Collection title page

I'm wondering whether ten years from now, the fashion graduates of 2020 will be reminiscing about their school days and will they be creating collections inspired by err… Justin Bieber, Twitter and High School Musical.  Apparently, even though many of this year's fashion graduates are a few years younger than I *ahem* am, we're sharing the same memories of school or teenage-dom circa 1994-6.  Or at least, I'm sharing them with the one Hannah Clayton from Westminster who based her graduate collection on 90s grunge-school nostalgia, including the familiar mix of My So Called Life, The Craft, listening to Nirvana/Hole.  I am a biased being of course because all of this just takes me back to Henrietta Barnett (gooooo HBS!) in year 7-8 thinking i was so 'alternative' when EVERYONE watched/listened to all the above (did The Craft spark a Wicca movement at your school… it did at mine…).  I'm sure years from now, collections influenced by the popular culture of today will be just as interesting but for now, I'm happy to love Clayton's luxurious synthesis of that cultural period.  I am now that old fogey that has started saying "When I was a teenager…"…

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Craft

Who knows whether Hannah actually experienced any of this the first time
round or whether it all came around again like so many things do but
the things that do repeat itself are the elements of school uniform
customisation – poking holes through the sleeves of school jumpers,
holding up coats to use as a hood in the rain, shortening skirts, adding
patent PVC backpacks and Doc Martens to uniforms… so Hannah has put thumbholes in her mesh bodies as well as a hood pattern-cut into the collar of her coats to reference these things.  This is a thoroughly labour intensive collection where the accumulation of details take the clothes beyond being yer-average grunge-inspired fare (i.e. not just a lazy bit of dirty plaid or some scuffed up boots…). 

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HANNAHC LINEUP

Hannah experimented with bleeding dye and found an alternative to
orthodox fastenings in coloured aluminium bolts.  She used fabrics like tie-dyed rabbit fur, velvet ribbon, mohair and pony skin to elevate the fabrics and where colours are muted in olive, greys, black and red, the texture is well and truly ampted up.  Even the omnipresent plaid gets lift by getting tie-dyed over and then bleached out again. 

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In particular, Hannah put a heap of effort into the total look by making her own shoes and backpacks…  for the pony skin covered boots (which the girls at Tank hearted…), she actually took some stripper boots from Pleaser (the same sort that Christeric used for her Charles Anastase Dungeon boot DIY… I would still credit those boots to Natasha Marro as she makes Anastase's shoes…) and then casted them in the red, green and asphalt pony skin…

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HANNAHC SHOES

It's all complex layers, texture mixes as well as details such as the pleated detailing on the shoulder below… I love that Hannah's collection is a complete one and in her case, the dreaded 'total look' is no bad thing whatsoever yet at the same time, take it all apart and it can be worn as well.  Come on, random retailer out there… this collection is ripe for the picking (buying…)…

HANNAHC FITTING

HANNAHC RIBBON SHOULDER

Again, Brendan and Brendan shot these images for Hannah as part of the Westminster magazine with styling by Pandora Lennard of Tank … I actually prefer Hannah's own pony skin boots in this instance…

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The thing that I loved most was that Hannah, wasn't trying to create a spot-on authentic 90s grunge collection but that she took that initial inspiration point and elevated it into a collection that has depth and richness, particularly evident in the craftsmanship of all the different components…

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Comments (36)

  1. Anna says:

    I totally agree with you, it is so obviously influenced by the 90’s but very sophisticated and relevant for today! Love this collection 🙂

  2. Cillian says:

    Amazing, if only for the boots and The Craft reference.
    Still get nightmares of that snakes-on-the-roof-of-the-glasshouse scene. Eurgh.
    C.

  3. Isabelle says:

    What a nostalgia-fest! I love the silhouette.
    I distinctly remember going to see The Craft with my mum and feeling like such a rebel because it was a 15 and I was 14.

  4. Everyouth says:

    Photos r really nice……Amazing to go with ur Blog …
    http://www.vivamagonline.com/CoverStories_Cynthia.php

  5. this is another great post. as usual. love this collection, kind of takes you back in time a little, and yet you realise that even though styles change, fashion is eternal (YSL). j’adore the red boots, these are definitely a killer on the runway and so today
    http://elenavasilieva.blogspot.com/

  6. THE FIRST GRADUATE COLLECTION THAT IS ACTUALLY FIT! WEARABLE AND A FRESH APROACH TO ‘ON TREND’ LOVE IT LIKE A FAT KID LOVES CAKE!
    http://GINGERFASHIONBLOG.BLOGSPOT.COM

  7. The textures are great. The collection definitely does take you back. I’m a 90’s child so bring it back! The collection looks very rich/chic but also modern and different. Love love!
    Emily
    http://musemeblog.blogspot.com/

  8. Lorena says:

    I will always have a soft spot for grunge (and anything 90’s really) because of my memories from my childhood; everything from then seems rich, vibrant and sharp in my mind – at the time I soaked it all up like a sponge. I will always remember 90’s cartoons, music videos and old favorite movies fondly because it all had such a great effect on my impressionable young self. I think I was in 5th or 6th grade when The Craft came out and my friends and I definitely had a ‘Wicca phase’! We used to go to the park and create our own spells and chants and draw symbols in the dirt thinking we might awaken some latent magical abilities hahaha. My Wiccan aunt was all excited that I was into magic and bought me a book called “Nice Girls Book of Naughty Spells”, no joke.
    Red and grey is one of my favorite color combinations so this instantly appeals to me, I love how much the pops of red stand out. I’m really liking the pony hair shoes and backpacks. I’m not sure how I feel about some of the fabrics but overall I think this is a strong collection.

