopping (unfortunately for those who requested Parisian shopping tips, I have none to give since I didn’t even get the chance to go shopping SERIOUSLY) – by fashion absorption, I mean just taking it in and breathing in the fashion in the air I was talking about but luckily, fashion absorption also involved seeing some shows. Since Paris defiles is all a bit new/fresh for me, one by one, I’ll recount the strange tales that can only be told by an outsider girl comme moi. Starting off with the most surreal one.

In an even stranger than strange turn of events, I somehow winded up at the show of one of the big French fashion houses. It went something like this: Me having tea and cakes at Laduree thinking ‘Ah a pleasantly quiet afternoon eating calorific treats!’. Phone rings. Anthony Vaccarello, who I met at Texas at the AF event last year saying ‘So do you want to come to the Lanvin show then?’  Me said ‘Say what???? Er…. YES!’. Me then panicking because I was wearing my KTZ leggings, scuffed up white shoes (yes, I was not thinking when I was packing) and a black dress that has seen better days.  Right, sure thing, I’ll just rock up to the Lanvin show looking a bit London-ghetto. Excellent….

Let’s just say that the show-going crowd at Lanvin is a little older, extremely elegant with exquisite taste in shoes and very very sombre – black ahoy! I’m not a compromiser in style but a little adaptation in my outfit could have probably done a world of good.  Surreal is the operative word here when people like Carine Roitfeld are walking by (looking fab in Givenchy by the by…). But let’s cut the outfit-doubting banter and pre-show drivel and just get to the point.  Just as the lights dimmed, my camera did the unforgivable and gave me that ‘Please change the battery pack’ malarky and thankfully the show music drowned out my cry of ‘Noooooooooooooo………!’.

There were shoulders – big ones. There were collars – hugely exaggerated and pronounced. There was a slight darkness – heightened with slightly disconcerting pale make-up and jagged black wigs. A strong sillhouette seemed to emerge with drapings that slid around the back, puffs that were almost stand-away yet the volume seemed to be in all the right places at the right time. It’s a pity that the frontview pictures don’t capture the intricacies of the back because there was some pretty stunning stuff going on behind there.  The shoes were distinctly tougher without looking themey, and were I think the standout from the collection.  I have to admit, wee feelings of deja vu did strike me but on the whole, this collection did seemed ‘Lanvin’ all over it. This wasn’t a strong pounding statement but rather a very tasteful return to what we see as being ‘Lanvin’ that has been punched and jaunted up a bit, which is no bad thing.

Jewel tones done best (very ‘Lanvin!’) but overall, the palette was controlled and pared down. 

I’m always very concerned about volume used in the wrong way since in the past few years, we have seen a redux of volume (not always executed properly) but here, it has been cleverly used and if you could see the backs of the pieces, the silhouette would be further pronounced.  I was thinking ‘Oh dear… back to the 80’s we go…’ but on closer inspection, these are the best ‘big shoulders’ I’ve seen so far this season (yes, in case you haven’t noticed, the shoulder is back in a big way…).

It’s always hard to do the tough but beautiful/beautiful but tough shoe but I think they get them right on here

I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again – seeing flat photos online just can’t compare to seeing them in person and when people question the relevance of shows, I can’t for the life of me figure out why.  With photos, you are always quick to judge, eager to deride and jeer but in reality, they come to life, make a lot more sense and ultimately you see them as garments and thats what it’s all about right?

(So a little private note: Thank you Anthony and Arnaud for inviting me Рfélicitations to you both on a successful season)