>> “Teenager’s trousers” – this was the sartorial Shangri-La that we were collectively trying to obtain in 1994 aged 10. We’d rid ourselves of our childish printed leggings or in my case, novelty matching tracksuit ensembles printed with bootleg Sanrio characters and go into Tammy Girl or New Look and get ourselves a pair of black trousers that were wide-legged, sophisticated and make us look like we’re proper teenagers. There was no way my mum would/could ever afford to take me into Tammy Girl and so I’d make do with adapted black trousers that she found in her stash of 70s/80s relics. They had the look if not the label.
This pre-teen fixation has returned as in quick succession, I’ve been going back to black with a renewed interest in proper pairs of black trews. The high-waisted heavy cotton specimens by Christophe Lemaire bought in The Other started me off. With Lemaire’s recent departure from Hermès, it leaves him better off to concentrate on that “core” wardrobe ideal that makes his eponymous label so interesting. These trousers are stiff and utilitarian – perfect for pairing up with fussy tops. Turns out I’m re-interpreting that go-to formula for a messy night out. Smart black trews with a spangly something-something from Miss Selfridge.
The trousers that I’m likely to pull on most frequently are J Brand’s black cord flares, endearingly named after Ali McGraw’s turn in Love Story. They look teensy but the ounce of stretch in them makes these flares workhorse-like. These are Capital Lettered flares with a dramatically angled flare shape from the knees. A far cry from the wishy-washy wide-legged shape of teenage trews that we favoured in 1994.
To complete the trio, I bought J W Anderson’s wool trousers, weighted and made structural with exaggerated looped cuffs. I love that they drag the floor harking back to another teenage fashion flashback – baggy jeans that would be so damaged at the hems with mud-soaked shreds of denim torn off as badges of honour. Except here, the excess of fabric is gathered up into purposely awkward giant turn-ups.
Jupe by Jackie embroidered tulle top, Comme des Garcons sleeves, Rochas heels worn with Christophe Lemaire trousers from The Other
Jenny Fax net cape, Prada sleeveless jumper, Miu Miu shoes worn with J Brand 722 Love Story flares