  9. Sheen says:

    im LOVING this collection, really feeling the 90s grunge revival… this makes me want summer to be over when its only just started!

  10. Duck says:

    Haha obsessions with The Craft, Charmed, and Buffy The Vampire Slayer totally led to a Wicca obsession for me circa 1998-2000… I guess I was a bit late to jump on the bandwagon 🙂
    Have you seen the McQ diffusion collection for Autumn/Winter. Taking a looksie at the lookbook photos, you might see a little bit of overlap here…

  11. Sophia says:

    It does indeed have a wonderful depth and really reminds me of the 90s, even though I wasn’t in highschool then but I remember it anyways. i love the collection and the colours, especially the ruby boots and the various textures are amazingly mixed. <3
    skiepies.blogspot.com/

  12. Nina says:

    I love how she reworked the boots in pony hair and you’re right-the layering IS fantastic and original. Cool glasses as well. 🙂
    http://watermelonfeet.blogspot.com

  13. Style Spy says:

    I LOVE seeing these graduate collections, thanks so much for all of this coverage.

  14. I was OBSESSED with The Craft when I was younger! I have got a pentagram and dyed my hair black…oh dear. I love the moody, sultry feel to her designs. One to watch, for sure! x

  15. i have to asy, im not a big fan of 90s style.. its too grunge for me.. im glad i twas too young to get caught up in the trend, although it would make for some great photos!!
    <33
    heelsandinspiration.blogspot.com

  16. oleg says:

    I am making the very first feature documentary about Central Saint Martins !!! Have a look at my blog about making the film !!1 thanks XXX
    http://www.ihatemycollection.com

  17. Lisa says:

    This is such a satisfying collection. It takes a lot of things that other collections drew inspiration from and hits them spot-on where the others missed, in my opinion. Ahhh, so wonderful.

  18. nicool says:

    love it. love it all. when i was in highschool i went to the bookstore to look at wiccan books and i ended up picking up a book on witta, the celtic wicca. go figure. they only had one book on it and i decided to choose the most obscure weirdo celtic version. haha. so then i always had to reply when people would say “you mean wicca?”, “no, not wicca, wiTTa, the CELTIC version…i figure since i am irish i should choose that one.” oh man.

  19. moi says:

    All Saints hooting and howling for her?

  20. brooke says:

    Reblogging a couple of images because this collection is AMAZING!? Though, I have to say, I love the textural qualities the most as shown through the illustrations…

  21. jennine says:

    oooh 90s i remember all those years quite well… what a time. actually it was quite ordinary.
    actually, i just got around to watching ‘my so-called life’ as it was on the air, the year i moved out on my own and didn’t have a tv, or time to watch anything with regularity. it’s a great show, and was sad it only went for one season.

  22. teen kitten says:

    Thanks so much for clearing up the anastase/marro dungeon shoe collab thing, knowing that makes it 100% easier to stalk the internet for them!
    Also, this collection! I am such a sucker for a sophisticated 90s look.

  23. Valentine says:

    Not fan of the final look but loving the inspiration
    http://valentineavoh.blogspot.com/
    -the life of a belgian stylist-

  24. Isabel says:

    Sweet grunge collection, and I really appreciate the Hole lyrics in the first pic. <3

  25. Linda says:

    Oh my god, I watched The Craft for the first time last month and I am still in love with the movie. It fills me up with joy to see a collection inspired by it.

  26. Daphné says:

    I love this collection! I was still pretty small when the grunge trend started, but I can’t help myself and love it.

  27. oh wow, the craft was such a big deal for me, even though i was only in year five!! me and my group of friends were SO obsessed with it, seances and ouija boards became the cool thing haha.
    love the collection, i think it captures that 90s grunge look really well.
    http://thelusciousmix.blogspot.com/
    p.s i think i am in love with whoever that male actor is with clare danes….amazing.
    p.p.s best scene with the song olympia in stealing beauty, liv tyler goes nuts!

  28. masha says:

    wonderful collection. and we can see the real 90’s inspiration!
    http://leblogdemasha.blogspot.com/

  29. Dani says:

    lovely lovely red boots 🙂
    and the backpacks are pretty neat, too.

  30. Zinzi says:

    WOW. i totally had henna red hair like claire danes and a big silver cuff like i saw fairuza balk wearing in a magazine.. yeah. this brings me way back — thanks susie, as always!

  31. dreamy says:

    wow what a great collection! she’s clearly a graduate with a great accessories eye too considering how perfect those little rucksacks, sunglasses and ponyskin shoes were.

  32. these shoes are fantastic!
    * _ *

  33. Laumika says:

    I really hope she follows the same line in the future.

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