On and On…

>> This marks the last Friday before the press day madness begins involving pic-snapping overdrive and days of sturdy shoe wearing.  I've counted that there are 53 on my calendar over the next month and that's just the bare minimum.  I can't lie that I've got my faves where I'll be pouncing upon with vigor with my DSLR.  I've only expressed random spouts of affection for Prada S/S 11, a show that I still haven't fully explained my love for.  Seeing as I stupidly turned down the opportunity to see the show in Milan, I'll atone with the press day that should give me colours, stripes and bananas galore.  In the meantime, here is Prada's first ever animated lookbook that goes hand in hand with their regular-as-clockwork fantasy lookbook which has been produced by OMA (Alexander Reichert & Fausto Fantinuoli, part of Rem Koolhaas' architecture firm who of course design all of Prada's show sets and stores). 

It adds an altogether different slant to the show that I saw back in February shedding a different light on the bust-balconies, that checked retrograding pattern, those patent princess coats with thick fur collars and the loafers with chunky cable knit socks (Oi! Prada on Old Bond Street, still waiting for your call to see whether the grey and red ones have come back in stock yet!).  Perhaps it's the cartoonish elements that subverts Miuccia's declaration at the time that "It's normal clothes".  What IS normal anyway in the scheme of things.  The "Breasts are Back" headlines that the show followed up with skimmed over the many humorous details of the collection that are played up here in the video, adding a silliness and a sense of the 'random' that somehow moots what a lot of people wanted to see the collection as – that it was simply about embracing a more diverse body shape, and nothing else.  I never wanted to read it as a "This is About Breasts" collection in the way that people did after the show given there were so many MORE elements to it but anyhow… I'm still left with the same simplistic and shallow feeling as I did after seeing the show… how muchy for those patent loafers, chunky socks and patent coats and how much will they be reduced when they go on sale?  Yup, I'm THAT deep…    

Ruffles Re-Borne


>> Some of you may have already caught wind of Borne by Elise Berger through the image-fest that is Knight Cat. I did mean to post about Borne earlier on as designer Christine Elise K√∂lnberger-Aziz (a mouthful that's been nicely shortened…) but I had hoped that I'd make it out to the other side of town to see the label's studio in action.  It never happened.  It may still happen.  For now, I simply must extoll the delights of 'Little Series', her debut S/S 11 collection.  Christine hails from MuÃànster in Germany where she grew up watching her grandfather who was a menswear tailor and for some reason knew her artistic pseudonym would be Elise Berger, hence the final name of her brand.  After studying in ESDi in Barcelona and doing internships for Vivienne Westwood and Preen in London, she returned to Barcelona to develop this collection.  Now she splits her time between Barcelona and London with her husband and two-year old son whilst birthing out Borne into the new label scene. 


You get the feeling there are no big or complex ideas behind Borne.  It's simply about clothes you'll fall in love with focusing on details that make you take a second look at something that is deceptively simple.  For S/S 11, the ruffle is given a good cleansing.  Through a leaning towards understated and louche menswear tailoring, seen in the shapes, any ruffles or tiers of frou frou-ness manages not to overcrowd the clothes and stand out even more.  I'm not sure how Christine managed to make ruffles look tomboyish even in the palette of pinks, creams and soft heather greys and perhaps the stance of model Kat Hessen is helping the cause as well but in any case, I'm not overwhelmed by the ruffle and so we have an easy-to-fall-for first collection that just needs a neat little e-store and some choice stockists for Borne to really be born.

Borne4 Borne9




Borne12 Borne1


Borne3 Borne11



‘Les’ Note


>> This is sort of an inconsequential post and should really be tweeted as opposed to blogged but having been to Topshop Oxford Circus and SQUEALING at the sight of a pair of leggings, I thought I better spread the excitement about and burn off this ecstatic energy I have.  I knew French label Les Heal (formerly known as Heal – legal issues perhaps causing the name change?) were coming into Topshop's EMERGE section (formerly known as Topshop Edit – seems we're all about name changes here… can I be Susie Sangria formerly known as Susie Bubble?).  I just didn't know that they'd be reproducing the best pieces of Heal's A/W 09-10 collection, the one that caught my eye – such as a renewed navy (I promise it is navy, it's just very dark in the pic…) version of this 'Stereomatic' dress/jacket that I have here in grey jersey…



AND… adding a pair of grey jersey panelled leggings to get some Stereomatic action going on in the bottom half…


Hmmm… do I go ALL THE WAY into Stereomatic haven and don the jacket AND these leggings and go out, trying not to be mistaken for some sort of interpretative dancer (don't know why I'm associating head to toe panelled grey jersey with modern dance…)…?  Or do I just hold back and be happy with my Stereomatic upper half?

**EDIT** I hear y'all on the camel toe issue.  But then I receive these images from the peeps at Les Heal and damn, I spy a matching grey jersey hoodie, a looser upper half option to compliment the leggings… Oh and I saw the leggings on someone in the flesh today and the camel toe doesn't seem to appear.  Hmmm… in any case, I'm might glad that they have have appeared on Topshop's shop floor…



On a non-legging, non-camel-toe note, their gorilla-esque navy alpaca wool coat presents itself as a the fluffiest bathmat coat option… one that is veering on looking like one of those shaggy rugs in chalets where some sweet-sweet love making gets underway.  Not sure which floor covering association is better really…?



>> This may feel like some kind of coupled-co-ordinated post seeing as Steve has also posted about the latest issue of Encens.  But I swear to you, it's nothing as cutesy as that.  I've been enamoured with Encens for not all of the magazine's lifetime but whenever it does cross my path.  Stylist and editors
Sybille Walter and Samuel Drira and their baby Encens is essentially a hugely inspirational vanity project, which isn't a dig at all when you consider that by being completely selfish and publishing something that is to your exacting desires and going in a direction that bucks what is already out there is a risk and is the root of all exciting publishing (The Face – must we carry on mourning?). 

Anyhow Walter and Drira are concerned with looking back to look forward or perhaps they're not trying to look forward at all and in fact, want to stand still at a time where certain designers of a loose period of 70s-90s are the focus (Ted Lapidus, Yves Saint Laurent, Kenzo, Thierry Mugler, Issey Miyake come to mind – all carefully sourced and seamlessly blended with more contemporary pieces) and where silhouettes are rich, dramatic and playing with contrasts all the time. 

I'm serving up a video flick through because this beast of an issue is impossible to scan and now that it has become an annual issue, it's thicker than ever and renders it a coffee table book as opposed to a flicky style mag. It's best to try and hunt it down (it took me three tries at the Soho newsies to get hold of it…) and see for yourself the specific styling that Walter and Drira have employed.  It's also worth the ¬£15 to gorge yourself on the images in your own privacy and NOT gratify yourself with shonky scans of this evocative pic fest…

Song is Circled Sun by Chromatics