Made Abroad

Made Abroad

There were two awesome parties going on Saturday night.  One was down in my hotel lobby at the Tribeca Grand.  The other was in my head, a continual buzz of high after seeing a trio that had transplanted themselves to Milk Made.

For those not familiar with New York Fashion Week's schedule structure.  Basically you have all the razzy dazzy shows up at the Lincoln Centre, a scattering of them dotted around galleries in Chelsea, a few off site shows in wildly downtown/uptown locations and then a concentration of cool happening at Milk Studios, what was formerly known as Mac Milk is now rebranded as Milk Made schedule.  It's also the place where I happen to spend most of my NYFW week because season after season, they welcome up and coming designers into their fold and provide them with the infrastructure to put on a show or a presentation.  You end up with a mix of semi-established, up and coming as well as static accessories designers showing their wares.  It's a lot of bang for your buck basically.   

On Saturday, Milk Made welcomed two new designers into their circle, both from out of town, not that it matters a jot.  This is New York of course, city of opportunity and new beginnings.  Calla from Paris (originally from Canada), Ostwald Helgason from London (originally from Iceland and Germany) join Dean Quinn, ex-resident of London (originally from Ireland) to form a trio of out-of-towners that together made my night.  Search all of them on the sidebar to the right, and ye will find multiple posts on all of them dating back to the early days of Style Bubble when images were a lot smaller and words peppered with one too many exclamation mark. 

Still, I feel like reverting to bad habits!!!!!!!!  I was well and truly excited to see all of them evolve and excite the crowd in New York.  The openness of the presentations basically means anybody who's vaguely interested can walk in and check it out, so there was a lot of raw enthusiasm with people bouncing from one room to the other on the eight floor. 


First up was Calla, whose feminine and abstracted digital prints I've always had a soft spot for.  She hasn't strayed too far from that territory and if anything the Leith Clark's styling accentuated the girlish charm of Calla Haynes's print work which this season distorted wood grains and granite flecks so that they almost looked like florals from afar or torrid ink blots on wet paper.  The wood grain background in the set, which also looked like a silk moire (a fabric which she has successfully used in the past) really boosted the static presentation and made you want to step right into this candy pink corner, mixing and matching Calla's prints.  They work in tandem with one another or as solid monochramtic print too and with simple dresses, trousers and covetable items like a shearling biker jacket, adding to Calla's signature built-in bustier dress, this was a more than competent "Hello" to the New York crowd. 












Arguably, Dean Quinn's presentation caused the most fuss with the least number of silhouettes.  Thirteen dresses that have reduced his eye from detailing from the overt to the subtle (see my early posts of Dean Quinn's graduate work and you shall find a giant leap from then and now).  Zippers were the central motif here and gave the silk crepe dresses an energy, to take away any notions of mere red carpet material (although, I'm sure Quinn's work will find their way on to some starlet or another soon).  Apparently, his S/S 12 collection has been flying off the racks in Barneys.  This might have something to do with his smart pricing with nothing bieng over $1,000.  That's pretty much a reasonable price when it comes to high-end designer dress leagues.  I'm only slightly disappointed that his breakout didn't occur in London but still, New York have welcome him with open arms and it's working for him so I can only see an onward and upward rise from here on end. 












Ostwald Helgason are new to the Milk Made schedule and made a banging start with what I think is their best presentation yet.  Their collections that are shown at the London Fashion Week exhibition have been quietly gaining momentum, picking up stockists like Opening Ceremony.  I've already logged in a huge personal order for S/S 12 just because they seem to pick up on the oddest textural detailing and motifs.  Last season it was cork and laminated dried hydrangeas.  This season, it's nautical stripes and sea monsters.  Looking at old antique maps and Nordic seafaring tales, Susanne Helgason and Invgar Ostwald honed in on the nautical stripe and spliced them into neat little shifts and flared hem skirts, adding unexpected colours that you might not associate with the oft-used nautical theme.  The sea monsters appeared as an illustration on sweatshirts and some seriously covetable knitwear bulked out this precise collection.  The waffle knits did have a Jonathan Saunders feel to them except the duo used effective colour combinations that really make them the sort of winter warmers that you'd wear over and over again. 

















Leave a comment

    2012-02-13 at 1:41 PM

    Those striped trousers are a winner! Gorgeous colours and a gorgeous, sleek design.


    2012-02-13 at 1:45 PM

    ALSO love the white polo-neck styling which is a little Jil Sander-esque. The other 2 designers aren’t doing much for me at all though.

  3. anna

    2012-02-13 at 1:45 PM


  4. Serdane

    2012-02-13 at 2:35 PM

    I love these colors, this touch of spring summer on the collection !

  5. amanda

    2012-02-13 at 2:37 PM

    great pictures! lovely styling as well

  6. the smoking nuns

    2012-02-13 at 3:11 PM

    Yes! Not just another exposed zipper situation. Fringe by zipper, just sounds right.

