Following a post that's all about the new, the fresh, the unknown, I thought I'd contrast with a post about a label that's semi-established yet still relatively unknown perhaps. Du≈°an Paunovic is the Belgrade-born designer behind the label Du≈°an which has been established since 1999. It's the sort of label that won't have made a huge fuss and shout because it quietly sells and has secured stockists worldwide including Liberty in London, Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and Joseph in Paris. I suspect though, that Du≈°an is hidden in amongst that less-frequented section of Liberty where ahem… clothes for the more 'mature' customer are stocked…. loose fitting pieces by Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and other brands that do 'timeless' very well.
Broken down on the rails, I suppose Du≈°an fits that slightly more 'mature' bill but then I take a look at his latest A/W 10-11 collection, distinctly styled by Sybille Walter and Samuel Drira of Encens magazine and see that once again, striking silhouttes are created, not by overly fussy detailing but by solid and strong lines.
This therefore follows very nicely on from my thoughts on Anne Marie Beretta and Christophe Lemaire (own label, NOT his work for Lacoste… quite intrigued by what he will do at Hermes…). Like Lemaire, Du≈°an is eager to exploit the qualities of the fine fabrics he chooses for his collections, allowing subtle technique and well-crafted fabrics to speak volumes. It's another question mark about the variable meanings of 'luxury', and designers like Du≈°an has never wavered from this maximal minimal aesthetic. I suppose fresh eyes will come to their work as we continually think and re-think the supposed onslaught of 'New Minimalism' within fashion….
Oh and if shaggy shearling, layers of coats and hoods is making beads of sweat roll down your forehead because it's hovering around the 30 degree mark (I see that both New York and London are hotting up…) then Du≈°an's S/S 10 collection is a slightly lighter respite, though no less covered up… because as wise Tommy from This is Naive advises… "Wear loose-fitting clothes. Don't strip off!" (I found it quite funny because that day she tweeted, I think I saw about twenty bright red backs from reckless sun worshippers…)