I generally don't like talking about student shows that I haven't seen in person but as soon as I got the mahussive zip file through this morning from the LCF BA show, things were jumping out at me screaming "Must Share With The World!" so here is a mammoth round-up that of course will need revisiting once I am back in London.  I've yet to see a comprehensive list of images from the CSM BA show yet but as it stands, I'm pretty impressed with the LCF BA turnout here… perhaps it is the vivid backstage imagery all courtesy of Morgan O'Donovan) and the added bonus of most of the students having a Showtime profile on the LCF site which gives further insight so I'm not going to even try and pass judgement on the LCF vs. CSM weigh up…

I'm going to let the graduates themselves do the talking seeing as they so helpfully provide their own-worded blurbs…

Karishma Shahina – Winner of the Fashion Textiles award, Karishma took on the oft-used theme of India which could so easily have tread some very cliched ground but instead, her uniquely hand dyed textiles as well as her oversized silhouettes and unexpected colour combinations evoked a 'spirit' of India rather than raid the country's traditional dress.

"The collection draws inspiration and elements from the multiple layers of India's vibrant culture that continuously creates colourful, vivid and eclectic experiences for the onlooker. The colours are picked from traditional painting of Indian Gods, and recreated through natural methods of dyeing. The designs combine a fusion of two extremes, making the collection experimental and unconventional, while being hinged on modern functionality. This collection gives us a peek in the incredible 'Atulya' Indian Experience."

LCF BA 2010 01 Karishma Shahani Web-2395

LCF BA 2010 01 Karishma Shahani Web-2398

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Yelena Loguiiko – Yelena took home the Design & Technology award with her collection full of pastel touchable pieces – teddy bear textures mixed up with sleek lines.

"Cubist geometry is given an eclectic twist in Yelena Loguiiko's AW10-11 collection as Cubism-inspired forms mingle with elements of Eastern European folklore,primary traditional Latvian dresses,creating a classical yet futuristic look.Originally inspired by Picasso's "Portrait of a Woman after Cranach the Younger" the collection concentrates on the notions of femininity and female beauty artistically emphasising characteristic elements of the body without overpowering its natural features."

LCF BA 2010 08 Yelena Loguikko Web-2541

LCF BA 2010 08 Yelena Loguikko Web-2548

LCF BA 2010 08 Yelena Loguikko Web-2558

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Yuco Kamiyama – A sort of deluxe take on 'pauper's dressing where textiles are deliberately well-worn and distressed looking and the palette is kept fairly neutral which makes for a very different kind of unisex attire.

"A unisex collection with knitwear and woven garments, inspired by a children novel written by Michael Ende, "Momo".  The main idea is ‚ÄòA GIRL IN A MEN‚ÄôS JACKET‚Äô, which came from the style of Momo, a orphan girl in the novel, who wears oversized tatty patched men‚Äôs jacket. I love the relaxed feeling of the style as well as the genderless look and the youthfulness."

LCF BA 2010 016 Yuco Kamiyama Web-2785

LCF BA 2010 016 Yuco Kamiyama Web-2803

LCF BA 2010 016 Yuco Kamiyama Web-2811


Stephanie Goynes – I see flecks of Cooperative Designs in Goynes' knits.  I haven't tired of Aztec motifing just yet, especially when they're in Opal Fruits colours…

"With prompt technical understanding and a logical and mathematical approach to the mechanics of Knitwear, I quickly became involved with the specialism. Delighting in acting on a creative and imaginative response to a theme and the enjoyment of exploring a topic, I am able to create a personal interpretation complemented by eager experimentation. Drive for an outcome is succeeded through thorough exploration of techniques."

LCF BA 2010 013 Steph Goynes Web-2698

LCF BA 2010 013 Steph Goynes Web-2704


Kai Yeung Yau – Guess it goes without saying that I'm of course intrigued by Kai Yeung Yau's research and interpretation of Hong Kong identity of the 60s and 70s, a period which my parents have told me a great deal about.  The final manifestation though is a surprising one but I do spy a familiar flask/oil table cloth pattern… seen in the sewing video that Kai Yeung Yau uploaded.

