All That Sparkles: Rodarte

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Last season's collections exuded the feeling that we needed to escape, have fun and not let things get so complicated.  Cue Prada's holiday vibes, Marc Jacobs' St Tropez easy breezy looks and Jil Sander's palette that was made to be sun drenched.  Then a few of the key collections in New York for A/W 11-12 again made me think of taking a road trip but instead of sunny hotspot destinations, we're heading for atmospheric and moody parts of America – isolated and in an idealistic world, untainted. 

Every review has called Rodarte's latest collection a story of light – rising, flooding over landscape at midday and setting at dusk, how it effuses in the American plains.  Whilst Days of Heaven may been the specific Terrence Malick film reference, it made me think of other Malick films – still, meandering and ultra sensitive to natural settings which is what this collection was for me. 

All the better then to sprinkle the Swarovski sparkle about either liberally or in small touches to play around with light effects, adjusting each piece so that it makes sense in their inspiration story that the Mulleavy sisters are always so adept at telling. 

First though, let's get the corn fields out of the way, the sweeping dresses that were so unexpectedly fluid, going completely against the grain of the multi-faceted collages that the sisters have built up in previous collections.  I got a bit enthusiastic about the hem lines which wafted about on the catwalk…

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It was ostensibly more what our minds picture when we think of American country dress when it came to a lot of the pieces in the collection.  More often than not, I thought of old Gunne Sax dresses that I would find in countless eBay vintage searches except Rodarte's pieces were infinitely more neat, made precise and of course texturally more complex than the appearance of that classic shape of nipped in waists and full skirts would suggest.  

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I loved that long coats were a strength in the collection meaning that Rodarte now have an outerwear offering that will no doubt add fuel to their path to becoming more than a duo that just makes hand crafted one-off and hard-to-find, objet d'art dresses.  Collars worked into dresses and the coats that exposed the decolletage are of course more than welcome as it added an interesting focus point to what could have been just a straight forward coat or shirt. 

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The signs of their previous displays of collage and arts n' craft skills were present in the leather applique dresses that reminded me of Arts and Craft-style furniture wood inlays.  I liked how the leather patchwork sat on top of a fluid dress to ensure that everything still had a soft touch about it. 

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The more apparent shimmer was seen one one of the showpieces that played into their light story – is it morning dew or that light that comes around midday when everything is so bright you can't even open your eyes? 

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Little touches that were not immediately apparent also adorned the backs and sides of pieces, again used to catch light but also seemed to reflect some 50s-70s vintage clothing inspirations that some of the pieces had taken on.  There's a sort of old-fashioned familiarity to this sort of detailing that might recall vintage frocks most people will have come across, except these details have been transferred to Rodarte's aesthetic and paired with cut-out pieces that are wholly unexpected.

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Even when Swarovski wasn't involved, sequins and beading shimmered from beneath skirts, once again diffusing light to fit the storyboard…

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If all of this was getting a bit simpering and nicey nicey, airy fairy then a shot of red ought to snap the collection out of its light-filled lull as we were hit with a fitted jacket paired with a red sequin skirt that had clusters of Swarovski gems dotted about.  Don't ask me why Dolly Parton came to mind instead of Dorothy of Wizard and Oz and her ruby red slippers.  Clearly seeing too many shows can formulate some jacked up references in my head.

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There should have been instant repulsion from my end because of the amount of red but somehow, I was left wondering whether sparkly red was the last colour/texture taboo that I somehow must try to break. 

*This is not an advertorial but support to see this show was provided by Swarovski

32 comments

  1. One of my favourite collections from NYFW if only I had the view that gave you these amazing images I love your commentary many thanks

  6. So this means I will have to hold on to my crotcheted dress and make another one right? I did not like the fit of the clothes on the models but the clothes themselves were exceptional!

  9. Absolutely loved this collection and everything that it implies about where Rodarte is going…
    And yes, sparkly red is the final frontier. Go forth, boldly.

  11. Susie,
    As always great review. I found the collection inspiring and with a quaint, vintage-y vibe. The type of clothes middle americans would wear, which there is nothing wrong. I love the sparkles juxtaposed with more seemingly mundane, tamed fabrics. I like the path these two sisters are heading. I see great things for their future.
    Jimmy
    http://www.delastyle.blogspot.com

  13. it’s funny, susie. i find this collection to be a complete 180 from the graphic horror references they’ve become synonymous with. this prairie theme was romantic, and light.

  15. so I guess I’m the only one who didn’t like the collection? I’m not really a fan of Rodarte anyway, and this collection kind of solidified that. I found it underwhelming and, for women who are renowned for their experimentation and intricate fabric manipulation, it seems half finished. Anyone?
    http://www.thearchitecturalbody.blogspot.com/

  16. Not in love with this one from the mulleavy’s I think its a bit of a step back after last season. I don’t mean to be a whinger just that I always look forward to rodarte heaps and was a little disappointed. You know what it’s like hey?
    Do you find that it’s difficult to-ing and fro-ing between the really innovative graduate shows and the sometimes slightly bland designer collections? Sometimes I think I live in a fantasy world where manufacturing costs and sales-floors don’t exist and it’s just everyone wearing awesome creative stuff
    xx
    http://winnsomesmile.blogspot.com

  20. This show is really different fromt he other rodarte’s shows. It is a bit more “quit” and mature, I find that the prints and the silhouette are amazing. Then, the shapes (squared) on the minidresses are the “rodarte” touch….however I don’t really like this hsow I prefer the “old rodarte”…
    http://fashiondoesntexist.blogspot.com/

  21. This is actually the first collection by Rodarte that I’ve really liked. It also happened to be my favorite this season.

  22. Awesome review and thanks for the detailed photography. All the details are what make the collection so amazing… the contrast between this middle america ‘prairie’ vibe and extravagant bead work and silks are spot on. Love it!

  23. Wow, vintage and country inspired; very American Wild West. Truly evokes another era and refreshing in that it’s far removed from any trends I can think of.

  26. What a great collection! I am a huge fan of it! Great use of color and details…
    shopmonica.blogspot.com

  27. Oh, this is really good. Perfect really.
    Who is the man in the hunter green tie? That’s what I want to know.

  31. Likely….. A lot of useful information in those links, thanks. Awesome review and thanks for the detailed photography. All the details are what make the collection so amazing.. I feel that it might even be too much for me to “digest” in just one week. Thanks for sharing this post so much.
    http://www.milanomodelsfactory.com/

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