Natural Is Not In It

Natural Is Not In It

(Film Ben Toms, Styling Robbie Spencer – full credits on Dazed Digital)

Boo to my being a complete posting doofus this morning leaving this post barely started and live on the blog.  Crimson was the exact shade my cheeks turned when I came home to find out.  Just in case you think I'm some sort of a lazy bum who's swanning around shows, quaffing cupcakes and being driven around printed cars.  I've been writing for The London Fashion Week Daily as well as having participating for a shoot which features designers from the London Fashion Week exhibition (i.e. the bit that a lot of people stupidly skip…) that will feature online as well as in the paper (which can also be read online).  I've also been going backstage for MAC waving a Flip camera around.  Then there are some little tidbits for ASOS' Whoop! blog that I'm also doing.  Oh, and there's still some sort of a lag between New York and London that still hasn't quite returned to normality.      

Like I said at the Topshop talk yesterday (thank you to those that turned up!), collections have a longer lifeline beyond fashion week and I'll take my own good sweet time if I think a better post can be had.  So if I hold back, don't think it won't suddenly crop up here making you think "Oh, right, that collection totally happened!", indicative of our internet-fostered short term memory.  Seeing as this post was sort of up here all day, I may has well finish it off. 

At first glance, J.W. Anderson's A/W 10-11 womenswear collection was immediately a far more souped up and slick affair that may have been cleaned of the lovable 'scruffy' touches that made J.W. Anderson's debut collections so endearing – jumpers that were a little too big, the raw edges, the mis-matched patterns, the sprinkling of glitter on pieces and the disenfranchised girl embodying all of these clothes.  Look closer at the new collection 'The Fear of Naturalism' and the uneasy tension of collections beforehand still exist but you might need to delve deeper and look closer to find it.  Naturally originating as a menswear designer, the interaction between boy/girl aesthetics is always palpable.  Note that I say boy/girl as opposed toe masculine/feminine, which denotes something more grown-up – as the press notes read "They're (the clothes) about grabbing onto the belief that we don't have to let the fantastical ideals of youth collapse into the mundane realities of adulthood."

So as sleek looking as a lot of these pieces are, beneath there is still plenty that breaks convention – brocades paired with paisley, latex sitting ontop of shirts, skirts over trousers, a furry beard on a chunky brogue, a swishy pleat next to rigid tweed – the feeling that something is a little bit 'off' about the clothes is the thing to latch onto and therefore this is J.W. Anderson standing between the lines of prescribed good taste and his gut instinct – I'm glad he's gone for the latter in a way that will also have comprehensive appeal. 

The knitwear was a particular strongpoint that resulted in mohair knits layered over prints intersected with straps that fit rigorously well to bod, a distinct upgrade from the oversized jumpers of Anderson's yester-season…







Then a flood of paisley affirmed why this pattern shouldn't be so dismissed at any point especially when it has been reconfigured into tops that go underneat neat shirts as well as pleated skirts sitting on top of straight legged trousers – a proportion that girl/boys can afford to take a chance on. 





The best bit of knit wit was all in this skirt that looked like a jumper tied backwards around the waist and instead revealed a cut-out apron like shape at the back – all packaged up into a skirt that doesn't look the least bit awkward despite the geeky conotations…




Blocky brights over super pleated full-length skirts will always be welcome if there's a fair amount of swoooooooshing involved…

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Anderson also pragmatically incorporates 'proper' outerwear where quilted paisley, PVC mingled with fur and tweed, imbued with those off-key tones that are in the undertow of this collection.  Being a little "off" has always felt "on" for me – hah – there's a candy cane quote that I shouldn't be handing out too often lest I start to sound like one of those people that drop "bang-on-trend" into sentences.  Nevertheless, Anderson is still beating along to the drumkit in his own world with this third womenswear collection which bodes well for the upcoming mens collection being shown on Wednesday morning. 





Leave a comment
  1. Joanna

    2011-02-21 at 12:43 AM

    I love this video, it reminded me of 90’s and like that decade’s break through models such as Kate Moss.

  2. Tanya

    2011-02-21 at 12:52 AM

    JW Anderson was amazing! I really love the intricate detailed patterns and the “Santa beard” attached to the shoe!

  3. Abby

    2011-02-21 at 1:00 AM

    Woah those shoes are mental! Love the trend of the long skirt, im happy to see that in a winter collection! hopefully the trend will continue 🙂 xoxo Abby
    p.s saw you in topshop oxford street the other day, you were amazing and seemed totally casual and cool, and i loved the skirt! 😀

  4. Rossella

    2011-02-21 at 1:07 AM

    wow great collection
    let me know your thoughts on my new blog entry and follow me at:

  5. Crystal

    2011-02-21 at 1:25 AM

    Take all the time you need! I think I can speak for many of us in saying that we appreciate how much thought you put into all of your posts.
    Gah so many pieces to mix and match!

  6. winnsome

    2011-02-21 at 3:37 AM

    Ha! Don’t worry we all do those things from time to time.. I am always leaving comments on other people’s blogs whilst still logged in as my husband ooooohhhhh embarrassing!
    I also wanted to say GOOD LUCK this week with all of your running around to the shows. I’m sure it will be exciting but stressful so like crystal said take all the time you need coz we are way loyal to ur awesome blog!
    p.s. love the tiny tiny white collars – perfect

  7. indah

    2011-02-21 at 8:52 AM

    what a gorgeous fashion runway show..i think you’d a really great days, and busy too 🙂
    let’s follow each other and be friends :)let me know with your comment in my post :)cheer ya:)

  8. masha

    2011-02-21 at 12:24 PM

    pretty prints. like the skirt-sweat.

  9. michelle

    2011-02-21 at 12:59 PM

    cute shoes
    swatch international giveaway:

  10. Nicola

    2011-02-24 at 2:38 PM

    PAISLEY IT IS! <3 How can you ever go wrong with something as awesome as this? Fantastic delicate prints paired with rock shoes.. Oh gosh. I hope they get this look on too.

  11. Bob

    2014-12-29 at 4:10 PM

    Thanks for the post of Acne A/W 2011- love the styles! Went to their site and they don’t have the archive for that year 🙁 would have loved to see it, but enjoyed these!!

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