I'm definitely NOT the right person to be articulating the differences between North and South England (the North and South I'm referring to in the title). Hell, I find it difficult just explaining the differences between North and South London. All those cliches are ones that you have to discover yourself and I definitely haven't left London enough to even begin to discern them. (Actually, it seems like North/South in a lot of places is a bit of a higgety pigglety issue… )
I am like a tourist in my own country when I'm up in Manchester (the only Northern place I frequent‚Ķ.) – what's that, what did they say, what did that mean‚Ķ questions that probably irritate the hell out of my friends. With regards to style specifically, I'm all about the questions because I've heard various cliches about the differences in dress between North/South and areas more specific within these broad regions and I also happen to be a sucker . This is getting a bit Brit-specific and I apologise in advance if there are things in this post that go over your head a little. It also does the same thing over mine if it's any consolation…
Therefore, I looked at the launch of the new store Aqua by Aqua in London with great fascination. Aqua by Aqua is a Leeds-based lab which I believe, has a very successful shop in Leeds. The design team have now moved to London to work in the basement of their new store on 12 Fouberts Place which had a big bash opening last night (a 30% discount caused a bit of a bumfight in the changing rooms…).
On first glance, a lot of Aqua's offerings don't look like something I would be into because attached to certain pieces, are some of those aforementioned 'Northern' style cliches. I guess we have to rewind a bit and delve a leeeetle bit into what those cliches are in order for those less familiar with the part and parcel connotations. Some of you may have heard about "wags" and the sort of over-preened culture of dress that this has spawned. Some of you may have heard of the soap Hollyoaks Рfull of Brit babes that shed a little light into parts of 'Northern' culture. I HAAAAATE generalisations with a passion so I'm treading this very carefully Рthere is this wee cliche that girls up North loooove a good night out and that dressing up involves plenty of body conscious dresses, quite a bit of glitter and maybe a spray of fake bake tan. I can't quite ascertain this seeing as I think slap and short skirts are de rigeur in a lot of places… I'm just spouting this from the mouths of others.
Therefore it is with this in mind that we have Aqua Couture, a label that they describe as the 'top of the high street' and certainly prices reflect this (around £50-£150). I'm not keen on the addition of a superfluous 'couture' in the name but I think this has been changed to Aqua by Aqua. The trio behind Aqua РLauren, Jules and Ryan do 12 collections a year so they move with the cycles of fast fashion but they're not necessarily mass-trend driven like the high street. What I found the most interesting though is that their designs seem to embrace the best of what I suppose could be called Northern 'dress culture' Рtheir dresses, bodysuits, jumpsuits Рstriking with colour blocking, pronounced shapes and with power mesh-aplenty are all meant for going out and having a good time in but there's a design sensibility there that separates them from the cheaper options that are available. I also think it's great to have this diversification of the
'independent high street level' that mixes things up from the girly cutesy
frocks that say what next door neighbours Dahlia offer.
You basically get a lot of bang for your buck and depending on styling, combinations and context of course, Aqua's pieces can be taken out of that 'clubber's' PAAAAARTY situation and into a very different place. Their motto that they have gone with is that there is "No More North South Divide" which of course is wishful thinking in the wider context of the country but I guess with regards to their clothing, it might be a challenge to us "Southern Pansies" – that there are in fact design chops up there to be reckoned with? Perhaps it's a reference to something else in which case I'll be sure to get an amendment soon enough.
I was particularly intrigued by the use of mesh, cut-outs and the current palette which involves a lot of nude and fluoro coral. The references to to other collections and cultural phenomena (Lady Gaga being one of them…) – Margiela, Balenciaga, Celine, Lanvin etc can't be avoided and you can see that in the S/S 10 collection below, but then again seeing as Aqua positions themselves as on top of a high street heap then this is part on course. In some cases, I was feeling that if American Apparel really pushed the boat out or if someone did some neat customisation work to some AA pieces, the results would resemble some of Aqua's pieces…
This is their current S/S 10 collection which like I said prescribes to the body-con, the curves, the mesh and a dash of sequins…
There's a discernible transition to A/W 10-11 where the fabrics get more textural and the shapes are looser… still the cut-outs reign supreme… I'm of course drawn to the shade of burnt orange…
So a very Celine-esque leather cropped top….