"'A Woman Who Carried Three Generations', is a revolution, defining the identity of Hong Kong in fashion. Its inspiration came from the lifestyle of housewives during the age of old Hong Kong in 1960s and 1970s.  This collection, thus, aimed to pay a sincere tribute to contributions by last generation and to outline Hong Kong contemporary pop culture."

LCF BA 2010 015 Kai Yeung Yau Web-2761

LCF BA 2010 015 Kai Yeung Yau Web-2763 LCF BA 2010 015 Kai Yeung Yau Web-2783

Natalie Rae Richardson – The message is plain to see on the slogan tee but I'm more excited by the embroidery work that Natalie has done to evoke textures of animals, reminding me of old cross-stitch and tapestry pillow sets that I bought but never completed.

"This exciting debut collection fuses bold embroidery and a natural colour palette with casual American 1980s silhouettes.  Inspired by the anthropomorphic artwork of artist Ryan Berkeley, each of the 6 looks invokes the spirit of well-shod wildlife from Berekely's animal portraiture. Using a different animal from 6 of Berkeley's illustrations, Natalie has brought together elements of nature photography, detail from Victorian period animal illustrations as well as experimental painting techniques."

LCF BA 2010 021 Natalie Rae Web-2923

LCF BA 2010 021 Natalie Rae Web-2911

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Ki Ching Cheung and Ka Wai Lo – I'm not sure if it counts as cheating when you're working as a student partnership but the duo have come up with a a hybrid of polar-grizzly bear.  I'm now imagining some very disturbing animal mating that involves two species of bear.  Another collection that gets animal without using animal fur…

"While the ice cap is disappearing, the Polar bears and others have to say good bye to North Pole, their instinct drive them to mate with other species in order to evolve to survive, results the birth of Polar-grizzly bear.  This collection is inspired by the Polar bear, hybrid, Climate Change and the Eskimo skin clothing.  The persistent rise in temperature draws the large animal easier to extinct, mating with other species to born new species are another chances to get their descendant survive."

LCF BA 2010 022 Ki Ching Cheung & Ka WAi Lo Web-2939

LCF BA 2010 022 Ki Ching Cheung & Ka WAi Lo Web-2947

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Joanna Prichard – The jewellery really strengthens this collection.  

"The inspiration for the pieces is drawn from the works of mid twentieth century American artists and sculptors, combined with the relaxed silhouettes of the 1970s and 1980s. The work of Abstract Expressionists Robert Motherwell and Clyfford Still has dictated the colour palette of whites and creams contrasting with black, paired with dusky blue, camel and rust brown. The jewellery is strong and imposing in form whilst the colour of the copper compliments and enhances the palette used for the garments."

LCF BA 2010 011 Joanna Prichard Web-2660

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Ryo Himuro – I love that there's a hybrid of cultures going on here where symbols are mixed up into mish-mash jewellery.

"Heavy decorated accessories is appeared as a chief of the ethnic people when the ceremonial occasion.  The reason why he used vivid code and producing accessories instead of using historical trimming or ethnic beading is to attempt giving a bright and clean impression to people by flushing colour.  The shape of accessories are found from different sources, some heart and rings are from disentanglement puzzle, big heart shape is from wedding decorations, some rings are from belt buckles, and some small rings are from an item of mountain climbing."

LCF BA 2010 026 Ryo Himuro Web-3045

LCF BA 2010 026 Ryo Himuro Web-3069

These people don't have quotes as they don't have show time profiles but will need further investigation!

Jennifer Ruth Low – I love the way the different straps with chains and interlockings come together in the middle to pull the garment in.  Sort of like a multi-way belt.

LCF BA 2010 014 Jennifer Ruth Low Web-2736

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Vilvin Sabu – Vilvin won the Best Use of Embellishment award with a collection of gradiated fringing that reminds me a little of Scott Ramsay Kyle's work.  I also love the heavy linen or hessian fabrics that the fringing is embroidered onto.