  7. deadlyinlove

    2012-02-13 at 3:12 PM

    Your psots are always so informative, I like it so much!

  8. Lydia

    2012-02-13 at 3:21 PM

    The prints from the first set are amazing, but didn’t a larger fashion house just do something like this last year? I can’t place my finger on it, but they look soooo familiar.

  9. The Minx

    2012-02-13 at 5:57 PM

    wow, the pink floor-length dress at Dean Quinn is to die for!!

  10. Lea

    2012-02-13 at 6:45 PM

    woooooow great prints great models!!!! i love your pics ever ever ever!!

  11. Emily Burke

    2012-02-13 at 7:46 PM

    Amazing photos,
    these looks are so flawlessly beautiful.
    Cant wait till LFW
    if your going –
    i’ll see you there !

  12. Cristián Pavez Díaz

    2012-02-13 at 8:08 PM

    I loved Calla!! She looks so grunchy-chic!! Congrats for all your great job!!
    Greetings from Santiago, Chile.
    @cristianpavezd on Twitter.

  13. Daniella

    2012-02-13 at 8:15 PM

    Wow – luscious prints!

  14. Haidee

    2012-02-13 at 9:05 PM

    Love the colours and use of the zips amazing 🙂

  15. Maya

    2012-02-13 at 9:16 PM

    Out of these three collections, I’d say Calla is my favorite. I go crazy for color and digital prints combined. What works of art.

  16. vicky

    2012-02-13 at 9:31 PM

    Nice work! I especially liked Calla’s pieces…

  17. Tara India

    2012-02-13 at 10:44 PM

    That Calla collection is stunning. xox

  18. AngieMontreal

    2012-02-13 at 10:52 PM

    Love love love the Ostwald Helgason presentation, those colours are exactly what I want in the fall.

  19. jenny (penniless zen)

    2012-02-13 at 11:32 PM

    I love the prints for Calla, especially the 4th pic down. Looks like ballpoint ink splotches… thank you for the pictures.

  20. Emily

    2012-02-14 at 12:53 AM

    Following tweets of those lucky enough to attend NYFW, I was wondering how the Milk Studios presentations worked. I knew they weren’t in the “tents”. Great to know for future reference! I love that you seek out the up-and-coming instead of the scene.
    My favorite of these three (if it’s possible to compare) is Calla. Creative prints with almost a Thakoon feel.

  21. Soffia

    2012-02-14 at 3:52 AM

    I saw the Ostwald Helgason show and thought it was amazing! exclamation mark

  22. The Honeyroom

    2012-02-14 at 3:56 AM

    very cool, I really like the abstract granite prints

  23. customised bags

    2012-02-14 at 5:54 AM

    The styles from the first set are awesome, but didn’t a bigger design home just do something like this last year? I can’t position my little kids finger on it, but they look sooo acquainted.

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    2012-02-14 at 6:27 AM

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    2012-02-14 at 6:47 AM

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  26. Raphaëlle Lavielle

    2012-02-14 at 9:20 AM

    Love the print matching nail polish and the zip structures.

  27. Constance

    2012-02-14 at 9:34 AM

    I love it!! But why on earth those girls are that skinny???? It make me not appreciate the design 100% !!!

  28. La Vie Quoridienne

    2012-02-14 at 11:12 AM

    They looks amazing…Nice pics my dear.
    Today i lost my keys, but i’m so happy because now is snowing:
    XOXO from Munich
    La Vie Quotidienne

  29. Suzi

    2012-02-14 at 11:41 AM

    fabulous drool-worthy pieces and it must have been AMAZING seeing these gorgeous garments on the runway!!!!
    Suzi x
    For the Love of Audrey

  30. Stills

    2012-02-14 at 11:42 AM

    Love those prints!

  31. Liljurós

    2012-02-14 at 2:40 PM

    God! I’m absolutely in love with Calla now! Those prints are amazing, and the fabrics and the feminine cuts. The ballerina shoes really make it all perfect. Beautiful simplicity going in here!

  32. Anniken

    2012-02-14 at 2:58 PM

    I loved Cala’s colour pallette! So delicate and crazy at the same time!

  33. Chandra Mohan M

    2012-02-14 at 4:35 PM

    This was really very nice posting in this blog. I had really liked the stuff very much.
    The information was very cordial. Thanks!

  34. Rachel

    2012-02-15 at 5:27 PM

    Milk sounds amazing, the exact reason why I love going to Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows on the LFW schedule!

  35. Danielle

    2012-02-17 at 5:14 AM

    These collections are beautiful! I especially love the pretty prints from Calla. Good for you for checking out up and coming designers. Thanks so much for sharing.

  36. Sara

    2012-02-27 at 2:18 AM

    In shock over how amazing these collections are! Truly love the first one with the bright tights!

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