Cha-cha Chalayan

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Hchalayan H Chalayan probably affords Hussein Chalayan the pleasure of creating the masterpiece shows and collections that he does for his mainline collection but that doesn’t mean his diffusion line is any less of an achievement.  Not only do I get tons of wear out of H Chalayan pieces (a yellow button down shirt-skirt with an elasticated waistband comes to mind…. worn so much that the colour has faded…), but they’re the sort of pieces have a welcome twist to them.

At the Rainbow Wave showrooms, I viewed the AW08-9 H Chalayan collection for Brittique who regularly buy in H Chalayan.  The short of it is that I basically wanted to wear/buy everything.  The surprising thing about the collection was the lightness of fabrics used.  In other words the collection is ripe for layering away Susie-Style. 

(Excuse the photography – the colour palette is supposed to be black but looks navy in the pictures…)

These parka/jacket pieces with the zips running across it are really great.  Excuse me if I keep on saying ‘easy to wear’ but that isn’t an insult – they are just so damn easy and irresistable to wear – no two ways about it!  There were also Barbour-style waxed jackets which I wasn’t so keen on but it did continue this theme of a ‘twist on practical outerwear’. 

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The zip detailing continues in these tops… bagsy me the purple silk one!

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Pretty pretty puffa coats and jackets in light fleecy wool/raincoat materials.  Love the way they tie into a subtle bow in the fornt….

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The lightness of fabrics that I mentioned are demonstrated in these pieces which are surprisingly summery.  We have neons that are dulled by sheer neutral chiffons in loose hoodies and dropped waist dresses.  These were the pieces that I couldn’t stop touching and thinking ‘Hmm…. I really like this… but could this just be because of my temporary fascination with neons that are toned down?’… will ahve to ponder this one a bit more…   

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The lightness of everything was weighted down with a curious Dali-esque print on dresses and skirts and further made heavy with a wide leather hem.  I sort of like the contrast these pieces bring.   

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The collection was mainly dominated by black the shots of yellow/olive, neons and mauve does mean it’s hard to gauge what colours would appeal as it’s not yer’ ‘run-of-the-mill’ sort of palette. 

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Images of the line sheet book which just goes to show that even without the addition of colours and textures, the shapes are already appetising enough…   

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22 comments

  1. wow you’re so lucky getting to look at all these amazing clothes.
    i’m not convinced about the printed stuff myself, but everything else looks amazing. look forward to seeing what end up in brittique

  2. this is so, so cool–you’re a lucky gal! question: do those salmon pink & neutral chiffon pieces remind you of raf simons palette/technique at jil sander s/s 08, or is it just me?

  3. It’s all cool stuff; the colors and layers and draping . . . I love it all. I bet this is a really cool experience for you, getting the inside look while you do your buying research. I’m a bit jealous.

  4. I like H Chalayan a lot. Unfortunately I don’t own a single piece, but I’m looking forward to buying some in the near future. The quality seems great, not to talk about the amazing designs.

  5. Hi Susie! Wow so much choice! All together, how many individual styles can you buy for the shop???

  6. oh my gosh… you are so lucky! do you get to at least try stuff on??? it would be so hard to not buy the stuff for yourself (do you at least get a wholesale discount???)
    i heart the purple silk number with the zip detail

  7. I have this one dress from H Chalayan that I ended up buying in three different fabrics (black jersey, black silk and green silk) because it is seriously the most amazing dress- very comfortable but with a great cut that somehow manages to be girlie, sexy and avant garde all at the same time. I can’t wait to see these designs in person too…

  8. I’m with you: I think of all the diffusion lines out there, H Chalayan is one of the best. It manages to carry the imprimature of his vision in a cleverly diluted manner. Every time I do a press appointment and see his collections, I just want to pre-order the lot. LLG xx

  9. hi susie!
    i was just wonderin if u heard anthything about the ysl manifesto? i spent the whole day wildy detouring my plans + errands to no avail 🙁

  10. Deedeexdreamer: I was holed up at home yesterday so I didn’t get to go see the YSL ambassadors or the Truman Brewery….! I’ve definitely got the dates and locations right…. perhaps if it’s not too out of your way, you could try another hunt today?
    future_classic: I haven’t confirmed yet… With regards to exactly what will be bought, the ultimate decision lies with Nicole… I’m just there to sort of say ‘Oooh…that’s pretty, that will work!’.
    Lady C: Here’s hoping….!
    Glad ppl like the H Chalayan stuff…. definitely the most sellable stuff on Brittique and I think this collection is a lot more solid than last season’s…but then again AW collections do tend to be more robust…

  11. I see what you mean about being great for layering. I love the cut and style of the first jacket, I’m drooling over that one. And the puffa jackets, quite unique…I’d like to get lost in that showroom for a while:)

  12. wow, i really like the toned down neons too. and the yellow skirt must be REALLY great if you, who has many many clothes (if i may say so) wore it so much that the colour has faded!
    love,
    Cate

  13. i really like toned down neons…you are so fortunate. You know Hussein Chalayan is my main man!

  14. Susie – 1st: Jennine pointed me to that great piece on you by EJ. Very inspirational in my own efforts. 2. I love the fresh feeling of the toned down neons. It reads as an unexpected blend of modern edge and the soft side of nature. I normally don’t embrace neon, since I already wore it to death in the eighties, but this collection hit it perfectly for me. Thanks Susie, now I’m going to obsess over these pieces all day! LOL – Jean

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