I’ve been fiendishly anti-blogger-normal-speed these past few months, letting S/S 11 collections sink in as opposed to getting quickfire posts out there that proclaim ‘Love!’ without explaining why. Funnily enough though, the importance of asking ‘Why?’ or ‘How?’ about collections this season has diminished somewhat. Many of the S/S 11 collections for me, were not really ground-breaking mood-shifters so much as being accomplished, focused and prettily polished to make way for a fun-filled spring and summer. I feel like there’s a refreshing air wafting about for S/S 11 which is telling me ‘Don’t over analyse it. Just take in the beauty and let the clothes shine.’
Unfortunately the blabbermouth in me just won’t shut up. Even if the crafty choice of fabrics, cuts and the distinct lack of backstory or complex inspiration points are all collectivley motioning for me to pipe down.
Case in point, Proenza Schouler’s S/S 11 collection in contrast to their last A/W 10-11 collection was decidedly free of backstory. From disenfranchised schoolgirls hanging out in the basketball courts in Christopher Wool-esque scribbles to the deceptively simple exercise of desirable fabrication and plays on ladylike attire, is a bit of a jump. Still, honing in on fabric techniques and allowing those details to stand out is no less worthy. Thankfully I got a properly good eyeful at the show and then the final affirmation that the details are what make this collection a triumphant favourite came later in the showroom.
The fact that there‚Äôs no particular overarching theme (though if you are hell-bent on them, you could read it all as Upper Eastside ladies-who-lunch gone bad after one too many fondant fancies), other than fabric wizardry, lingerie-inspired details and plays on convention has not hurt the collection one bit, evident by the eye-candy of details…
Cleverly, these are the same qualities that will slay customers when they see the pieces in-store. A hook and eye in yellow, the v-stitching on the neck of a shirt, the fibres in the tweed with each colour purposely visible and pronounced as though a highlighter has been used to dab in the neon, chains woven in and out of grosgrain trims and even the distressing of fabric which contrasts with the hardness of the hook and eye fixtures.
How did sequins get a refresher? By not being traditional sequins as tiny discs were cut out of sheets of industrial plastic and laid into patterns that look more like pixels on a Ceefax page, rather than just being serving the purpose of being shimmery and shiny.
Then there’s the much-talked about shibori fabric that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have made their own. I’ve picked up a few shiori tops and scarves in charity shops that can often look a little dated – female gallerists of the 80s-90s’ fabric of choice if you will. Here in shades of soft peach, lilac and neon smudged with black ink-blots incarnations as tops and casual t-shirt dresses, they become a rejuvanated incarnation of an age-old craft.
Lacquer up lace in bright neon tones and you get a more obvious way of effing up prettiness…
Once the ladies-who-lunch start shedding nubbly tweed layers they strip down to what in my mind are bare essentials… albeit with an extra touch of frou frou and frill that will always feed my junkie-addiction to anything related to lingerie-inspired detailing…
Onto the stuff that I suppose never needed over-analysing in any instance when they become the bread and butter of labels – the accessories Рepecially in the case of Proenza Schouler when terms such as PS1 and PS11 has become part of 21st century fashion lexicon. My bag-a-phobia has only recently recovered but I'm trying not to allow it to descend into an addiction…even when faced with the delectable combination of peach and lilac…
Then there's the jewellery which I assumed was a collaboration with someone but is actually all their own work…I very nearly walked away with this particular leather bracelet/ring hybrid that serves no purpose other than matching very neatly with the Emilio de la Morena power puff blue coat I was wearing…
The grey/purple/gruple fading into peach is probably the colour combination that resonates the most in this collection, perfectly articulated in shoe-form here.
Oh shat… 700 words exactly. A spectacular fail in the act of trying to shut up.
**EDIT** The spillage and outpour of love for this collection continues as the duo have just released their second ad campaign for S/S 11 featuring those delectable fondant fancy colours…
I can’t believe they are sequins! You couldn’t tell that at all! That definitely adds a whole new dimension to the piece. Great post, as usual.
I spotted you at London Fashion Week a few times, looking uber cool as you always do!
Yes, this is a really great post Susie.
There’s not so much interest in fabrics in fashion world right now, and it’s kinda sad.
I like how you talk about fabrics, and I like that you always talk about that.
You always do a great work.
Congrats.
Wow, I’m so in love with all those fabrics, thanks for a great post!
xoxo
http://fashionagony.blogspot.com/
These are amazing photos of SS/11 and I totally agree with you! Great posts and great vocabulary! 😛
Check out what’s going on in my head!
http://www.pardonmemoncheri.blogspot.com
Feel free to comment and maybe follow me!
xx
Attempting to follow in your aim, without over analysing what you’ve written or their collection, I’ll just say: fantastic post!!
