The Biba Case is Closed

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Closure is a therapeutic good thing… I MAY have lambasted the Biba relaunch once or twice but now I‚Äôve found the Biba zen zone where no hate is needed.  It‚Äôs all become clear in a ‚ÄòEureka‚Äô moment.  Biba‚Äôs aiming at an entirely different demographic to what it was decades ago when it was the place for cheap, fast, funky fashion.  With Bella Freud having left the scene, the new creative team have crammed as much lux quality into the designs, and suddenly, I ‚Äògeddit‚Äô…. it is to be treated as a fashion label with a past that lives on in ‚Äòspirit‚Äô but not in anything else.  Or if history and past doesn‚Äôt interest you, then it should just be treated as a fashion label that has done a highly cute and covetable AW08-9 collection.  The initial spurn on Freud‚Äôs collections for Biba grew out of discontent and confusion about what exactly Biba was trying to achieve with its relaunch. 

But the undeniable conclusion came, as I rifled through the racks and inspected the shoes at the press day a few months ago, which was that the clothes are heavy and laden with high quality detailing and embellishment whilst being fun with a wide age appeal.  It‚Äôs lux but not untouchable.  So from now on it is back to the drawing board with what Biba is all about.  Cut from the past and onwards with clothes that stand up to the prices that they bear…       

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Glitter, sequins, beading!  Bob Mackie excess lives on but in a good way…   

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Knits that remind you of you of the cardis/jumpers your nan got you…except these are heavier and feels very lush. 

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The shoes in particular were quite the knockout…. patent, clashy metallic cut-outs, curved heels, shoe boots galore..

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19 comments

  1. I’ve got problems with the actually Biba-hype. OK, Biba is a great brand an there are components, which are really special Biba, but also I think, Biba lost it’s identity. If I see my mother and her friends in their Biba-Outfits from 1970, I really love the style. If I’d been a girl of the 60s/70s, I would have worn this dresses and so. But now it’s not the same. It’s only an expensive brand which lost it’s idea of fashion for cheap price.

  2. I was going to say what Wendy just said, I want those red metallic shoes:) Remind me of the Wizard of Oz. I think the clothes look fun, but I can see what you mean how it’s not really like old Biba.

  3. I like the blue flouncy thing, and that slick black trench. The shoes are cool, but I think Gucci did that already, didn’t they?

  4. I really loved their knits this season. Especially this one black sweater dress with red/orange details that is calling out to me. Maybe one of my grandmothers can whip up something similar for next fall.

  5. Ah… Gemma… I missed that bit of news…but what does ‘going into administration’ mean? It’s not completely bust is it? Ah well… guess these samples may not see the light of production then…

  6. I think the official line is that it will be closing unless someone puts more money in. So who knows whether we’ll see anything else after this season?
    Phillip Green should open his wallet, I say.

  7. One of the greatest mistakes in reviving a brand is when a designer tries to take it in the context of yesterday.
    I mean reviving a revered brand or some label of cult status could be a tricky enterprise as there is not tried and tested solution, what is best to do is get someone who could modernize the brand and make it appeal to a wider audience.
    I also have to say there was too much hype on Biba and the Bella Freud partnership that it was just going in so-so directions…

  8. Maybe the problem with the relaunch was that the people they were targeting had no connection with the history of Biba. Maybe if they had launched some Biba Vintage pieces, and then did some fashion styles it would have helped. Crying shame for AW though, as the collection was stunning. I’ve heard that this might not be the end of the story….

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