And a Balenciaga/Givenchy-esque scuba leather crop top…
P.S. When you say Aqua, all I can think of is apart from the obvious Barbie Girl thing is the drink we concocted aged 14 at a drunk sleepover where we mixed Tia Maria with water‚Ķ branding it…TiaMAqua don't.ask.me.why.
Oh gosh, this reminds me: I’m taking you to Liverpool next time you’re up. If you thought Deansgate on a Friday night was a shocker…
Relevant to the post, I do like a lot of these dresses, though they would look obscene on me I suspect. Like your choices too.
Nice tactful treatment of the whole wag concept! Not sure I like a lot of the dresses although a few of the body-con ones are quite interesting. That black one reminds me of the Gucci white cut out dress.
EJ: Take me! I want to see!
JustAnotherLondoner: I’m tactful because I don’t know any better… I can’t be scathing if I don’t know what it is I’m criticising!
Since moving to Switzerland (and during my time in Italy) I realised it’s perfectly ok to go out for drinks without looking like a teeny bopper on prom night. In fact, I always thought it was ok when I lived in Japan and was shocked when I first moved back to the UK to see girls prancing around half naked and extremely drunk. I never really conformed to what fellow students thought was the norm back at Uni, but I have to say, I feel a palpable sense of relief now that I don’t stick out like a sore thumb for trying to look put-together rather than “glam”.
However, if worn well, I think you can wear these dresses without looking like a tart. I actually think the kimono style dress would get a thumbs up from my kimono trader mother!
This is a great post, I loved reading it. Even though I don’t live in London or the UK for the matter, I can see where you are coming from with the difference between the North and South. I particularly like the mustard yellow dress with the wing arms.My Republic of Fashion
That scuba leather crop top && leather shorts are ah-mazing! Great look!
p.s. Lovin’ the scrabble-piece necklaces too…totally want one!
Great blog!
xx
Jen
http://belledecouture.blogspot.com
Susie your choices are amazing! The pieces you left with look great on you. Also, really interesting post. It’s true, there’s a lot of noise about north vs south ..here in Canada it’s a bit more east vs. west, but I think it all boils down to the same thing – pride and generalisations. Though, the stereotypes do exist for a reason I suppose… Nonetheless, Aqua by Aqua looks really interesting. I’m on a bit of a cut outs & mesh trip right now actually, so this is just great! I love the black number with all the cut outs but I’d be most likely to actually wear the looser copper colored top. Not much for uber tight fitting thigns..Also really love the extremely short dress with the higher neckline (ss10) in blue, white and orange & mesh. Gorgeous stuff.
Actually, that Gold-Square=Tee is going to stick in my mind for quite a long time.
Cheers!
Mmmmm I like the orange long dress with the huuuuuuge sleeves. Pssst…I’m from the Leeds way out and every preconception you had about this brand was true. I have been in the store a few times and seen a few OK pieces but a lot of the people I know to be customers are not what I would consider to have style. I may reconsider though and have another venture after seeing the aforementioned orange dress. Yum yum.
Very in like with that wraparound body suit up there. I’ve seen you twice in those sparkly platforms now and I must say I rather like them 🙂
I am also one of those not crazy about the showing skin through holes like the dresses shown.
Though it has nothing to do with the collections, I do love the vintage shorts you’re wearing.
It is always a pleasure reading your post, I am infatuated with your writing style and your reflections on fashion.
I have to agree with you on the WAG/fake bake issue – I’m from Leeds and go to uni in Newcastle and have seen it first hand. However, I hasten to add that not all northerners are infatuated with slap and flesh!
I think it’s a southern thing too in some areas…I may be wrong though. My boyfriend is at Loughborough Uni and quite a lot of his London mates seem to like that kind of look.
(I’m liking the leather crop top by the way)
love your second outfit very much indeed! genius to combine the top with a white shirt =)
and, goodness, the first thing i thought when i read your title was that you were maybe gonna talk about korea
Mmmm… the North/South divide with a fashionable twist. It’s a touchy issue that can be expressed in a multitude of ways – politically, educationally, in regards to money and class – but stereotypes for both sides are often centred around clothing. Essex girls with their white stilettos, Scouse wags in Juicy tracksuits, Yorkshire blokes in flat caps drinking real ale… sound familiar?!
I think one of the frustrations us Northern girls face is the notion that good fashion only happens in London. It’s also extremely hard to break into the industry when you’re based in the North… although I think more and more companies are realising the talent we have up here.
It’s something I feel quite passionately about, as you can probably tell! 🙂
I love the orange dress with the wings and the leather tops are really cool, they looked awesome with the shirts underneath.
