The Dry Run

The Dry Run


Tim Hamilton belongs to a vaguely burgeoning set of established menswear designers turning their hand to developing their own womenswear designers – Damir Doma and Thom Browne are beginning to establish their womenswear codes and Hamilton now has four seasons under his belt.  However, with this S/S 11 collection, he has purposely co-ordinated both of his womenswear and menswear collections together to present a cohesive message.  This isn't to be confused with unisex clothes swapping but that the themes, motifs and aesthetics are matched up in the menswear and womenswear. 

It was never going to be a typically feminine vision from Hamilton but this collection rigorously enforces what Hamilton explores in his menswear collection which is a gradual and subtle build up of texture in tones that are soothing for a season rife with brights.  I suppose I'm balancing out my love of the acid hues with something calmed down – in this instance, it's Hamilton's white on white pairing, tones of navy, grey, khaki and green. 

These tones are livened up though with the textures and fabrics that Hamilton has chosen, something I guess I can only appreciate for now at a distance.  Going by text descriptions though is enough to stir up imagination – paper, linen, gauze, silk, Cupro (a lightweight material that is like rayon) and dry cotton – are worked into cuts that are deliberately assymetrical.  Belgian artist Micha√´l Borremans provides the initial starting point for the collection's juxtaposition between being utilitarian and luxurious.  I particularly like the diagonal lines which cut into pieces with geometric precision. 

The palette is streamlined, the better to explore its extremes. Hamilton speaks of the beauty of neutral tonal pairing: the cleansing, almost blinding purity of layering white on white. At the opposite end of the spectrum, there is the blackest of blacks, the result of research at a Japanese mill that specializes in dark dyeing. Primal Navy and white are complemented by grays, khakis and greens.

Hamilton not showing his womenswear collection in an official capacity has much to answer for this development. "It has progressed in a paired down sort of way, I knew I was not doing a show this season so in nature it become more utility and accessible. It really is a way of simple dressing.  I also never worked with such a light clean palette which took me out of my black moments.  I've heard lots of positive feedback on how less is more from the assortment of the collection to the clean lines."  Hopefully that feedback is reflected in his work becoming more available. 



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When the womenswear is seen side by side with its men's counterpart, the story becomes even more complete and in a perverse way, I'm kind of buying into wearing head to toe Tim Hamilton with Steve at my side doing the same – stop me before this mad act comes to pass. 





Leave a comment
  1. callahan

    2011-01-25 at 8:14 PM

    I really like the collection, its weird how you can appreciate texture through wording but it is definatly possible, although admittedly not like seeing the real thing…and it doesnt look like it would be such a mad act after all! x

  2. Leonidas

    2011-01-25 at 8:15 PM

    oh i love how masculine everything looks. and also the suits are amazing

  3. margief

    2011-01-25 at 8:41 PM

    oh i do like this collection. i like clean lines and this is full of them. the sheer blazer is lovely

  4. KiraLilly

    2011-01-25 at 8:41 PM

    amazing post as always, incredible collection. i’m really into the androgynous look lately

  5. Amanda

    2011-01-25 at 9:44 PM

    Wow, I’m so in love with his womanswear!
    Btw. I found you blog some days ago(through Monki television), and I really like it! Lots of roses to you Susie. I’m so jaloux at you, because you live in the amazing! London. I’m sitting here in a little town in Denmark, and hope to become a notice fashion journalist, photographer, or someting else there has to do with fashion. Keep up the good work girl!
    – Amanda, 15 years, Denmark:-)

  6. Nick Cohen

    2011-01-25 at 10:20 PM

    tim hamiltons collection is AMAZING!

  7. blog mode

    2011-01-25 at 11:15 PM

    This collection is amazing, the designer is so talented!

  8. Iv√¢nia Diamond*

    2011-01-26 at 1:52 AM

    hi honey!!
    Great collection! Lovely blog <33

  9. moi

    2011-01-26 at 2:14 AM

    I find his menswear… constraining. And not the good kind of constraint.

  10. Niki

    2011-01-26 at 10:51 AM

    Amazing collection! The womens jacket and shirts are chic and classy.

  11. tatiana

    2011-01-26 at 11:25 AM

    why the models look so unhappy? seems like heroin chic whitout heroin, with dropout syndrome! the look are ok

  12. Chuck

    2011-01-26 at 12:17 PM

    Not post related but I really liked the piece on you on BoF. V interesting. Am super excited about the possibility of a book…

  13. edoardo

    2011-01-26 at 1:09 PM

    I lvoe the simmple lines and the futuristic cuts, amazing!

  14. ciaraghlee

    2011-01-26 at 1:15 PM

    I love the androgyny of the looks. Would love to be able to pull it off!

  15. stephanie

    2011-01-26 at 1:51 PM

    love the wet combed hair look <--fashion illustration

  16. Laura Connell

    2011-01-26 at 2:33 PM

    I love the first image especially the say the cracked mirror effect mirrors the geometric shapes and asymmetrical lines in the clothing. Very very interesting menswear-inspired womenswear here but what is with the last look? He looks like a character from Dumb and Dumber! Not appealing at all.

  17. Amelie

    2011-01-26 at 3:26 PM

    “I’m kind of buying into wearing head to toe Tim Hamilton with Steve at my side doing the same – stop me before this mad act comes to pass.”
    Do it!! I love the first female-male photo. It’s not gorgeous, pretty, or any of that. It’s just odd and interesting. I love it. I hadn’t heard of Hamilton, so thank you for sharing.

  18. Hillary

    2011-01-26 at 3:53 PM

    I love the whole minimal look with the simple lines. Definitely great clean chic 🙂

  19. Fashion Nerd

    2011-01-26 at 3:54 PM

    Cute. I love the dresses what an awesome post.
    Fashion Nerd

  20. Minty

    2011-01-26 at 5:47 PM

    I love the geometric look.

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