I don't expect startling surprises to be thrust upon me when in Stockholm Fashion Week.  I know the game now.  Nonchalent, wearable and easy-going pieces are styled in a way that filtrates down to the achingly cool stance of the way people dress in Stockholm.  Wild inspirations often play into subtle resulting collections. 

That was definitely me being cocky and complacent.  There were two collections today that threw me off track.  I'm still waiting for some special bits of content to come through from Bon (those of you at Stockholm Fashion Week who have seen me waving around a mic with a really REALLY tall video dude will know what's up…) and so there's a bit of a posting pile-up.  Still, I couldn't not acknowledge at least one of the shockers today.  That's shocker as in "Oh my GOSH!  That is so NOT what Stockholm Fashion Week is all about… yay someone who bucks the trend!"

Altewai Saome apparently garnered a fair bit of buzz after debuting at Stockholm Fashion Week last season in January (I didn't attend…).  I knew next to nothing going in other than it was started by two girls Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome who met each other whilst studying fashion and working for several houses in Italy.  With the first look that instantly hit me with oodles of intricate beading, gradiated and patterned to emulate a sports mesh as seen in basketball vests.  This then progressed into one outfit after another of surface textural prowess mixed with sportswear-inspired silhouettes.  From gym to day to night (and back to gym again?) is the routine that inspired the whole collection where they took great pleasure in balancing out the functional sportswear and embellished eveningwear and feminine nipped-in waists.  They picked out 'off' colour combinations that really made the pieces stand out, which I suppose why Marni for instance came to mind.  I'm definitely in favour for more 'off' colourists in the world if it means opening my eyes to the wonders of Elastoplast pink, bogey green and Kool-Aid red.   

Lick the surface only and you'll detect touches of Prada and Marni but actually I saw this as a melding of a Swedish identity and Italian fashion aesthetic that the girls possess.  They deliberately set out to stand out from their Swedish peers and they did so emphatically.  Just the number of beads, rectangular sequins and wads of chiffon circles alone puts them in an embellishment league in their own.  Yet dotted in amongst the collection are simpler pieces that rely on simple cut and has obvious ease of wear so as to not be overly haughty and inaccessible.  Curiously, they already have their own concept store that's located in their basetown Malmo, another oddity in Swedish fashion where most are based in Stockholm.  This speak of ambition that is primarily domestic which is definitely wise for such a young label. 

It's a little unfair to compare Altewai Saome with say a Carin Wester or Dagmar and thank god for that.  Different strokes for different folks is precisely what a burgeoning fashion week like Stockholm needs to break out from its self perpetuating cage of churning out easy-to-wear, well-cut/draped and simple pieces.  It certainly makes me want to come back just to see how people like Altewai Saome progress in addition to checking out the 'old' faves and making mental shopping lists. 

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Comments (27)

  1. Teodora says:

    Don’t you love to be surprised? I like the mesh tops as well and see it as a versatile addition.
    Teodora
    Teodoraslookbook.com

  2. Nora says:

    You know what I love about you and your blog? You don’t only show your personal style, you also really give us the insight into the fashion industry, and the way you describe an outfit is just so fabulous. Thanks for being a spy for us 🙂
    Nora
    http://www.norafinds.tumblr.com

  3. constance says:

    I am dying for one of those! When I’ll make it….:)
    http://www.afrenchinlosangeles.com

  4. Kazuko says:

    goodness, what is that? need to take a closer look. yes, it also reminds me of marni, and i absolutely love the shapes and colour combos. love at first sight.

  5. oana says:

    very interesting collection and thanks to your article, i was able to discover it. who would have thought that Sweden has such innovative designers. the same happened to me when you were posting reviews of the shows from Sydney. it’s always a delight to read your articles.

  6. I’m in love with the colour ways and the unique textures! Lisa
    http://lisawhitwelldesign.carbonmade.com

  7. There are new ideas every day, every day a good mood, thank you, you are the best!

  8. Oh-my, those shapes are beyond amazing.

  9. Adriënne says:

    wow, the structures are so good

  10. it was so nice seeing you in the first rows in Stockholm. And even nicer to read your reviews from the shows I haven’t seen, now I know I should be regretting not being at Altewai Saome’s show forever! Or at least until next MB Fashion Week 🙂 Take care!

  11. Anne says:

    Love the use of color in these pieces.
    Totally feelin’ all things bright and beautiful…right about now I am into the new label Ashanti Brazil.. Tribal chic with a Brazilian twist
    http://www.ashantibrazil.com/

  12. Meena Dhuga says:

    wow! these pieces are mazing! i love all the beading, but I can’t imagine how long it must have taken to do all of that.
    http://pinklemonsorbet.blogspot.com/
    Meena ‚ô•

  13. Yes definitely very distinctive style and intriguing designs from Stockholm! Intricate work!
    http://www.orchira.co.uk

  14. Olive says:

    I love the fringe details and color block effect!brilliant!

  15. Wow great pictures! Love the level of detail.
    http://eighteengramsofglitter.blogspot.com

  16. The textures used are so interesting and individual, they really show the personality of the designer. Such a mix of unusual techniques. Brilliant!
    http://beckysaunders.tumblr.com

  17. Taylor Lewis says:

    love the textures of this collection, beautiful!
    http://thefashiondrugg.blogspot.com/

  18. Peachy says:

    Waww I love all those different textures!
    peachy, http://peachycharliechique.blogspot.com/

  19. Daisy says:

    wow. this collection is beautiful and it seems carefully sculpted and unique.
    Daisy
    http://www.surmagique.blogspot.com

  20. Tassos P says:

    Very nice collections and great review there dear! Even with that little crazy nose thing you still are the cutest one 🙂
    xoxoxoxoxo

  21. Caroline says:

    Thanks for this great post! Myself is not attending since I got other commitments (read work in Norway). But I¬¥ve been watching the shows online and the pics. What is so great about this post is that your pictures (they always do) make the clothes a lot more justice than the regular “shot from front” pics, so one can actually see the materials and details and that you actually write about the forementioned is great.

  22. seesaw says:

    lovely collection.

  23. This collection design looks very lightly & darkness combination.Beautiful and great review nice collection.www.uniqueitworld.com

  24. VASAREELLE says:

    Love prints and patterns on these outfits, inspiring stufff!!!!
    http://vasare.wordpress.com/

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