Tufting!

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When in San Francisco, I documented the masterclasses that went on during the Arts of Fashion event (still slowly editing the video…) and in the class of Tony Delcampe (director of the La Cambre school) and Laurent Edmond (creative assistant of Maison Martin Margiela) they went mad for ‘tufting’ – meaning a technique used in Chesterfield sofas where the cushioning is created by sticking pins through them. 

I come back though and read an interview with Scottish designer Jamie Bruskil Tetsill and then remember that tufting is a way of working yarns in textiles.  Jamie went tufting mad for his S/S 09 collection and by using black mohair on the garments, from a distance the tufted effect looks like marabou but I’m sure when touching it in person would feel entirely different. When combined with the patterns, the tufting is further elevated with a fantastic judgement of colour, clashing brights where possible and incorporating simple geometric motifs.  Though the shapes of the garments are fairly simple, with the addition of his tufted detailing add a very finite structure to the dresses, like outlining drawings with a chunky black marker (so satisfying, no?).  He plans on making tufting a signature of his so expect more next season. 

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26 comments

  1. Really, really like this…
    I love it when a designer attacks a collection from a “construction technique” point of view, rather than strictly a thematic/mood point of view. I think Christopher Kane falls pretty wholely in that category as well. I guess it’s the technical/sewing side of me coming out 😉

  2. Hm got a bit distracted by the setting of the garments but I did like the texture ‘tufting’ creates – I’m loving the tufting technical speak!

  3. love the last two dresses.
    on an unrelated note: ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FOR TARGET – CAN I GET A HOO-WAAA!

  4. I love this tufting and I was actually thinking about the possibilities of a tu fted DIY before I read this post! Great minds think alike, eh? 😉

  5. This is an interesting detail. It transforms the patterns/colors into something tactile. I want to get closer.

  6. Oooh is this like those contraptions from the craft store? The bed of needles looking thing that comes with a firm brush and you use it to attach felt together? My friend has one of those and it’s so fun. It makes it all fuzzy.

  7. tufting !!!! : )
    nice time with you in SF
    see u soon in Paris !

  8. first time on your blog hun. love it all . very informative and i think ur style and dress sense is amazing. i too dont define my style as one type, i may get up on one day and dress grungy, next day girly , next day slightly dark and nexk cute … i’ll be back here definatly ! xx

  9. I’m in between question marks and infinite dots here…
    I’m not big on the colours combo; colour-strips with the mo hair is not really working for me, perhaps because this is the first time I’ve seen it, my eyes hadn’t fully “adjust”, however, i do like the silhouettes of the dresses (especially the 2nd and 5th)

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