You look incredible with the pieces you choose. When I was looking at your first photos featured, I was not in love with the “aqua by aqua” collection. However, if I saw just your photos, I would immediately want to know the designer you were wearing. Again, you have immaculate style.
Dana
The Beso Team
Beso.com
I absolutely love following your blog. You bring the best information and make fashion life in the West so much more interesting. That being said, your aqua by aqua selections are fantastic. The first leather crop top looks impeccable pieces you paired it with. And the bottom piece paired with the shorts and THOSE SHOES…sigh.
If I had a TiaMAqua, I’d toast you right now.
p.s. – scrabble necklace please.
that would be “looks impeccable WITH THE pieces you paired it with”…long day that just needs to end already. Pass the TiaMAaqua.
Love this post and love the dresses, even though i suspect they need to be worn by a skinny and preferably tall girl. The details and the trimmings look very thought through. Great choice of styles too.
http://elenavasilieva.blogspot.com/
agree with Jen (who clearly has a great name) re this:
“I think one of the frustrations us Northern girls face is the notion that good fashion only happens in London. It’s also extremely hard to break into the industry when you’re based in the North… although I think more and more companies are realising the talent we have up here.”
While it’s true the north (although really I’m basing this on Newcastle since that’s where I am) is awash with fakery and a lack of imagination when it comes to style, there are also lots of people who do stand out and are interesting – even without the fashion scene here (and there is one; so many fashion courses/students here!), there are a lot of Northern bloggers and such who are interesting and inspirational but often don’t get the coverage of London based ones. In fact, rather than being a north/south divide, it’s more of a London/everywhere else divide in that sense….?
As for Aqua – some interesting pieces here, and in this collection, but I wonder if the longer, more…not avant-garde, but i’m sure you know where I’m going with this…pieces will go into production as is?
Agree with the AA comparisons. You picked some great pieces!
jenn.x
venturesofjenn.blogspot.com
Jenn: Great points about bloggers but then there are always exceptions… look at Kingdom of Style – she’s from Glasgow and has a very successful/well-covered blog… though being Scotland, would you then count that as a different country?!? Perhaps you’d like to share some of the Northern bloggers you speak of… so that everyone can get a bit click happy?
With regards to to London though… the thing is… and this is just pure fact… that MORE things by way of fashion DO happen here… press launches, press days, sample sales, exhibitions etc… it’s not necessarily fair but I guess that is the way things are distributed and so naturally there will be an inequality in terms of content coverage… that said, I think it’s far more interesting when blogs go very localised and cover hidden things that are going on in their own part of the world… I’m lucky that I live in London but that’s not to say I wouldn’t try and unearth similar things going on if I was living in say Manchester…
Aqua’s designs are all definitely going into production… their brand isn’t like a Topshop where they can just dispose of designs me thinks…
I’ll share a Northern blog with you… mine!
Here’s a link to all my street style photographs:
http://stylerail.blogspot.com/search/label/Street%20Style
So you can see we’re not all orange nutters with bodycon dresses disappearing up our bums!! Lets face it, you’ll find those crazy umpalumpaladies up and down the country, but the North has stylish characters by the bucket load!!
Charlotte xx
I have so much respect for this blog because of posts like this which dont just make assumptions about places. I love that you have never been up north so dont pass any judgement! Im from Newcastle, ive just returned home from a nice meal and a yummy cocktail and have to admit there are some totaly states! BUT we’re not all like that i promise! I have to say london is much more inspiring but there are a lot of gems up north and creative companies are starting to really gain momentum!
My blog is http://windowshopperstyle.wordpress.com/ and I have to admit none of my pictures are from Newcastle because the windows are just too watered down! I think its such a shame as when I go to london, paris and new york its totally inspiring! What do you all think?
Victoria! xxx
Another Northern blog to dispel the horrid stereotype:
http://www.hoyfashion.co.uk/
so many great garments!
Victoria and Lucy – I’m off to your blogs now… xx
Super post! http://bloggamonsta.blogspot.com/ x
Another Northern blog to take a peep at – http://littlebirdfashion.blogspot.com/ 🙂
Hey Suzie! That dress with the gold square in the middle reminds me of those Chinese joss paper for the deceased…>_< I'm not sure if you noticed it. P.S. I love your blog regardless!! =)
Love the blue necklace yet the other necklaces also look awesome!
i really liked the dresses…