Sports Punch

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You'd think I'd be banging on about the white wash that has been poured over a lot of the New York  shows thus far but me thinks it's still too early to tell before we're all putting on bright whites that my mother would yell at me for buying ("But it will get DIRTY!").  Instead though, I thought I'd punch this out and say that the sportswear and activewear influences from the past two seasons have come out stronger and harder this season through the collections of Ohne Titel and Katie Gallagher.  

I can't quite fathom why Ohne Titel aka Flora Gill and Alexa Adams, haven't hit those dizzy heights that other New York duos have but perhaps slow and steady works for them because on a crazily sunny Saturday morning, they basically woke up bleary eyed me with a pow pow pow collection.  Yes, that's three pows and yes a collection like this needs onomatopoeia.  Whilst they cite the Japanese woodcut artist Utagawa Kuniyoshi as their initial reference point, what manifests is instead a clever blending of hardcore scuba gear (as opposed to flirty surf girls…), F1 racing uniforms and Alaia-esque knitwear that plays up their own knit-based strength that they have nurtured over the seasons.  You get a wack of sporty sleekness through the neoprene bodysuits and the colour blocking that recall the good aspect of 80s shellsuits, but then it all goes nicely off-kilter with the introduction of the exaggerated belted waists and the layering, not to mention the statement perspex jewellery by Tauba Auerbach.  I also like that the one time a bag appeared, it looked like it meant business – something you could wack over someone that was trying to mug you.  

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Another punch came quite literally from a boxing glove that was on Katie Gallagher's inspiration wall.  On a more extreme and rightfully less refined (this is only Gallagher's third season…) scale, I loved that Gallagher went for a more streamlined look than the last season.  I also loved that it all came from something as simple as the fact that she loved running.  This therefore trickled down into the fabrics and cuts juxtaposed, though you would have unlikely appearances of silk, suede and mottled textured leather in pieces that had a whiff of something sporty though you could never put your finger on what it was.  I loved the ornately sporty takes on the things that I wear as staples, such as the cycling shorts, crop tops and leggings.  She very kindly let me have a sneaky peek before the show as well and once I saw the piece on the models, it was pretty much a done deal for me.  Oh, and yes, hopefully the square lacquer bags are going into production… 

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26 comments

  2. Both collections are pow pow pow gorgeous!Interestingly, even though both tend towards a sporty feel, their collection shows a distinctive difference in character.
    Ohne Titel’s collection’s eludes this sense of strength and certainty while Katie Gallagher’s collection has this womanly vibe with the clever use of fabrics and fluid curves. Love!

  9. I like the brown jacket.
    I always find it really interesting to see designers inspiration boards and to then see the final collection.

  10. Yes Katie Gallagher has the pow-pow. My lord I want those red cycling shorts and the black dress. Thanks for up-close photos taken in good light.

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  17. Wow wow wow, I love the Katie Gallagher pieces! Just looked her up for more.

  19. That Ohne Titel collection is HOT. The neoprene reminds me of a superheroine’s costume. So cool! And the Speed Racer-inspired outfits were awesome too. 🙂

  24. Those are okay but they are really different but they are cool! R u in the last couple of pictures?

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