A Dusty Start

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>> When I posted about Silvina Maestro yesterday, what I failed to say was that by no means was I making out like "This is the most AMAAAAZING thing I've seen ever…!".  Actually, let's just get it out there – when you're posting 3+ times a day, not everything will be TOTALLY original, TOTALLY brilliant and TOTALLY super duper unfortunately.  For some posts, I'm merely sowing the seeds of curiosity about a young designer and putting it out there for contemplation.  Like Maestro's first collection which perhaps doesn't say everything she wants to say about her as a designer, I'm likewise holding out on gushy praise about Franziska Fuerpass and George Bezhanishvili's first womenswear collection given that I can only go on one silhouette for the moment.  Fuerpass and Bezhanishvili are based in Vienna, Austria an if you do a bit of Google work on their names individually, I think I gathered they have worked individually as standalone designers.  They have come and joined forces and dropped me a sneak preview of one garment (photographed here by Andreas Waldschuetz) from their collection which they're presenting at a forthcoming arts and fashion competition in Bilbao.  So quite literally, this is a singular seed that forms the basis of their collection and of course will need a further re-assessment once the whole collection is available to see.  

Inspired by Louise Bourgeois' work, the duo have used bleached tapestry with a ruffled surface to mould voluminous shapes around the body with deliberately raw edges, padded necks, pockets and emphasised shoulders breaking up the sensual draping.  Every piece in the collection is supposed to be a collage and whilst someone mentioned Michael van der Ham when talking about Silvina Maestro's work, van der Ham's collaging techniques evolve into something more seamless and less patchworky here.   

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Apparently there are also other textures at play in the other silhouettes… lamb's wool, structured organza, mohair, leather and recycled fur… I'm hoping the dusty colours that the duo have injected into their first dress remains in the rest of the collection because the texture together with that dusky pink back immediately made me recall yet another Dazed editorial (this could be work withdrawal symptoms at play here?), from the February 2010 issue, photographed by Ben Toms and styled by Katie Shillingford.  I've really been feeling these colours that whilst technically could be called pastel, sound a lot better in my head when I call them 'dusty'… pale colours that are dulled somewhat by an imaginary settled layer of chalk dust…. 

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34 comments

  3. This Fuerpass and Bezhanishvili piece is pretty incredible, I’m really impressed in the texture and colors of the fabric. I love the way it’s been manipulated and bunched and sewn, I can’t wait to see more!
    I’ve been doing the same thing lately too, calling pastels ‘dusty’ but maybe there is a bit of a different quality to these shades, like you said imagining them covered in chalk dust, or perhaps it’s just how they’re presented in editorials like the dazed one?

  6. Chloe: That’s because all the pieces are by Burberry Prorsum…sorry to clarify…the LAST TWO PICS are part of an editorial from Dazed Feb 2010 issue…

  9. *love*ing that hat! Not so sure about the dress… Also, “dusty” is definitely the new pastel. Your face in the OED.
    xx
    Duck

  11. its very interesting. not too wearable for me- but its always fun with unique new designs..
    hope youre doing great dear. sorry i havent visited you in a while.
    xx ediot

  18. Wow, these are certainly very interesting and creative pieces! Great choice of fabric and color. Louise Bourgeuois work is so inspirational. Anyway thanks so much for this post!!!

  20. love the finals photos but wondering about some missing post here, where i posted some comment what hapent?
    thepinktinyelephant.blogspot.com

  24. I just found your blog! AND i want to say that I love love your style. Being a mummy and all too, I love it that you’ve incorporated really practical and comfy shoes and still look awesome!

  28. love it, its as if the clothes have alife of their own and are taking over like vine weed.

  29. Can someone help me?
    I have no idea how I can change my avatar. Or get pictures from other places and make that my avatar.
    Can someone please help me.
    Thank you.

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