Ghosts of a Collector's Past

>> I hit many firsts last week and over the weekend as I’ve been reporting on menswear shows for Dazed Digital.  Some of the firsts were good, some not so good. Despite my typing abilities being thoroughly spent, it’s hard not give props to some of those firsts that really gave me the chills.   Givenchy menswear for A/W 15-6 with the bonus of some specially created womenswear looks was a good first.  And it did give me some serious chills.  From Riccardo Tisci’s obsessions as a collector of Mexican carpets, skulls and mystical jewellery came a welcome walk on the darkside that steered clear of the heavy sportswear and streetwear influences that have come to define the menswear in most people’s minds.  It’s hard not to be swung by a strong narrative and this show had it in spades.  Tisci noted after the show that he was at a point where he was currently incredibly happy with what he’s doing and that he felt free enough to just put everything he loved into the collection.  So the references were numerous and sprawling, as objects from all over the world fed auras their into the collection.  That feeling was echoed in The American Horror Story-esque assembly of objects of old TV’s, furniture and spooky dolls in the set.  I’m a sucker for thrift/junk shop vibes and being inspired by objects of significance, especially when in Tisci’s case, inspiration literally came from his own home.  As for the clothes – they were the carriers of all the traits that Tiscis has blessed Givenchy with, making it the house with resonance and relevance that it is today – dark and brooding tailoring, eerie romance, eye-baiting prints and yes, a smidge of that sporty streety stuff (although I’m loving the fact that Tisci has shifted ever so slightly away from the use of a mere printed sweatshirt).   Pat McGrath’s painstakingly painted and collages masks on a few of the models completed this joyously macabre tale.  It’s Givnechy as a haunted house (or should that be maison?) ride – one that you wouldn’t mind going round and round in forever, should you be able to afford its wares.



















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