Drawing the Lines

Drawing the Lines

CC_2010_0049

If we make are to pull out that old chestnut cliche about female designers designing having a personal style that is concurrent and in tandem image to what they design – i.e. they design things that they themselves would primarily wear, then Vika Gazinskaya is another femme to add to a very long list indeed.  In fact, to most, Vika may be known for what she wears miles ahead of what she designs.  Get into the photo pit that is the Tuileries during Paris Fashion Week and street style photographers huddle around shrieking "Vika is here!" upon her arrival as she does make quite an entrance (evident by the image Google search of her name – I've pulled up one particularly stunning image shot by Citizen Couture).  Her preferred weapon of street style attack is her penchant for a simple and graphic line of silhouette, complimented by her distinctive hairstyle and make-up and a clarity of accessories. 

I've checked out her previous collections after finally getting the answer to the question of "What DOES Vika DO apart from looking incredibly awesome?" a few seasons ago.  However, it's her latest A/W 10-11 collection presented in Paris back in Feb and in Moscow in May, that has really caught my eye.  That simple and graphic line that she favours herself is most fervently present in the collection.  It's swooping in and around the hips accentuating and in some cases cartoonishly exaggerating proportions.  There's no getting away from the referential elements of Gazinskaya's work though – Crist√≥bal Balenciaga in particular seems to stick out (anybody excited about the Crist√≥bal Balenciaga exhibition opening in New York this November???). 

That said, if we're to add another strand to the prim n' proper and minimal stories that are flourishing thick and fast for A/W 10-11, and if there are a gazillion collections referencing the Helmut Lang of the 90s, then seeing inklings of the Balenciaga of yesteryear in Gazinskaya's work is no bad thing at all.  I especially like her point of view in the placements of volume on the body, as well as the proposition of silhouettes that most would regard as 'awkward'.  Then again, you put the ensemble on the designer herself and somehow you'll be convinced that a mid-calf flared out skirt with a long sleeved untucked top over it works.  She's also somehow reconfigured the tulip skirt for me by combining it with a pencil skirt shape and making it incredibly structured.  On the subject of outerwear which is in abundance here (especially worn as dresses…) It would be an oxymoron to be waxing lyrical about them whilst typing with fingers that are sweating into the keys but they are undeniably lovely. 

Vika Gazinskaya is currently stocked in colette and she will be taking over a window during couture week too so I'll definitely check it out in the flesh.  No doubt she'll be hopping around Paris making flash bulb waves but perhaps from next season, we'll be seeing more of her work being photographed too. 

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25 comments

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  1. Nadia

    2010-06-23 at 9:30 AM

    I am always excited to see photos of Vika on street style blogs. I find the silhouettes of her designs very organic. I particularly like the flared mid-calf length skirt. Do you know if her collection will be added to collete’s e-shop?

  2. lucinda

    2010-06-23 at 9:50 AM

    I’ve often admired Vika’s style on street-style blogs and never known she was a designer with an eponymous label. The textures of her clothes are very appealing – I’m not against designers playing with proportion and form so I quite like the shapes too.

  3. Clare

    2010-06-23 at 10:02 AM

    These are so, so stunning. Love her style as well.
    http://iliketweet.blogspot.com/
    x

  4. Nina

    2010-06-23 at 10:14 AM

    The garments are so smart and sophisticated!
    http://braids-and-bows.blogspot.com/

  5. Sarah Betty

    2010-06-23 at 10:34 AM

    I had never really heard of her before this, so I will def go and check out more of her work/style.
    Sarah Betty
    http://www.sarahbetty.co.uk

  6. Valentine

    2010-06-23 at 11:45 AM

    I love the clean and sharp lines of this collection!
    http://valentineavoh.blogspot.com/
    …..the diary of a fashion stylist…..

  7. Karen

    2010-06-23 at 12:04 PM

    just about the most perfect garments I have seen in a long time, and the little hats are delectable, so many references but in a unique translation – thanks xxx

  8. Naomi

    2010-06-23 at 12:07 PM
  9. Olive

    2010-06-23 at 12:10 PM

    I love the shape of those skirts!fantastic!

  10. I feel that it can be compared to what Alber Elbaz does at Lanvin, but it´s done in a more structured and military Рinspired way, with exaggerated forms. It´s soft and sharp and beautiful.

  11. glowingdoll

    2010-06-23 at 1:56 PM

    Those ponytail-holder headgear pieces are brilliant!

  12. Nina

    2010-06-23 at 2:15 PM

    The first picture is very beautiful. Cool clothes!
    http://watermelonfeet.blogspot.com

  13. FashionLifeCoach

    2010-06-23 at 2:37 PM

    Clean and honest. I really appreciate the reduced outfits with directional pattern cuts after the whole kitsch and overloaded fashion trends of the last seasons.

  14. shipgirl

    2010-06-23 at 3:20 PM

    These clothes are absolutely stunning, I love the simple minimalist feel that still guards a prominent creative edge. The dress in the 4th row is my absolute favorite, I love the swoop down her body!
    (Also I’m so glad someone else is excited for the Balenciaga exhibit – I go to college in Chicago and it’s things like this that have me itching to return home to NYC as soon as possible!!)
    http://shipgirl.wordpress.com

  15. FAB

    2010-06-23 at 4:06 PM

    Wonderful blogg! Have u checked chateaudecadence.com? Love FAB

  16. eliza

    2010-06-23 at 4:15 PM

    great post!! it’s all amazing but for some reason it’s that hat that really gets me…sooo amazing!

  17. Amy

    2010-06-23 at 4:18 PM

    WoW…they are more than just wonderful man….very sexy!!

  18. minnja

    2010-06-23 at 4:20 PM

    Great photos, I love them all!!!
    http://minnja.blogspot.com/

  19. Elena Vasilieva

    2010-06-23 at 8:27 PM

    Loved Vika’s designs, very straight forward and graphic. there is a mix of chic and clarity of silhouette. loved that her clothing is not overburdened with accessories and not over designed
    http://elenavasilieva.blogspot.com/

  20. gemma

    2010-06-24 at 10:50 AM

    always thaks for the good posting, love all cloths !

  21. Linda

    2010-06-26 at 2:47 AM

    these are almost revolutionary pieces

  22. Cool Outfits

    2010-07-01 at 10:12 AM
  23. yana

    2010-11-28 at 9:30 AM

    love –≤–∏–∫—É

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