Plus: stunning photos (always nice to get another view other than style.com)
You chose my favourite s/s 2011 collection. The use of Pallettes and the “Proenza Schouler style evolutioN” that we cans ee in this collection is something so amazing that I’d like to see this collection everywhere. The clothes, the colors, the prints and the shoes, too….all so gorgeus!!
http://fashiondoesntexist.blogspot.com/
Love the fabric shots
http://thestylecurator.blogspot.com/
I’m so glad you give up-close, detailed shots. The colored hook and eyes are awesome and I really like how the deep scoop neck in the front looks.
Thanks for this great post!!
I fell totally in love with the jewlery and the sh<3es...
😀
i love shibori, i have always wished for an updated take on it..i think the long sleeved version (lain on the table) is the most simple and yet beautiful example..the use of this fabric technique along with the colour..it doesnt need to be much more fussy than that..ihope the high street can catch on in some way
btw susie, despite your reasons we love it more when your gums are running anyway!!
xxxxxxx
Susie, thank you for the fabric shots and your analysis. Makes me feel less weird that I really like reading about those kinds of details.
As in love I am with that sequin detail, my heart belongs to that jewellery. It has an almost Egyptian-esque/scarab beetle look about them.
Great analysis though.
xoxo
I work at anti-blogger extra slow sub speed….I blame the kids.
I love how the collection is incredibly chic and feminine with the suits and all the amazing fabrics but still has that colour palette and the attitude that is so typical for proenza schouler. it’s definitely one of my favorite collections.
hey and, uhm, listen, there is this pop-up shop on what I think is marshall street. it’s near carnaby and it’s called youth club. I was there the other day and some of the accessoires they have really reminded me of you. thought you might like it. but then again you might have already been there since unlike me you live in london 😉
xx from germany
perfection!!
xoxo
http://katerinascloset.blogspot.com/
hi susie, thank you thank you thank you for such a detailed analysis of the collection. this is exactly what i look for from bloggers with the connections to get inside. awesome!!! one thing i’ve been waiting to hear more about re this collection is the undergarments — i believe they are a collaboration with jean yu. did you see these in the showroom? any information about whether they will be available to buy together with the proenza schouler garments?
Yes to lacquered lace.
Gorgeous! Love the lace,the tweed, the sequins, the colours and the shoes! Maybe when you said ‘shut up and look’, you were refering to us,the readers. lol
Everything about this collection is amazing, great post!
Everything here is ever clever. I loved scrolling down and down and down. Reading more and more and drooling more and more. I hope you talk forever.
Ciao ciao Bella Donna
OMG…..omg…it’s neon surfer librarian lunch ladies sipping tea and eating colorful cookies at Bergdorf Goodmans…how’s that!!! Love all the DETAILS and the clothes with the hook and eyes are GORRRRGEOUS and some of the dresses look like they float! THE ACCCESSSSORIES…..get me TOO…Holy BANANAS..I GO CRAZZZZY with their aceessories..ga ga goo goo!!!!!
kisses
xoThe Beckerman Girls
http://www.BeckermanBitePlate.com
This is really a Amazing blog!!! http://www.edgonline.com/
Thanks so much for all the lovely comments on the post… will definitely try and do more detailed posts on collections if I can!
Donna: I believe the lingerie is being sold separately… I did see them in the showroom but only a few pieces…Jean Yu might be selling them herself as she has a boutique in New York…
SUCH a great collection, one of my fav S/S collections for sure. Great evolution of the signature P.S style too. I can’t wait until I can afford to wear their stuff!
Sometimes you need 700 words, I say go with it! Love the rings in particular – would look especially great with a simple, classic outfit..
~el
http://www.whatyoufancy.co.uk
Not to ignore the wonderful 700 words you managed to constrain yourself too, or even to ignore the photos of the PS collection which I very much enjoyed, if you look in the back of the runway photos there are two blonde ladies having a conversation and practically ignoring the models walking by. I recognise one of them. I hate people like this – who take up precious fashion show space and clearly aren’t even interested in seeing the collection! Even if I don’t like the clothes I still look at them – it’s only polite!
Anyway, rant over
xxx
Duck
Duck: I know who you’re talking about and to give them the benefit of the doubt, I’ll just assume they were chatting in between each model’s look…! That said, I have also been at shows where people are on their Blackberry/iPhone throughout the whole show…
I study textile design
so there are some quite interesting pictures here!
thanks for that
I started a new blog, so I’m in a kind of broadcasting tout, and I ended here to your blog.
Mine about fashion, textile, images.
Basically I choose a topic (folk, colours, artists) and I make links between different things i like
it’s in french, so you might not understand whats written, but if its well done, you should get the point. And since I stick with my style, what I like, if you like it once, you’ll like it forever.
check it out if you have some time
thisisfabienne.blogspot.com
Fabienne.
Beautiful!! the fashion designer must have been very talented.