I have a sort of dumb and gawky expression whenever I'm looking at people 'do' things – knit, paint, draw, make clay pots, playing instruments – anything that involves the hands and produces visibly aesthetic-based and audible results. Any skill that I had of that ilk is probably long gone now that I've grown into a lump that sits in front of a computer, light from the screen bouncing off glasses/contact lenses.
I'm pretty sure Paris-based shoe designer Raphael Young wasn't all that impressed with said expression when he was sketching out designs as part of Liberty's Shoe Weekend a fortnight ago. Impromptu and spontaneous drawing isn't easy in front of strangers much less a dork who shoots out weirdly fixed stares. For that I apologise but it was a treat to see Young sketch out freeform shapes that seemingly look like impossible feats when buckled with the realities of physical production. Nay though. Young claims everything he draws is 100% possible even if it means the foot's arched is curved to an extreme degree – I curse my flat-footed-ness…
On show were also the sort of lasts that naturally already prop the foot up 5 inches to suit the extreme structuring that has prevailed in Young's designs.
In one big Young shout-out, I remembered I also visited his then-brand-new store in Paris which I suppose hits the term 'shoe gallery' on the head with all stock framed and suspended on the walls.
I also saw his S/S 11 collection which originally wanted to explore ideas around the African safari but then expanded to a collection that goes further out… like shells on a beach that have been crushed and then lacquered to get this iridescent wedge…
More recognisable safair elements are seen in these printed pony skil lace-ups…
… and the appearance of a 'bear-like' fur is etched into this leather used as both a print as well as a texture.
When feet aren't 100% propped up, they're lowered to this demi-wedge which are made for sand walking…
Young also contributes to the comfort-considerate flat platform shoes of S/S 11 with this shape…
Out of Africa, the shoes take a more metallic turn with a particular shade of sky blue that goes beyond the usual realm of bronze, gold and silve…
I love the curvature of the heel that's emphasised by the gold accent…
I never noticed this on his other shoes but he also has carved an insignia of his brand on the heel with what looks like a Star Trek-inspired symbo…
**EDIT** The Very Simon G asked about Raphael Young's menswear and lo and behold here's a mens trainer with metal grill inserts… I aim to please…