LCF BA 2010 024 Vilvin Sabu Web-2990

LCF BA 2010 024 Vilvin Sabu Web-3013

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Flett Bertram – This shouldn't work – heavy taffeta type fabrics and what to look to be curtain tie-back tassels spell out late 19th century wedding cake dresses… but somehow with the muted teal and black, the sheer AMOUNT of tassels and the cut-outs of the dresses… ack… it's not use, I'm into the 21st century version of these wedding cake dresses.

LCF BA 2010 018 Flett Bertram Web-2848

LCF BA 2010 018 Flett Bertram Web-2855

LCF BA 2010 018 Flett Bertram Web-2861

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Xiao Li – I NEED to get in touch with this girl straight away… where to begin…rainbow beading, giant stitches, denim, camel leather and chunky knits… it's all going on but seamlessly so.  And why is a rabbit   Willy Coyote (clearly I didn't watch enough cartoons… !) pondering E=MC2… just WHY?  Questions need to be answered…

LCF BA 2010 010 Xiao Li Web-2605

LCF BA 2010 010 Xiao Li Web-2612

LCF BA 2010 010 Xiao Li Web-2620

LCF BA 2010 010 Xiao Li Web-2625

(All backstage photos by Morgan O'Donovan.  All other images from Showtime, Playground or Isabelle OC)

Comments (24)

  1. eliza says:

    love Kai Yeung Yau and Xiao Li!! amazing..indeed, thanks for sharing 🙂

  2. Becca says:

    SO many amazing pieces! I like the fuzzy hats / vests, it looks like alpaca, but it’s hard to tell.

  3. rena says:

    Thank you so much for sharing this beautiful pics! 🙂

  4. The Yuco Kamiyama coats are so beautiful.. I love the rainbow speckles and herring bone chevrons, and the way they look like blankets. Horse blankets even, but I love.

  5. Rachel Lynne says:

    what a crazy collection! so unique and creative 🙂 I love that fur is murder shirt, reminds me of Sex and the City movie, and that turquoise chain/heart necklace is amazing

  6. Nicola says:

    Xiao Li seems to have ripped off elements from Romance Was Born’s collection from last season. It’s a little too close for comfort.

  7. Naomi says:

    Wow lots of great pictures, i really like the oversized cardi! 😀

  8. wow, this post is like the longest ever! Thanks for that Susie. I loved the Yuco Kamiyama collection, the nude colours and the silhouettes. See some other great designs there too. Loved the jewellery and the details.

  9. I love these beautiful and amazing pics!
    Thank you for sharing!

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  11. Kitsune says:

    its not a rabbit, its Willy Coyote.

  12. commodestyle says:

    Wow,your post is amazing!
    thank you for sharing your discovery…

  13. Valentine says:

    My favorites are Yelena Loguiiko and Joanna Prichard…
    Very nice work… I hope that people will put CSM and LCF on the same level as those work are fantastic…

  14. Karoline says:

    Thank you for sharing these. Very interesting.

  15. Lyrebirdgully says:

    wow – a great show, full of interest. I especially loved the Cheung/Lo pieces because of the fascinating array of alternatives to a standard coat. And, hey, what about those middle-aged models? such a breath of fresh air…long overdue in what is now the 11th year of the 21st century. It so takes a new generation to show the older generation how things should be done..

  16. thank you for the designer snippets! wish i was there this year.
    xx-LJ from SOS!

  17. OOh I love a lot of those pieces! That show looks really really interesting

  18. masha says:

    all the collections are great and so inspired!!! they’re very talented!!

  19. thanks bubble post my collection image on her blog and get some question with it .
    xiao li

  20. Sophia says:

    Freaking woooooooooooow. These designs are outrageously amazing.

  21. dreamy says:

    good grief. so many designs to get excited about!!

  22. louis says:

    WOW,the models are very pretty!Thanks for sharing!

  23. Tout Nouveau says:

    Natalie Rae Richardson and Yuco Kamiyama’s collections are now available at http://www.toutnouveau.co.uk incredible designers who deserve our support!

  24. It’s a shame that very little empirical evidence is known on this question. I’ve been working on some experiments, but need to finish up those working papers with the results.

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