Groucho Antics

I'm quite happy to say that today has mostly been spent going through fashion week photos, stopping to THINK about the things I saw as opposed to seeing them in a whirlwind, only to go onto the next appointment in a craze-haze.  As you probably know, S/S 11 coverage here isn't gonna be fed to you all in mahussive bouts… but with such a short season (good lord, is A/W 11 JUST around the corner???), it will have to be pushed out sharpish.  Hmm… can you guys handle four posts a day?!?  I'll try and restrain myself…

Anyhow, I must stop dwelling on a LFW where I was phlegming and bleeding and instead remember why it jolted and awoke my senses, seeing the people I know, love and have banged on about for an age.  One of them is Cooperative Designs who probably needs no introduction to those that have read the blog for a while.  I'm on my happy knitwear rant today with Yang Du providing cartoon antics and Annalisa Dunn and Dorothee Hagemann going into a direction that retains their Bauhaus graphic lines whilst adding a touch of thematic dramatics that really pushes this collection to another level.  S/S 11 ' Bollywood Babylon' actually doesn't have too much to do with Bollywood but is inspired by Kenneth Anger's book 'Hollywood Babylon' as well as the film adapation of Agatha Christie's 'Death on the Nile'.  When in doubt, turn to Christie and ye shall find a heap of period camp that is sure to rev up inspiration…

Which explains why during LFW, I found myself at Groucho Club where the duo held their presentation in suitably louche settings.  All velvet, mahogony and cocktails that give off powerful vapours…

With models smiling and sultry, Cooperative Designs' newfound elegant direction was perfectly showcased.  The longer lines of the dresses, kaftans, kimonos and slouchiness of the harem trousers and cropper jumpers gave off a sensual vibe not previously seen.  The signature art deco pattern making has been incorporated with some visible 'c' branding and pepped up with well-judged colour combinations and enrichened by raffia and beading textures.   In amongst all the 20s/30s references though is a take on the decade/period that is extremely modern and not at all costume-like.  Borrowing the styling and the 'feel' of the decade lends a glamour that goes hand in hand with the duo's aesthetic. 

I'd be quite happy to be 'c' and 'd'-ed up Cooperative style… an instance of clever logo-ing…

Varied casting this season was somewhat of a story, working to varying degrees but Valerie here deserves special mention… looking both young and old at the same time… but above all, looking MARVELLOUS in the Cooperative pieces…

As per the name Cooperative, this collection took a lot of co-operating with other parties to make it happen… such as Amy Gwatkin's striking photography of the show and lookbook…

Set designer Alex Cunningham made these faux glasses and lorgnettes… someone needs to bring them back no? 

TWEE, a Dutch duo that makes leather accessories out of reclaimed leather made these leather belts and arm wraps…

Surprises of all surprises, Cooperative Designs got together with Flip Flop and with designer Dan Harrison, made these raised wedges with crochet thongs… going into production?  Please say yes…

In the spirit of all things cycle-themed thanks to Boris and Barclays, I also loved this collaboration with Brompton Bicycle.  Not weather proof perhaps but all the colours would look glorious on a day like today when bikes were RIFE along the canal…

Finally, of course, Corrie Williamson's distinctive jewellery which compliments Cooperative Designs' clothes perfectly also plays a part.  I *think* this image is from the collection for the duo, looking at the styling, but it could also be from her own collection…

As a tidbit for the boys, Cooperative Designs have also done a capsule collection for Aertex.  The shirts have been given an individual screen-print treatment that sees their graphic lines on the classic Aertex tees and polos.  I'd love to see the duo applying their aesthetic and techniques to other collaborations after seeing their work they did for Italian knitwear label Stefanel's 50th anniversary.  Bring on more co-operative action I say!