Sun Ray

Sun Ray

>> The last time I wrote about Thomas Wakeford, a London-based duo label created by Thomas Wakeford and Raphael Castelmezzano, I must have come off lookng like a right nasty bitch who didn't like it.  I said there was a lot of 'wrongness' and that they contrasted the 'obnoxious with the luxurious' in their A/W 11-12 collection.  I should have then added a postscript note later on to say that it was only the initial shock of patchwork denim, croc skin tops and the return of the hankerchief hem which goaded me into my tough love commentary.  I should have also said in plainer terms that I actually quite liked it and was intrigued by the duo's approach to texture and their evoking of very specific imagery. 

Their S/S 12 collection might be easier on the eye but doesn't skimp out when it comes to mind boggling references.  You're free of course to just react to Thomas Wakeford's dresses with "Oh!  Cute stripes!" but then you'd be missing out on everything that's going on below the surface.  Sun ray stripes are the result of a weird marriage between 90s acid house football culture in England and the literal aesthetics of Beetlejuice.  The duo talk of a Bret Easton Ellis in L.A. which for me conjures up weird displaced summers, one where their raw edged hems, metallic foil ribbon and matt cotton and velvet stripes come together for another textural clash.  The shine surfaces are somewaht 'broken' as though a mirror has shattered.  This could just the Easton Ellis reference doing the talking.  It's difficult not to drop into cinematic cliches of mysterious L.A.  I'm suddenly reminded of a scene in the film adaptation of White Oleander with the shots of downtown L.A. sky seen through the dark glass of a car.   The contrast between the colours that speak of heady summers and bright optimism and the textures and their stark shapes broken up by pleats and folds, suggest that there's something very harsh in all that sunlight…


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Leave a comment
  1. Lea -stil.werk-

    2011-11-11 at 1:57 PM

    the colours are geniouys, but the shoes…..oh no! you really must have wonderful feet to wear them…!
    but i must tell you: i just WANT THIS METALLIC BAG!!!!!

  2. Doni Brown

    2011-11-11 at 2:36 PM
  3. Amanda

    2011-11-11 at 3:17 PM

    The shoes are amazing!

  4. jeanne berre

    2011-11-11 at 3:18 PM

    Very nice and very graphic this collection, I really like.

  5. thefashionguitar

    2011-11-11 at 5:25 PM

    I really like the shoes!!

  6. The Very Simon G

    2011-11-11 at 5:34 PM

    WOWWWWW that bag!!! That is possibly my dream bag!!!!


    2011-11-11 at 7:42 PM

    i love that geometric lines.
    very interesting

  8. shesaidsomething

    2011-11-11 at 8:07 PM

    I don’t think you should redact a thoughtful post. The hemlines are horrific on those garments. Is the goal to have them unfinished (and don’t get me started on the pants!). It is important that you are genuine in your critique. I wouldn’t purchase a garment that looks unfinished, purposeful or not.

  9. talktomyshoes

    2011-11-11 at 9:30 PM

    such interesting colour combinations!


    2011-11-11 at 10:36 PM

    really great!!!!!!!!!!

  11. Ryan Hartley

    2011-11-12 at 1:17 AM

    A style of clothing was amazing and fantastic the dress was in formal or special clothing.

  12. Ryan Hartley

    2011-11-12 at 1:17 AM

    A style of clothing was amazing and fantastic the dress was in formal or special clothing.

  13. Ryan Hartley

    2011-11-12 at 1:17 AM

    A style of clothing was amazing and fantastic the dress was in formal or special clothing.

  14. Ophelia

    2011-11-12 at 2:59 AM
  15. Aitana

    2011-11-12 at 10:01 AM

    the silver bag is so awesome!!!^^

  16. Stills

    2011-11-12 at 10:48 AM

    Amazing pieces! Those shoes are fabulous!

  17. Oogna East

    2011-11-12 at 11:16 AM

    amazing collection:)

  18. Mertxe Hernandez

    2011-11-12 at 12:17 PM

    Amazing materials and prints.

  19. Save Kate

    2011-11-12 at 12:24 PM

    The sun rays ones are really worth it! Love your blog!

  20. Fashionistas

    2011-11-12 at 3:57 PM

    I love the orange and green dress. Also the sandals look so very nice .The colors are just so very very cool.

  21. RoseAllen@ Hawaii Wedding

    2011-11-12 at 4:03 PM

    I love the silver bag and the green dress. Very nice color details.

  22. elizabeth

    2011-11-12 at 5:01 PM

    football culture on fashion. Now that is an interesting approach

  23. Style Astronaut

    2011-11-12 at 5:14 PM

    I love the sunrays, they kind of remind me of stain glass windows in churches but also remind me of more structural modern things like cartoon drawings. I love it.

  24. The Foolish Aesthete

    2011-11-12 at 7:09 PM

    Fantastic collection. I love how you drew out the football connection, and better yet, Beetlejuice’s stylistic influences! And while others may not like the “unfinished” hem, I totally love deconstructionist approaches to fashion. The Cubists had their fun fragmenting everything and leaving things a trifle “wrong”. Why not in fashion?

  25. herpersona

    2011-11-13 at 9:59 AM
  26. Ida

    2011-11-13 at 10:35 AM

    Like the silver bag!!

  27. popalette

    2011-11-13 at 4:28 PM

    Seem like that’s print hypnotize me!
    When i look on it for 10 sec.
    But it look like hot more than sun 🙂

  28. cupcakesaparis

    2011-11-13 at 4:28 PM


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