New Breed of Age

>> Unearthing this old 2006 WWD article on a new breed of designers, it's interesting to note that save for one, all of them seem to have ceased their labels if a quick internet search and unupdated websites are to go by.  The premise of the article were that these designers were making quiet yet strong steps with collections that favoured 'polish over flash' – perhaps for some of them, the steps were simply too quiet for the industry to heed.  The exception though is Du≈°an Paunovic whose last collection I wrote about as part of a wave of designers who interpret maximal minimalist design through subtly luxurious fabrics in perfectly proportioned shapes. 

I thought it might be time to revisit his S/S 11 collection for two reasons.  A) Whilst thumbing through the bulk of most British high street collections for the new season for a shoot tomorrow, I noticed quite a fair few Dusan-isms consciously or unconsciously being injected.  There's relaxed tailoring in abundance but of course the difference is that Dusan's collection in execution, in cut and in fabric choices is probably anything but 'relaxed'.  I'm guessing the just-so level of looseness can sometimes being harder to achieve than a skintight fit, making the distinction between 'baggy' and 'relaxed' even more marked.  All the soft shades of pyjama shirt blue and pale pink (the exacting shade is called 'Under the Snow' apaprently...) as well as the trickle through effect of camel/cinnamon was also present in said high street rails.  I therefore couldn't think of anything BUT Dusan's collection that scooped these strands up, compressing it all neatly and without unnecessary fuss. 

B) Steve has taken to sometimes describing my outfits as 'Encens-y'.  By that he is referring to the annual magazine which I did a video flick-through of a few months ago.  There's something of a signature look to Encens' styling aesthetic and sometimes when I get enough volume going in my many, MANY layers of clothing, the effect is therefore a little 'Encens-y'.  Encens' editor Samuel Drira also happens to be Dusan's lookbook stylist and quite often uses Dusan pieces in the publication.  I certainly wouldn't mind a few more days of looking 'Encens-y' with Dusan to help me out in an ideal world…













17 Replies to “New Breed of Age”

  1. It drives me crazy that there are no follow-ups. I always think if you hype someone, you should revisit the news in a few years and see how it turned out. It’s my little obsession: follow-up.

  2. Wow, I can’t believe you found that article! I featured Brasilian designer Bruno Grizzo in 09, and it was that article that I jotted his name down from. So sad that he doesn’t seem to be producing anymore. That’s the downside to covering emerging/indie designers, but I am so glad to see Dusan still going strong, because that’s the upside to it all.
    I think I’ll dig through my archives to see where some of my favourite emerging designer’s have gone. Sometimes it’s easier to just move forward when the lookbooks stop coming, but your expert research skills have me peeling back the past.

  3. Ms. Shoo and WendyB: I’m with you on the FOLLOW-UP attitude… I’m going to have a dig too through my archives to see where a lot of the labels are now…especially ones where I’ve only talked about them once…

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