Kinder Aggugini's design C.V. is pretty impressive – Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Calvin Klein, John Galliano and a hefty seven year stint at Versace – but for me his solo own label work has never properly clicked.  It could well be the case that Aggugini's ghost designing prowess at so many houses, has meant that finding his design niche with his own label has been more of a slow burner.  That could just be me though.

That said, eight or nine seasons for a designer is still a relatively short period of time and finally with this A/W 12-3, there has been some clicking action going on between my brain and Kinder Aggugini.  Alright, so I am a sucker for print but it's how he combined his cowboy motifs with A-line school uniform-type silhouettes and traditional Savile Row fabrics that really propels this collection.  On his press notes Aggugini cited "appropriation" as a theme for the collection.  To be fair, what collection ISN'T about appropriation these days?  At the very least, Aggugini is brazen about it and comes up trumps with a print motif that reminds me of blue and white porcelain, vintage 50s cowboy wallpaper and old Hermes scarves all at once. Weirdly, for a collection that's about appropriation, there's nothing here that feels tiresome or hackneyed.  Apologies if I'm late to the Aggugini game but if he's going to be creating more unexpected sartorial mixes like this cowboy winner, I promise I'll be deathly loyal.  














Ten points for collaborating with Stephen Jones on the Stetson hats (Jones is determined to see us all obscuring our faces under big hats next season) and another ten points on creating these loafers with Dr. Martens that come with a splay of gold tassels.  


Comments (20)

  1. Laura Logan says:

    I was at this show too, it was amazing! I loved the retro style with the hats and loafers against the hip hop and RnB playing over the top.
    My show report is here

  2. Gingerrsnap says:

    Oh wow! These outfits are amazing! And incredibly interesting xx

  3. Serdane says:

    I really appreciate this universe and of course the print ! The prints are just fantastic !

  4. Dasha Gold says:

    Wow, loving the prints! Beautiful blog as always
    Dasha Gold

  5. Stef says:

    I attended the show too and have to admit that my favourites were the dark blue & gold lace dresses, without a doubt not the most controversial thing on show but that’s what I would rescue out of a burning atelier…

  6. Deadly Bite says:

    Yup. Those Dr. Martens are super cool! 😀
    Love! xx

  7. Wow I’m not a super print person but i really like the collection.

  8. Nastya K says:

    Nice prints! Thank you for photos! Have a nice day!xx

  9. Thea vintage says:

    Love the prints! Nad cowboy prints manke it so fun!

  10. Melanie says:

    I really like this collection and the cowboy hat in particular. Fun and serious. The skirts are so structured they remind me of a neoprene Mary Katrantzou piece.

  11. Olga (F & C) says:

    I love the pictures and outfits. The print details you are showing are absolutely amazing!

  12. Olga (F & C) says:

    I love the pictures and outfits. The print details you are showing are absolutely amazing!

  13. Super Great Cowboy Print…The Cowboy come so strong =)
    You can check my GUCCI-MAJE Outfit in:
    XOXO from Munich
    La Vie Quotidienne

  14. Suzi says:

    Love this! Right up my alley. At some stage Susie, I wouldn’t mind asking you some questions so I can complete a special feature of you and your AMAZING blog on my blog-For the love of Audrey.
    Suzi x
    For the Love of Audrey

  15. Emma says:

    I love Kinder A. I’ve sold a fair few of his early pieces in the past – when he was working just under the name Kinder – and the quality and attention to quirky detailing is just superb. LOVE those prints.

  16. Niki says:

    Wow, thanks for introducing me to Kinder Aggugini! Beautiful prints and structure!

  17. I really enjoy some of these, especially the second outfit… !!!! thank you for the coverage.

  18. Jane Alisa says:

    What a beautiful collection, I adore the prints. xoxo

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