Waist of Metal

Waist of Metal

>> Who wudda thunk you'd see this image pop up chez Style Bubble?  Why, it's the image that has littered so many moodboards, Tumblrs and inspiration desktop folders of the past decade, so much so that I'll even know if I've seen a slightly different pose or stance of Mossie in this outfit.  It seems to have reared its silver slipped head again in New York as many a show – Rag & Bone, Jason Wu, Helmut Lang (although 90s redux is a no-brainer for the latter) – have gone born slippy.  The diaphanous liquid metal properties of this particular slip ensemble though paved the way for a more tricked-out outing at Altuzarra though.  

6a01543409ba67970c0162fc3f19cf970d-800wi

It was a show that had echoes of why his S/S 13 show worked so well for me.  Taking the utlitarian and making it look polished, complex and incredibly expensive.  Then going for broke when it came to evening wear.  Remember the miles and miles of embroidered, gem-encrusted, tassel-festooned silk scarves wrapped around into sumptuous evening dresses?  The accoutrements may have been toned down for S/S 14 but the spangle is no less present.  What seems like miles and miles of liquid metallic silk ooze their way around the body, first on deceptive dresses, where the top half is a nonchalent thin knit, vaguely resembling a cosy thermal and the bottom half is a thigh-high split skirt with fabric gathering in at the waist.  Dare I say there's a nod to Sharon Stone's Gap skirt n' Vera Wang skirt Oscar combo there?  God, I hope it is (I'm no Oscar outfit lexicon but that one does rank high up there just for that pure contrast).  Then they culminate in "proper" gowns that recall another NYFW muse du jours, Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy.  

The real talking point though in this pool of liquid metal is the volume applied specifically to the waist.  The silk is deliberately gathered and bunched so that there's a metal swaddle of fabric concealing the pockets at the front.  As already noted in the Style.com review, ladies who lunch, the sort that might be Altuzarra's customer may not want to errr… display just how much they've had for lunch.  For the sheer decadence of it though, I happen to love the extra volume spilling about the waist.  Why is it that we've become so trained in the eye to smooth down the bulges and create these rigorously flat stomachs in apparel?  Altuzarra spoke of seeing the beauty in "imperfection" in his press notes and whilst I'd hardly call the women he showed to be slubby slobs, at the least they had a don't-care-air about them.  High powered female CEOs with spendthrift tendancies may be Altuzarra's niche but I definitely applaud his own particular sort of whimsy.  

IMG_0126

IMG_0129
IMG_0127

IMG_0130

IMG_0138

IMG_0128

IMG_0139

IMG_0133

IMG_0136

20 comments

Leave a comment
  1. WOWS

    2013-09-08 at 2:58 PM

    Love those metallic fabrics!
    Kisses from
    http://www.withorwithoutshoes.com
    Today I show you my last Favourite amazing leather pieces….from MUUBA A/W 2013 Collection!!.

  2. Hope

    2013-09-08 at 4:17 PM

    Love the metallics. Not sure they are a day to day thing though….H x
    http://www.hopesgone.blogspot.com

  3. Helena

    2013-09-08 at 4:26 PM

    Such a talented designer! I usually think of kitschy, nineties evening dresses at the mere mention of metallics; I was so surprised when Altuzarra managed to pull it off in such a casual, yet sophisticated way! X

  4. allie

    2013-09-08 at 7:34 PM

    great post, I’m loving metallics this season, and it seems I will be next season too!
    tie-dye-eyes

  5. FashionSnag

    2013-09-08 at 8:31 PM

    Love metallics!

  6. FashionSnag

    2013-09-08 at 8:32 PM

    Love that dress Kate is wearing.
    http://www.FashionSnag.com

  7. EUGENIA

    2013-09-08 at 9:45 PM

    THESE ARE DEFINITELY MEMORABLE LOOKS. ALL THE METAL MIXED WITH STRETCHY COTTON, REALLY LOVE IT.
    PERSONAL BLOG OF A FASHION STYLIST
    http://www.diamondsandspikes.com/

  8. milex

    2013-09-09 at 12:55 AM

    perfectly done 😉

  9. Denisa

    2013-09-09 at 8:42 AM

    Interesting collection. Great day.
    http://www.fashiondenis.com/

  10. ChamaFashion

    2013-09-09 at 10:59 AM

    I love metallic!!
    XO CHAMAFASHION
    http://www.chamafashion.com/

  11. Sofies closet

    2013-09-09 at 11:02 AM

    That’s such a cool collection!! I love metallic 😀

  12. clara

    2013-09-09 at 5:40 PM

    metallic is really a cool statement if you can pull it of. !!

  13. MARIE LUN-SIN

    2013-09-09 at 5:40 PM

    When the sun is away , let’s have heat by shining ..

  14. Ali Mackin

    2013-09-09 at 6:31 PM

    Yes it seems the spring shows could be summed up as minimalist 90s : O well ok not exactly and oh yeah big fan of the liquid metal look.
    Ali of Dressing Ken

  15. rachel

    2013-09-09 at 10:54 PM

    This was a great collection; I really enjoyed the liquid metal as well- looks super expensive but also comfortable! http://www.sadieraeandco.com

  16. Juliane at Modern Mural

    2013-09-09 at 11:28 PM

    Absolutely decadent. I love how the drape of the dress makes the gold flow almost like lava.

  17. Boxer's Adventures

    2013-09-10 at 1:40 AM

    Great spread! Thanks,
    xoxo
    the rag & bone intern
    http://boxersadventures.com

  18. Rebecca

    2013-09-11 at 3:32 AM

    I love that photo of Kate Moss!! I really liked the collection, too.
    rafwillyolivier.blogspot.com

  19. Kim

    2013-09-11 at 10:47 PM

    Simpely gorgous !

  20. ubfashions

    2013-09-13 at 3:27 AM

Leave a Comment