Plump It Up

I already knew that good lot of designers in Tokyo are oddly not all that keen on making a big song and dance about their collections hence why I've been seeing a lot of showrooms (or what they call 'exhibitions') as opposed to full on shows.  However, I've never interviewed a designer after a show and had them ponder whether it was right to do a show.  Plumpynuts were the one sole womenswear-only designer on the predominantly-menswear focused Versus event schedule, concluding Tokyo Fashion Week.  Designers Miyuki Omichi and Ayumi Kita may have only started their curiously named label Plumpynuts in 2009 but speaking to them, they seemed deadly decided on their focus and that was on 'real clothes'.  Moreover, they felt that their clothes were probably best left to the forum of a shopful of customers as opposed to a fashion week catwalk show.  I did meekly say "But I enjoyed it…!"  Oh well, at least it was a dose of honesty…

With a name like Plumpynuts, you might think that the clothes might go down a more off-beat route but truly, when compared to the other Tokyo Fashion Week womenswear designers, Plumpynuts is decidedly the most 'Western' of the lot.  That is, the aesthetic feels slightly more trend-driven and purposely moves away from the cutesy, loosy and heavily layered looks that Tokyo is adept at putting out.  Fair dos as variety can only help Mercedes Benz Tokyo Fashion Week develop in the long run.  There was no clear umbrella theme of the collection which is probably why Omichi and Kita expressed some post-show doubts as to whether their collections were appropriate for a show.  Yet the clean lines, the choice of embellishment and fabrics as well as the clearly messaged styling made for a refreshingly diverting show at Tokyo Fashion week.  Indeed, pieces came out and there were immediate ticks of 'I want to wear that…' and I would concede there was a fair bit of referencing going on – hints of Stella McCartney, Prada, Celine, Jil Sander etc.  At Plumpynuts' fair prices and a high quality of make though (made in Japan naturally…), it's no wonder their flagship store Showcase by Plumpynuts in Harajuku has built up a local fanbase (there's even a store member/points system…).  Highlights that will probably get the rails buzzing in their store, include a scalloped wiggle dress that is tempered by its simply white tank vest top, the distressed floral suit and a sheer panelled colour block knit. 

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I love that the PR team for Plumpynuts had their Versus t-shirts customised with a sleek drooped waist white skirt, illustrating the duo's design ambitions to see more women in Tokyo embrace the cleaner line…

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17 Replies to “Plump It Up”

  1. I’ve never heard of Plumpynuts before today, but I like what I see. Another shop to visit when I make it back to Tokyo. Is it hard to find? Where can I read your interview with Omichi and Kita?

  2. I’m so happy to read this. This is the type of manual that needs to be given and not the accidental misinformation. Appreciate your sharing this best doc.

  3. These are somewhat of a new discovery from my end, yet I have to say, what I’ve seen so far I haven’t been disappointed with! I think it’s really great that they’re wearable, but still following a seemingly “unique” aesthetic. I think more designers have to take a leaf out of there book for sure! – Daniel
    http://www.tsnewyork.com

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