So as I predicted, Marc Jacobs managed to throw me a bone or two. It’s pointless denying the influence this collection will probably have on what we will be seeing on the high streets next year as almost every season, for the past few years, something Marc-inspired ALWAYS ends up on the high street. I don’t love this collection in its entirity but at least it was vaguely memorable and probably one of the collections that will still stick in a few weeks time.
Set in a deliberately fake and angular looking green grass path, Mr Jacobs sent down a variety of looks; futuristic flappers, art deco ladies done up in shiny shiny fabrics, clown-like costumes in hi-techy fabrics like sparkly sequinned fabrics, a hint of Greece and Middle East with draping and harem pants in hues of grey and white. Volume is still pounding its way into spring. Some of the cutting of the dresses was so casual that it could be mistaken for being unfinished. Layer and layer upon ruffles on dropped waist 20’s style dresses. There’s even a whiff of early 90’s casual wear with pleated paper pants and loose gauchos.
Once again, Marc Jacobs has gone all out with the styling so that the overall effect can either be interpreted as an assualt on the senses or styling perfection. I’d say it’s a bit of both because the styling can detract from the garments itself. Looking at each piece individually, I would not wear half of it. On the other hand, the styling is a way of giving the unimaginative such as myself, inspiration to layer in different ways and create similar proportions or looks.
The real hit and miss was with the accessories where I seem to be having a LOVE/HATE thing going on. I absolutely ADORE the metallic side tilted caps with the moulded perspex flowers (very Georgia O’Keefe…). It’s a brilliant clash between modern sportswear and the bygone roaring 20’s. Headbands with large plastic jewels are the on cute side of tacky. There seems to be the same variety going on with the shoes as with the clothes. Jil Sander-esque minimalist wedges with hollow square heels, ironically blingy sandals (really love the fake diamon conical heel but why must it be toe thong sandals!) and flat dandy-ish slip on shoes. The bags however I could do without. Still following on with the successful quilting and chain combination, this time, Marc Jacobs has opted for diagonal quilting in creams, purples and a very odd pumpkin colour.
The fact that the collection has actually prompted me to muster up some enthusiasm again for fashion week I suppose is a good sign. Perhaps because it is a collection that will invoke love/hate reactions from people and even if it’s not a perfect collection, will at least leave an impression.
(Pics from style.com)
i love the first outfit and the two rochas-esque dresses (the greyish draped dress and the ultra ruffled monochromatic dress)
Wedges are still going? Good– I’ve got lots of ’em.
It looks like ruffles, drop-waists and other 20’s-style elements are at play. That’s exciting.
Those bags are hideous– Marc’s bags are getting worse and worse!
I’m really not feeling the direction MJ is headed in this Spring.
It feels almost as if he’s playing it safe this time around. So much of his collection is one way, while another portion is the exact opposite.
His vision for S&S ’07 seems to be very clouded. And he doesn’t appear to be alone, looking at some of the other collections released.
I like what I’m seeing so far , reminds me of harlequins. The dresses at first appear to be made from paper but I think that is just the size of the images..I’m off to go check out the other shoes on fashionspot now x
I think he is one of the most over-rated designers. 10 yrs ago, yes, he was different, but now? I dont think he really cares as he knows that he can get away with anything(remember the total Versace rip-off collection for LV last season?).
This collection is just YSL rose collection few yrs back(esp. the rose/layered bag) with a hint of chanel and bit of richard nichol. Absolute rip-off.
^I do agree that originality is pretty much all but lost from MJ’s collections these days. Like Karl Lagerfeld in his Chloe days, Marc Jacobs is a good editor of looks and influences. It is futile though to ignore just how directional his collections always end up being! It’s like hate was spewn at the A/W06 collection at first but look what’s creeping into the whole British high street – Marc Jacobs rip offs in clothes, shoes and bags! Perhaps it is part hailing at the MJ alter but for high street retailers to produce rip-offs in this way suggests to me that they recognise the man has a finger on the ‘What will the customer like’ pulse.
I guess I have disagree. I adore Marc Jacobs, I think if it wasn’t for him then we wouldn’t have places like Forever 21, Topshop, or H&M. He sets the standards for fashion…I have never seen a designer who influences then retail market more then him.
I agree that the MJ Hats are adorable but his designs are truly worsening…just look at his work with LV…
Viva Las Vegas Trash Bags for USD$7 Grand!
The Media has been very indulgent with him but any Line with versatile mass interpretations or has a collection that is easy to duplicate can always end up on the High Streets…I personally wouldn’t call that Direction.
I say directional only because when talking about the British high street which is naturally very trend-led, it is not coincidence that MJ’s work for both his own line and his diffusion line (not the only designer but one of the few) always seem to make it onto mood boards and that is in a sense directional. The majority of the public won’t be aware of what’s going on the catwalks but high street retailers try to predict what will be hits with the masses and it always seems to be MJ (well, from what I’ve observed in the last few years anyhow). That is in essence, a form of direction. I’m not saying his work is completely amazing or original (unfortunately, the amazing AND original don’t translate well in mass markets) but I can’t ignore his influence either.
i LOVE marc jacobs, he is basically the reason i am so into fashion, if it weren’t for his mod collection (fall 2001?) i wouldn’t be the fashion obessed person i am today
however i was so dissapointed with this colleciton, i saw a few looks that i liked but nothing really stood out, to put it planely i just wasn’t exstatic. i normally think he is one of those designers who so many celebreties and high powered people love but who still creates beautiful clothes and is worth the hype
however, this didn’t feel forward, it reminded me of lacroix, that’s all i could think of (thinking more last spring’s show), and i’m including the lack of luster that comes with seeing a lacroix ready-to-wear